Real low numbers for any A/T coupe. Your combination of mods may be working against each other.

1) stock air box w/k&n & Z-tube = proven mod
2) motordyne 5/16 = proven mod w/k&n & Z-tube
3) custom dual exhaust w/ dual magnaflow mufflers = possible loss?
4) topspeed headers = possible loss?
5) gordgee's 10 wire kit = proven mod (for most)
6) hi intake air temps = proven loss
7) hi coolant temps = proven loss
8) A/F should be lean with mods 3) & 4) - redyno for second opinion on A/F
9) TechnoSquare reflash ++

 

I love how every one is telling this guy to get a reflash, or change airboxes, or whatever, when we have no other point of reference for this dyno.

 

wtf is a technosquare reflash?

 

but how is it possible that headers and a dual exhaust could cause a loss??...if anything wouldnt they just show no gain?..and as far as the A/F i felt the same way..that i should be running lean but he ran it twice and both times it was the same..im thinking bout HFC so when i put those on ill probably need a tune..

 

Why not try another dyno at another spot if you have the money and see if your numbers are still low before you start changing your setup to be sure?

 

cause down here in south ****ing texas we only have one that i know of...

 

Your problem is understanding how the ECU works and the Dynojet numbers seem accurate to me for the weather conditions that you described. Without getting too technical (in layman's terms), The stock ECU has several fuel & timing maps and selects the one that it sees most appropriate for your application and realtime conditions. Higher temperatures, lower octane and non-aggresive driving habits lead to the more conservative maps being selected to avoid knock or conserve fuel. Higher octane fuels have a higher resistance to preignition. Breather mods usually throw off the parameters that the ECU wants to see from the sensors monitoring your engine conditions. If your ECU doesn't like the voltages it sees, it will select conservative maps to preserve your engine. In a nutshell, you need a piggy-back and a good tune to extract power out of almost any bolt on mod.

 

3rd is t best gear and pullls the hardest for some reason on all nissan 6 speeds the 4,5,6 gears are more cruisin on highway and lack the real punch if that doesnt work...start in 4th get up to 5 or 6 wat ever you have and down shift into 4 youll blow right past the govenor, ooo yea ONE HUGE THING!!! If you didnt have your seat belt on the car is governed thres a wiring harness under the driver seat that severly cuts the power if u dont have your seat belt on idk why nissan does that

 

i dont mean to steal ur thread but i have been looking around and cant find it, i was wondering what the "gordgee's 10 wire kit" actually is/does, because i have been reading about it but dont know what it is or does for the car, if anyone can explain or just message me about it so i dont take thread space that would be extremely helpfull, ty adhead of time, take care all

 

i got 234 stock on my 5at off a mustang dyno.

Something is wrong with ur car and the mods.

 

I'll go try it out on my way to the gym and let you know... Will post in an hour or so.

 

BS.

 

please do so......

 

Mustang dyno and Dyno Jet are two different types of dyno's, you can't compare them.



And the seatbelt thing is BS!