unichip vs. technosquare = who wins?
#1
11-04-2006, 11:40 PM
unichip vs. technosquare = who wins?
i've been debating for a while now and cant seem to make up my mind. i was wondering if those with experiences could help me decide.
I am n/a with a few mods: jwt pop charger w/ztube, UR pulleys, 5/16 motordyne spacer, strups headers, FI high flow cats, FI exhaust.
what does unichip offer that technosquare doesnt and vise-versa.
if price wasn't an option, which route would you guys go. which has more power gains.
PLEASE HELP
I am n/a with a few mods: jwt pop charger w/ztube, UR pulleys, 5/16 motordyne spacer, strups headers, FI high flow cats, FI exhaust.
what does unichip offer that technosquare doesnt and vise-versa.
if price wasn't an option, which route would you guys go. which has more power gains.
PLEASE HELP
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12-22-2006, 10:01 AM
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12-22-2006, 12:00 PM
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Remember that our ECU's are learning/adaptive machines. A piggyback like the Unichip/UTEC use offset values or a derivative of the ECU's instructions to the car. The tune establishes the offset values based on the conditions and state of the ECU at that time. Say you want 13.1:1 and the piggyback brings it there. Great! you drive away all smiles.
But the ECU has been programmed by its masters at the factory to have the car run at 14.5:1 for emissions and fuel economy regulations. So it senses 13.1:1 at the O2 sensor and guess what? It starts slowly leaning out the mix by reducing the injector duty cycle and basically cancels out your piggyback offset and tune.
That is why with motorcycle piggybacks, you disconnect the O2 sensors. If we could do this with cars, we would, but OBDII says no.
The above applies to closed-loop mode only. With the UTEC being active only at WOT or so (openloop), the above won't affect it. But to say that a piggyback is going to give you flat A/F ratios where you dial them across all throttle positions and RPM is false. Only a reflash can reprogram the brain to want more fuel and/or timing across all operating conditions.
It's expensive, but the best option is to do both. Get the TS reflash first to get the 7100 rev limit, 100% throttle at redline, timing bump, and get the fuel in the ballpark. That alone will be worth it, believe me. If you still want to blow more money, then get a UTEC or Unichip piggyback so you can play and tweak all day with the WOT openloop tune.
But the ECU has been programmed by its masters at the factory to have the car run at 14.5:1 for emissions and fuel economy regulations. So it senses 13.1:1 at the O2 sensor and guess what? It starts slowly leaning out the mix by reducing the injector duty cycle and basically cancels out your piggyback offset and tune.
That is why with motorcycle piggybacks, you disconnect the O2 sensors. If we could do this with cars, we would, but OBDII says no.The above applies to closed-loop mode only. With the UTEC being active only at WOT or so (openloop), the above won't affect it. But to say that a piggyback is going to give you flat A/F ratios where you dial them across all throttle positions and RPM is false. Only a reflash can reprogram the brain to want more fuel and/or timing across all operating conditions.
It's expensive, but the best option is to do both. Get the TS reflash first to get the 7100 rev limit, 100% throttle at redline, timing bump, and get the fuel in the ballpark. That alone will be worth it, believe me. If you still want to blow more money, then get a UTEC or Unichip piggyback so you can play and tweak all day with the WOT openloop tune.
Last edited by ballisticus; 12-22-2006 at 02:33 PM.
#7
12-23-2006, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ballisticus
Remember that our ECU's are learning/adaptive machines. A piggyback like the Unichip/UTEC use offset values or a derivative of the ECU's instructions to the car. The tune establishes the offset values based on the conditions and state of the ECU at that time. Say you want 13.1:1 and the piggyback brings it there. Great! you drive away all smiles.
But the ECU has been programmed by its masters at the factory to have the car run at 14.5:1 for emissions and fuel economy regulations. So it senses 13.1:1 at the O2 sensor and guess what? It starts slowly leaning out the mix by reducing the injector duty cycle and basically cancels out your piggyback offset and tune. That is why with motorcycle piggybacks, you disconnect the O2 sensors. If we could do this with cars, we would, but OBDII says no.
The above applies to closed-loop mode only. With the UTEC being active only at WOT or so (openloop), the above won't affect it. But to say that a piggyback is going to give you flat A/F ratios where you dial them across all throttle positions and RPM is false. Only a reflash can reprogram the brain to want more fuel and/or timing across all operating conditions.
It's expensive, but the best option is to do both. Get the TS reflash first to get the 7100 rev limit, 100% throttle at redline, timing bump, and get the fuel in the ballpark. That alone will be worth it, believe me. If you still want to blow more money, then get a UTEC or Unichip piggyback so you can play and tweak all day with the WOT openloop tune.
But the ECU has been programmed by its masters at the factory to have the car run at 14.5:1 for emissions and fuel economy regulations. So it senses 13.1:1 at the O2 sensor and guess what? It starts slowly leaning out the mix by reducing the injector duty cycle and basically cancels out your piggyback offset and tune.
That is why with motorcycle piggybacks, you disconnect the O2 sensors. If we could do this with cars, we would, but OBDII says no.The above applies to closed-loop mode only. With the UTEC being active only at WOT or so (openloop), the above won't affect it. But to say that a piggyback is going to give you flat A/F ratios where you dial them across all throttle positions and RPM is false. Only a reflash can reprogram the brain to want more fuel and/or timing across all operating conditions.
It's expensive, but the best option is to do both. Get the TS reflash first to get the 7100 rev limit, 100% throttle at redline, timing bump, and get the fuel in the ballpark. That alone will be worth it, believe me. If you still want to blow more money, then get a UTEC or Unichip piggyback so you can play and tweak all day with the WOT openloop tune.
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