Early 03 Sedan, Bought Hypertech, EARLY ECU GUYS, TAKE A LOOK
#106
#107
Last edited by MM_G3520; 11-13-2010 at 09:31 AM.
#108
BIG UPDATE:
I talked to Chris on the phone yesterday, and he told me that they are going to put the early ECU on the back burner. They said it would take 1-2 weeks to get it working. While the tune and calibration is already complete, they have to focus on new products, and the amount of time they have to invest to make this specific calibration click does not make sense for their business. He did say they will work on it from time to time, and they may release something come January or February, but right now this is no longer a priority.
This is what you guys told me a long time ago, but I stuck it out for about five months. I purchased the unit in early July in order to try and gain support for the early ECU, and this is the unfortunate outcome. I do not regret it, but I am a bit deflated. I wanted to take the car to the 1/4mi in a week or two, and this product would've helped me get close to my goal of a 13.9 second ET. I do not think the minor mods I did over the summer are going to push me from a 14.17 to a 13.99.
I was going to hold onto the unit and wait until February, etc., but I have a new plan after browsing the FS section for a bit. I am selling it in the classifieds for $350 shipped
Here is a link to my ad:
https://g35driver.com/forums/marketp...03-06-g35.html
I appreciate Hypertech's effort, and I appreciate all of the advice everyone gave me throughout the course of this experience.
Does anyone have any ideas for quick mods I can do before I venture to the 1/4mi?
I talked to Chris on the phone yesterday, and he told me that they are going to put the early ECU on the back burner. They said it would take 1-2 weeks to get it working. While the tune and calibration is already complete, they have to focus on new products, and the amount of time they have to invest to make this specific calibration click does not make sense for their business. He did say they will work on it from time to time, and they may release something come January or February, but right now this is no longer a priority.
This is what you guys told me a long time ago, but I stuck it out for about five months. I purchased the unit in early July in order to try and gain support for the early ECU, and this is the unfortunate outcome. I do not regret it, but I am a bit deflated. I wanted to take the car to the 1/4mi in a week or two, and this product would've helped me get close to my goal of a 13.9 second ET. I do not think the minor mods I did over the summer are going to push me from a 14.17 to a 13.99.
I was going to hold onto the unit and wait until February, etc., but I have a new plan after browsing the FS section for a bit. I am selling it in the classifieds for $350 shipped
Here is a link to my ad:
https://g35driver.com/forums/marketp...03-06-g35.html
I appreciate Hypertech's effort, and I appreciate all of the advice everyone gave me throughout the course of this experience.
Does anyone have any ideas for quick mods I can do before I venture to the 1/4mi?
#110
#111
If the Hypertech box sells, I might just get an L-Spec flash for now (rev-limiter, throttle opening), and see what difference the higher redline makes at the strip. If I can hold it in third through the lights maybe I'll get my 13.99. I know DaveB says he can keep his in 3rd the whole way, but I seem to smack the rev limiter RIGHT before the line no matter what I try. When I do hit the limiter the time is actually slower and my trap is lower. Maybe my car is just WEIRD.
#112
You will definately benefit at the track with a higher redline. Although my ET wasn't much better (driver issues LOL) I got consistently better trap speeds meaning there is potential for better driving to lower my ET. The AAM flash is technosquare based... no point in strapping it on the dyno since it isn't a custom tune. Just get the flash and be done with it, heck just mail them your ECU, no point in driving there.
#113
If it were me, I'd stick with TS.
When I'm at the strip, I usually hit the limiter a fraction of a second after passing the finish line. If your tires are just fractionally shorter than mine, that could explain it. Also, if you're trapping over 100mph, then you could be running out of gear. Time to do the 3.54 gears and extend the limiter. The 3.54 gears are one of my favorite mod, especially that VLSD. The stability/traction control isn't as intrusive and actually allows a little spin assuming you're going straight.
When I'm at the strip, I usually hit the limiter a fraction of a second after passing the finish line. If your tires are just fractionally shorter than mine, that could explain it. Also, if you're trapping over 100mph, then you could be running out of gear. Time to do the 3.54 gears and extend the limiter. The 3.54 gears are one of my favorite mod, especially that VLSD. The stability/traction control isn't as intrusive and actually allows a little spin assuming you're going straight.
#114
If it were me, I'd stick with TS.
When I'm at the strip, I usually hit the limiter a fraction of a second after passing the finish line. If your tires are just fractionally shorter than mine, that could explain it. Also, if you're trapping over 100mph, then you could be running out of gear. Time to do the 3.54 gears and extend the limiter. The 3.54 gears are one of my favorite mod, especially that VLSD. The stability/traction control isn't as intrusive and actually allows a little spin assuming you're going straight.
When I'm at the strip, I usually hit the limiter a fraction of a second after passing the finish line. If your tires are just fractionally shorter than mine, that could explain it. Also, if you're trapping over 100mph, then you could be running out of gear. Time to do the 3.54 gears and extend the limiter. The 3.54 gears are one of my favorite mod, especially that VLSD. The stability/traction control isn't as intrusive and actually allows a little spin assuming you're going straight.
If you get the Transgo VB kit then you'll cut off .2 sec from your 1/4 mile no problem. Maybe even .3
I'm not a fan of the TS just for the fact that its a single flash and cost more than I paid for the piggy back and tune combined. I'm sure its great and extending the rev-limit is the only benefit that I would consider it for. However, a Greddy eManage Ultimate will allow you to extend the rev-limit and adjust/change tune whenver you want as well.
#115
If it were me, I'd stick with TS.
When I'm at the strip, I usually hit the limiter a fraction of a second after passing the finish line. If your tires are just fractionally shorter than mine, that could explain it. Also, if you're trapping over 100mph, then you could be running out of gear. Time to do the 3.54 gears and extend the limiter. The 3.54 gears are one of my favorite mod, especially that VLSD. The stability/traction control isn't as intrusive and actually allows a little spin assuming you're going straight.
When I'm at the strip, I usually hit the limiter a fraction of a second after passing the finish line. If your tires are just fractionally shorter than mine, that could explain it. Also, if you're trapping over 100mph, then you could be running out of gear. Time to do the 3.54 gears and extend the limiter. The 3.54 gears are one of my favorite mod, especially that VLSD. The stability/traction control isn't as intrusive and actually allows a little spin assuming you're going straight.
You will definately benefit at the track with a higher redline. Although my ET wasn't much better (driver issues LOL) I got consistently better trap speeds meaning there is potential for better driving to lower my ET. The AAM flash is technosquare based... no point in strapping it on the dyno since it isn't a custom tune. Just get the flash and be done with it, heck just mail them your ECU, no point in driving there.
This is what every company has said so far. Just COST vs BENEFIT
I hard-wired up a Greddy eManage. With the ignition & injector harnesses you can tune it very well. I picked up 30 wtq and 20 HP from my tune @ UMS in Tempe, AZ. I thought it was very much worth the cost/time.
the 3.5 FD is definitely a worthwhile mod but you'll run through the gears a little quicker so you will def need a higher rev limit to compensate or else you'll be in 4th for a while.
If you get the Transgo VB kit then you'll cut off .2 sec from your 1/4 mile no problem. Maybe even .3
I'm not a fan of the TS just for the fact that its a single flash and cost more than I paid for the piggy back and tune combined. I'm sure its great and extending the rev-limit is the only benefit that I would consider it for. However, a Greddy eManage Ultimate will allow you to extend the rev-limit and adjust/change tune whenver you want as well.
I hard-wired up a Greddy eManage. With the ignition & injector harnesses you can tune it very well. I picked up 30 wtq and 20 HP from my tune @ UMS in Tempe, AZ. I thought it was very much worth the cost/time.
the 3.5 FD is definitely a worthwhile mod but you'll run through the gears a little quicker so you will def need a higher rev limit to compensate or else you'll be in 4th for a while.
If you get the Transgo VB kit then you'll cut off .2 sec from your 1/4 mile no problem. Maybe even .3
I'm not a fan of the TS just for the fact that its a single flash and cost more than I paid for the piggy back and tune combined. I'm sure its great and extending the rev-limit is the only benefit that I would consider it for. However, a Greddy eManage Ultimate will allow you to extend the rev-limit and adjust/change tune whenver you want as well.
I think I want to do the following:
-Tune/flash
-Transgo
-New FD, most likely a 3.5
I will do the tune/flash as early as next week, and then I'll do the 3.5 soon after. The VB will take some research for a good shop and reasonable prices. However, your comments about the Greddy unit might change my plans. I'll shoot you a PM.
#116
Transgo really isn't all that difficult. $215 + shipping + 8 quarts of Matic-S @ $9/qt = $287.
Really can be done easy by any transmission shop if you aren't willing to give it a shot yourself.
I'd help ya, but its a long drive for you to make it out here. I've installed it on 4 cars now.
Really can be done easy by any transmission shop if you aren't willing to give it a shot yourself.
I'd help ya, but its a long drive for you to make it out here. I've installed it on 4 cars now.
#117
Transgo really isn't all that difficult. $215 + shipping + 8 quarts of Matic-S @ $9/qt = $287.
Really can be done easy by any transmission shop if you aren't willing to give it a shot yourself.
I'd help ya, but its a long drive for you to make it out here. I've installed it on 4 cars now.
Really can be done easy by any transmission shop if you aren't willing to give it a shot yourself.
I'd help ya, but its a long drive for you to make it out here. I've installed it on 4 cars now.
EDIT: I've been reading up on eManage. It seems that the factory ECU has a few maps, let's say map A, B, C, and eManage only "tunes" whatever map is being used while the car is on the dyno. eManage doesn't stop the ECU from changing maps when conditions change because the way it "tunes" is by manipulating the signals going to the ECU to trick it into believing there is a different condition. The ECU can still switch a map, and then when that happens, one is **** out of luck. This can be a ticking time bomb, as some like to call it, for F/I vehicles, and it's sort of dissuaded me from eManage.
Am I wrong in my findings? I would rather ask someone who has experience than just assume based off of what I've read on the forums.
Also, does anyone know if UTEC works for the early ECU?
Last edited by MM_G3520; 11-15-2010 at 04:25 AM.
#118
You're not "wrong" but your understandings are not accurate.
When the car is in "closed loop" It runs off the stock maps. There is a short term map, and a long term map. Both can adjust and will adjust to the engine and the driving style as well as other factors. When the vehicle is in closed loop the car will not use a piggy back system, such as the EMU. Even when it does adjust the short term map the long term map sees what is going on and will over-write the short term map at times. This is the reason people worry and its normally for people that are BOOSTED.
When the car is in "open loop" it will run off the EMU or whatever piggy back system you have set up. This is typically when you are 80% throttle or higher. This is when you actually use the power and the reason for the tune. The Ultimate is much better for FI cars for several reasons.
The UTEC will work for the early ECU but you will still need to wire it up to the ECU and it will take a lot of time. I've read that there is a wiring harness created by some of the Maxima guys who's ECU has the same pin-out. It is a good management program and has better capabilities for tuning and has some control in CLOSED LOOP from what I understand.
When the car is in "closed loop" It runs off the stock maps. There is a short term map, and a long term map. Both can adjust and will adjust to the engine and the driving style as well as other factors. When the vehicle is in closed loop the car will not use a piggy back system, such as the EMU. Even when it does adjust the short term map the long term map sees what is going on and will over-write the short term map at times. This is the reason people worry and its normally for people that are BOOSTED.
When the car is in "open loop" it will run off the EMU or whatever piggy back system you have set up. This is typically when you are 80% throttle or higher. This is when you actually use the power and the reason for the tune. The Ultimate is much better for FI cars for several reasons.
The UTEC will work for the early ECU but you will still need to wire it up to the ECU and it will take a lot of time. I've read that there is a wiring harness created by some of the Maxima guys who's ECU has the same pin-out. It is a good management program and has better capabilities for tuning and has some control in CLOSED LOOP from what I understand.
#119
You're not "wrong" but your understandings are not accurate.
When the car is in "closed loop" It runs off the stock maps. There is a short term map, and a long term map. Both can adjust and will adjust to the engine and the driving style as well as other factors. When the vehicle is in closed loop the car will not use a piggy back system, such as the EMU. Even when it does adjust the short term map the long term map sees what is going on and will over-write the short term map at times. This is the reason people worry and its normally for people that are BOOSTED.
When the car is in "open loop" it will run off the EMU or whatever piggy back system you have set up. This is typically when you are 80% throttle or higher. This is when you actually use the power and the reason for the tune. The Ultimate is much better for FI cars for several reasons.
The UTEC will work for the early ECU but you will still need to wire it up to the ECU and it will take a lot of time. I've read that there is a wiring harness created by some of the Maxima guys who's ECU has the same pin-out. It is a good management program and has better capabilities for tuning and has some control in CLOSED LOOP from what I understand.
When the car is in "closed loop" It runs off the stock maps. There is a short term map, and a long term map. Both can adjust and will adjust to the engine and the driving style as well as other factors. When the vehicle is in closed loop the car will not use a piggy back system, such as the EMU. Even when it does adjust the short term map the long term map sees what is going on and will over-write the short term map at times. This is the reason people worry and its normally for people that are BOOSTED.
When the car is in "open loop" it will run off the EMU or whatever piggy back system you have set up. This is typically when you are 80% throttle or higher. This is when you actually use the power and the reason for the tune. The Ultimate is much better for FI cars for several reasons.
The UTEC will work for the early ECU but you will still need to wire it up to the ECU and it will take a lot of time. I've read that there is a wiring harness created by some of the Maxima guys who's ECU has the same pin-out. It is a good management program and has better capabilities for tuning and has some control in CLOSED LOOP from what I understand.
#120
The Emanage ultimate only adds/subtracts from the stock ECU signals irregardless of whether it's closed or open loop. You also have to understand even in open loop, the ECU still makes plenty of compensations that thse basic piggypacks cannot overcome.
The only piggy which can take complete fueling and timing control in open loop is UTEC. It doesn't matter what the stock ECU does in open loop -- this is why I started with a UTEC when I went FI.
Only other option for complete control is a full standalone.
But since you're not boosted, it doesn't really matter.
The only piggy which can take complete fueling and timing control in open loop is UTEC. It doesn't matter what the stock ECU does in open loop -- this is why I started with a UTEC when I went FI.
Only other option for complete control is a full standalone.
But since you're not boosted, it doesn't really matter.