plz help!

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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 07:48 PM
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rob g35's Avatar
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plz help!

guys after i install all bolt ons and tuned my car i had after a serious problem.Im 5at and its that when i only drive the car on high rpms and i want to stop immediately to stop the car with the use of downshifting triptronic reaching first gear the rpm goes down to zero and the car turns off! i took it to the dealer who tuned my car again he re tuned again and made reflash again for the ecu but nothin changed and he just didnt know the issue! does anybody have any idea from what it could be? i need ur help guys plz
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:30 PM
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This is common. With the right bolt ons you can open a little more then enough flow in and out of your engine. My car has done that and also after cranking the car when its already warmed up it will turn right back off. I turned up the idle and solved the problem. If you don't know how, take it to the nearest performance shop and let them do it.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ROD350GT
This is common. With the right bolt ons you can open a little more then enough flow in and out of your engine. My car has done that and also after cranking the car when its already warmed up it will turn right back off. I turned up the idle and solved the problem. If you don't know how, take it to the nearest performance shop and let them do it.
but they also said its not the idle issue cuz they turned it up to what it should be
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:36 PM
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This is common. With the right bolt ons you can open a little more then enough flow in and out of your engine. My car has done that and also after cranking the car when its already warmed up it will turn right back off. I turned up the idle and solved the problem. If you don't know how take it to the nearest performance shop and let them do it. This is common
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:38 PM
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Sorry I did'n mean to post twice. Anyways, it needs to be higher then the factory setting. I have mine around 700-800
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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did you just have the tuner ride with you so you could duplicate the issue? unless you are running cams, i wouldnt think up'n the idle should be necessary unless they really tweaked your timing/fuel alot.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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ok thanks a lot bro i will tell that
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by the_coupe
did you just have the tuner ride with you so you could duplicate the issue? unless you are running cams, i wouldnt think up'n the idle should be necessary unless they really tweaked your timing/fuel alot.
yes im running cams
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:48 PM
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I have had my car for a min. I had the same bolt on set up on my car and did a VQ35de motor swap to another VQ35de and with the bolt ons that I have it caused the same effect. Up the idle a little more then stock setting and you will be good. Stock is like what 500rpm's so go to 700-800rpm's and try it. It takes 5min.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ROD350GT
I have had my car for a min. I had the same bolt on set up on my car and did a VQ35de motor swap to another VQ35de and with the bolt ons that I have it caused the same effect. Up the idle a little more then stock setting and you will be good. Stock is like what 500rpm's so go to 700-800rpm's and try it. It takes 5min.
are u running cams?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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No, my friend does. He had to do the same thing. I have a custom exhaust. Its just about strait pipes, witch caused the idle to change.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:59 PM
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ok, well then yeah....if everything else looks good as far as tune, you have no vacuum leaks and whatnot....bump the base idle up some. factory spec idle isnt gonna cut it if you're runnin cams.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 09:12 PM
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so im gonna raise up the idle and see what happens and ill respond after thanks guys
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:49 PM
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guys my idle was 750 and i raised it till 800 but still didnt work same problem!
 
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