My preferences for G35 and 350Z dynos include...

1) Dyno ATs in 3rd gear and MTs in 5th when possible.
2) Coolant temperature between 185F & 190F at the start of each pull.
3) IAT (Intake air temperatures) no more than 10F to 20F above ambient temperature.
4) Engine run for a minimum of 5 minutes at 1/4 load to bring engine oil, transmission oil and differential lubricant up to temperature. Engine oil temp should ideally be 185F to 200F.
5) Test runs for each vehicle should be performed in the same gear.
6) For dyno days, each car shall undergo the same number of dyno runs. MT pulls should be from 1500 rpm and ending 100 rpm below the vehicle’s rev limiter. To prevent downshifting, most ATs should be dynoed from 3600 rpm to 100 rpm below redline.
7) Tire pressure should be around 30psi for pulls done on inertia roller dynos.
8) Dynojet operators should follow Dynojet's operating procedure and roll-in and re-strap the car before dynoing for record.
9) All results should be SAE corrected and include ambient temperature, humidity, and barometic pressure.

 

thanks daveo.........i will run in 3rd and 4th gear next time for a comparison but dont have anyway to measure the coolant temp or the air inlet temp at the shop with the dynojet.......i will check with the dynopak shop and see if they can measure these parameters........

 

Good info...^That's a bummer that bolt-on mods don't net G35's much rwhp. It sounds like the Nissan Engineers truly optimized the NA 3.5L Motor and as ashadow said "squeezed" every bit out of it w/o FI.

This reminds me of the '00-03 Dinan M5 early stage bolt-ons where they charged $5-7k only offer net peak gains of 9 rwhp. For them to squeeze real rwhp out of the motor and still kee p it NA, they were charging $27k and it looks like some serious internal reworking was required.

http://www.dinanbmw.com/

 

I agree that the biggest bang for the buck gains is from FI... but I disagree that you can't get much rwhp out of bolt ons... There are many of us that have received more than 10-15hp. The pre '05s are rated 260 at the crank, if you use standard 20% driveline loss (for AT), that's 208 at the wheels. My last dyno with standard bolt ons (in sig) was 271 (dynapack). With CAI and Intake alone I did 245 on dynojet.

People will always debate on whether the money is worth it for bolts ons... As far as I'm concerned it has been.

 

i agree ocg35.........i have a +/- 20hp increase from stock (if stock is 215hp) overall even with the 102 degree dyno........thats about $100 for each incremental increase in horsepower........unfortunately i can't afford FI yet........so bolts on are the way to go for now.....also there are more to gain than just hp and torque for some of us from these mods ..........my car now sounds awesome! there is plenty to share with others and i have learned a bunch about this car and the inner workings........

i will run another dyno later this year with cooler temps and maybe on a dynopak and in 3rd gear to compare......still working on the ECU flash.......but it will have to wait a little while cause my rear tires are done at 14K!

 

Interesting. I guess my lifeless doggie door slushbox sedan didn't follow your rules... nor have many other AT G35s. A review of the torque, horsepower and mods published in our G35 Dyno Marathon Article (Winter 2005) shows many other G35s that didn't follow your rules. And yes I have looked at the dyno charts... over 200 of them in fact.

 

I stand corrected. I was just going off what the OP wrote. I haven't touched my wife car with a wrench, yet...

Which bolt-ons would you consider to be the best-bang-for-the-buck? If you know the approximate rwhp gains, that would be great too.

TIA,

John

 

The answer to your question is in my post that you responded to. I outlined what has worked for me.

As with most of us that mod, I'm not done...

 

I had my car dyno'd about a month ago in 92 degree weather and got a 231 WHP for just a AEM CAI and Stillen cat-back. I guess that is not too bad. However, I forgot to take some crap out of my trunk (mine and my girlfriend's rollerbaldes and my tool set - weighing about 35 lbs). Someone told me I could have got a better reading if I took that stuff out, but I'm not too sure.