I've never washed my wheels (or car) while hot, but that only applies to a complete moron who hoses down his wheels directly after driving and usually in one spot on the rotor.
Rotors are subjected to extreme heat and cold all the time during normal driving conditions. Think about winter driving.... the rotors get very hot while driving and going through a slushy puddle does not mean you have warped rotors.

Rotors should be able to cool themselves fairly quickly and should also be able to handle hot to cold to hot conditions without warping.

Other factors can also apply, like over torqued or unevenly torqued lugs, for example.

Either way, these rotors suck.

 

^ actually its not drivers fault mostly, im pretty careful of waiting and letting the brakes cool before i was and i dont use auto car wash, secondly the OEM rotors are known to warp quickly if you drive spirited, another thing could be overtightened lug nuts thats hard to help if you take it to a shp for balancing and such.
And cross drilled rotors do help the rotors stay cooler and disspitate heat better, therefore LESS chance of warping your rotors.

 

My first set were fine until I was sitting at a red light (with my foot on the brake) and I was hit from behind by a crack *****. Granted, that alone didn't warp my rotors but I have a strong feeling that slight damage was done and once a rotor is on it's way out of true, it just gets worse.

I brought the car in for repairs and they insisted on turning them rather than replace them as I explained in an earlier post.
I get the car back and all feels fine, and then my new wheels come.
I go to take my wheels off and the stupid tech at the dealership had used his impact gun, without torque sticks, to put my wheels on the car. It took a 1/2 drive breaker bar to get them loose. I tested one with my torque wrench and they were over 250lbs!
I feel that this did nothing but start the process of eventual warping again.

I agree with Kool and his comments above.... and I also insist that although a car wash can cause damage, there are other things that can cause it as well.

 

^ +1, iv decided that im definitely going with Stillen cross drilled(Unless someone else has other options/brands), now which pads to go with these as someone said that you need "right type" of pads with drilled rotors...

Thanks

 

drilled/slotted rotors are completely worthless now. go solid, forget the potential for stress fractures around drill points because you're buying drilled, rather than holes-cast rotors, and leave that extra mass in the rotor to dissipate heat.

get a better brake pad (porterfield comes to mind) and get a rotor with a better venting design. if you're worried about heat, get 2pc rotors and a bail of race wire.

 

StopTech Stage 2 setup FTMW!

 

My brakes started squeaking at 17K. I have been looking for aftermarket replacement pads (just turned my rotors this time) and my mechanic was unable to find the ones I wanted. When I get new rotors they will either be slotted or drilled but I HAVE to get better brake pads. I hate driving a nice car and people look at you funny when you stop cause you sound like crap. lol
Would yall recommend the ceramic pads or the regular ones?

 

ceramic is better for the rotors and very quiet but go out quicker than semi-mettalic, if i had the option i would go for the ceramic, but i only found semi-metallic for the S, from stillen and then there was one other company....

 

i don't think any aftermarket rotors are worth it unless you receive the rotors in a BBK...just buying rotors doesn't do anything except empty your wallet..it does look better if you have rims, but who cares! i'd rather spend my money elsewhere

 

True but if you have to replace your rotors cause they're warped and cant be turned anymore, then its better to get better aftermakert rotors and pads that will last longer,better and cheaper, then getting the oem replacments...

 

^^ i hear ya, but i'm not sure if aftermarket rotors technically last longer...in certain cases sure aftermarket products are supposed to be better than OEM but that's not always the case. I think aftermarket brake products don't necessarily last longer because IMO aftermarket part components are geared toward performance...you can't always have the best of all worlds...sometimes you have to sacrifice longevity in order to see better performance gains so i think it all depends...they're probably better in terms of cooling but i don't think you'll be stopping in a shorter distance with slotted or drilled rotors...