Weird Brake Rust

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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 08:54 AM
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princealyy's Avatar
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Weird Brake Rust

Hey Guys

Just had my rotors resurfaced under warranty, and noticed this weird rust line on the front rotors.

Anyone know if this is normal, if the dealer didnt install the pads correctly, etc.

Thanks
 
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 09:03 AM
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Normal. The pads don't reach down that far on the surface. If you were to leave your car outside in the rain and come back in a day or two, you will have surface rust. First time the pads sweep that area, its gone. Nothing to worry about as long as your pedal feels good.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 09:05 AM
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how many miles on your car.

Why did you have them resurfaced?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 11:35 AM
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I had to resurface it due to vibration in the brakes. It used to get rust and go away when i drove it, and it used to never have this line.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 11:50 AM
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^I thought Infiniti fixed their sh!tty brake rotors.

I guess not.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JOKER
^I thought Infiniti fixed their sh!tty brake rotors.

I guess not.
The number one reason for warped rotors are lug nuts tightened with too much torque or uneven torque.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 12:05 PM
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+1 Impacts shouldn't be used to tighten lug nuts.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 05:20 PM
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are you sure about that, cuz i can warp a set of rotors in about 3 miles if i want to.

i think the #1 cause is using ur brakes like a light switch. or heating them up way too much and then crunching down on the pedal.


what does lug nut torq have to do with it?


i just stand on the end of my tire iron after i put the nuts back on.
never had an issue with warped discs. cuz i know how not to melt my brakes.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by snowcrossmxz
are you sure about that, cuz i can warp a set of rotors in about 3 miles if i want to.

i think the #1 cause is using ur brakes like a light switch. or heating them up way too much and then crunching down on the pedal.


what does lug nut torq have to do with it?


i just stand on the end of my tire iron after i put the nuts back on.
never had an issue with warped discs. cuz i know how not to melt my brakes.
Heating them up isn't usually the problem...it's cooling them down. Getting them hot and then driving through a puddle or something to rapidly cool can be a cause. But Lug nuts are absolutely a huge culpret.

Often pulsations start after a tire has been changed and there is dirt, corrosion or rust on the inner surface of the replaced wheel. This can cause uneven clamping leading to rotor warping. This uneven clamping can also occur from improper tightening of lug nuts. For example, not tightening in the usually recommended two-step, criss-cross tightening technique, and using the improper torque (bolts, lug nets, etc. all use manufacturer-specified levels of torque.) A torque wrench must be used on modern wheels. Air impact wrenches will not torque down the nuts properly. If there is brake pulsating after changing a tire, loosen the nuts and re-torque as soon as possible and you may be able to prevent warping problems.
http://newcarbuyingguide.com/index.p...318/event=view
 
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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It's very common to have that happen as shown in the pic. It's even more prone to happen if you live in a cooler and damper area like close to the coast. It bugs me too but about 6 months ago I used some water/clr solution with an SOS pad and a toothbrush to clean it off. It takes a bit of time but i still haven't had to do it again.

You'll still see the rust line as the brakes dont go down that far, but they won't be orange, it will be a grayish/black and much less noticable.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 11:49 AM
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One last thing to check is pad deposits. Getting your rotors very hot and then stopping with the pads in one spot will leave melted pad material on the rotor. You can actually see and feel the deposits on the rotor. It will feel just like a warped rotor when you apply the brakes.

It can usually be fixed easily by doing several hard applications of the brakes to heat them up, then cruise for a few minutes without stopping until the rotors cool off. This will usually get rid of the deposits by melting and scouring them off.

You can help prevent this by not leaving your pads in one spot when your rotors are very hot. Slow to a near stop and then creep slowly forward so the pads don't rest in one spot.

Here is a good read on the subject:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...akedisk.shtml#
 
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