Recently my brakes have started to squeal because i'm at 56K i'm assuming that the brakes need to be changed for the first time. I have a couple questions I wanted to ask.

By the way, my car is a 2007 G35 Sport Sedan

1. How much would a brake job cost from the dealership with both front and rear brakes?

2. I know it's easy to change your own brakes but I wanted to know if there was a tutorial out there. I found a video on youtube but it was for the 1st generation G35s. If I do decide to change my own brakes how do I know if the routers need to be replaced/shaved down?

Thanks.

 

check the Tech section 'DIY & FAQ'
..there's really not much difference in 1st 2nd gen 'how to'

there are specs on rotors for thickness & runout, but you need equipment to check.
Is there a heavy lip around the edge?
The wear spec is so tight that there's no point considering turning them; especially at 56k

At 56k chances are good that they need to be replace.
If it was my car, I'd change them for sure.

 

I wish you asked this a week ago. I just went through replacing my rear pads and would have been happy to snap pics along the way.
If you have ever done pads before, this will be a breeze. This is by far one of the easiest brake jobs I have had to do... no funky spring clips or whacko star shaped bolt heads. Two Caliper bolts and pads pop right out.

As for the dealer....
I had the car in for service and they told me my rears were running low. I asked how much and they said $400-$600.
I said "Pound Sand"

I went home, ordered some Bendix Ceramic pads off of Amazon for $35- and a week later, they were on. Do them yourself... it's not difficult.

 

^ what kind of mileage did you get out of the rears?

 

34K... still had a little life left, but I like to get them done before there's any chance for metal on metal.
The Caliper piston side (inside pad) was close to being gone, but the outside pads still had quiet a bit of life left

 

^ Wear should be symmetric, was the difference enough to think the calipers where applying equal force to both pads? These are usually a simple design so difficult to happen, but perhaps binding on the slider? Just an FYI I guess, $35 for 34k is a bargain!!

 

I know... I know. That's sorta why I mentioned it.
There is absolutely no binding or resistance in the slides. Calipers are in great shape.
I dunno, just thought it was worth mentioning.

The Bendix pads are working out really well. They'll do nicely until I decide on what upgrading route I decide to take in terms of brakes.
$35- was a bargain for sure.

 

Could also be from material variation in the brake pad. I work in the manufacturing industry and I can affirm our products are repeatible to a nats a**. lol

 

So I decided that I'll attempt my first brake job. Any suggestions on where I can purchase new brake pads and routers? Also, if anyone has a tool list on what I need to have when I try that would be great. Thanks for the answers so far.

 

If the rotors are not warped, have not been turned to minimum specs and do not have grooves from metal on metal (overworn pads), you won't need to replace them.
New pads can be found almost anywhere. Prices will vary from brand to brand, and from material used, IE. Semi-Metalic, Ceramic, etc.

Wanna save some dough and get a decent set of pads, this is what I went with.

Fresh out of school, I worked in a shop that sold Bendix along with other brands. I've used them on some of my cars ever since. They stop well enough for a daily driver.
The nice thing about these is when you receive them, send Bendix the enclosed form and a copy of your receipt. The next time you buy the same pads, send Bendix the same form and they pay you back.... lifetime pad warranty for as long as you own your car.
They last quite a while, but it's nice to know the next set is free.