Fastbrakes 4 and 6 piston BBKs!!

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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 12:43 PM
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Fastbrakes 4 and 6 piston BBKs!!

4 piston's
http://www.hpautoworks.com/index.php...oducts_id=4585

6 piston's
http://www.hpautoworks.com/index.php...oducts_id=4584

i'm guessing these are only for the fronts.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 04:02 PM
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I'm not buying it. The brake calipers look cheap and the brake rotors are separated from the hubs.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 04:04 PM
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Those are 2 piece rotors
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 05:21 PM
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ignorance is bliss.

Originally Posted by Phalanx
I'm not buying it. The brake calipers look cheap and the brake rotors are separated from the hubs.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Phalanx
I'm not buying it. The brake calipers look cheap and the brake rotors are separated from the hubs.
Those are Wilwoods, you don't get much better than that

You don't get out much, do you?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Phalanx
I'm not buying it. The brake calipers look cheap and the brake rotors are separated from the hubs.
Awesome! I would still rather OEM akebono with upgraded rotors if they ever come out with a 2 peice rotor for the akebono's
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by san~man
Those are Wilwoods, you don't get much better than that

You don't get out much, do you?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 08:20 PM
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Here's the pics from Andy's site, so you don't have to click the link:


 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 08:36 PM
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I had some Wilwoods and loved them!!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 11:06 PM
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Yes, I admit that I am not a pro at brakes. From a non professional opinion, I don't like the 2 pieces or whatever it is. That is my own preference, ok.
Why do yous want to make your car's brakes look like a motobike's brakes so much? Just because it looks different from the others?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 11:24 PM
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Very nice. Better performance, looks, AND less weight! So for a sport model, I would not go down in size to the 4 pot 13.25" kit correct? I would have to spring for the 6 pot 14" kit?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 01:58 AM
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Not necessarily. The 4 pot wilwood probably grips a whole lot better than our S brakes, with less fade too.

IMO, unless you road race, you really don't need these or any bbk (unless money is burning a hole in your pocket). I have yet to get my brakes to fade, and I'm sure I drive a HELLUVA lot more aggressive than 99% of you guys
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Phalanx
I'm not buying it. The brake calipers look cheap and the brake rotors are separated from the hubs.

I like this guy.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Phalanx
Yes, I admit that I am not a pro at brakes. From a non professional opinion, I don't like the 2 pieces or whatever it is. That is my own preference, ok.
Why do yous want to make your car's brakes look like a motobike's brakes so much? Just because it looks different from the others?
I don't think you understand what you are looking at. Drilled 2 piece rotors, the black "hat" bolt to the rotor. It will not look like a motorcycle brake if you mean visible gaps below the rotor spokes. You are seeking the caliper from the top. Look up Wilwood and you will understand.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Phalanx
Yes, I admit that I am not a pro at brakes. From a non professional opinion, I don't like the 2 pieces or whatever it is. That is my own preference, ok.
Why do yous want to make your car's brakes look like a motobike's brakes so much? Just because it looks different from the others?
Its more then look dude, its performance. 2 piece rotors allow you to have cooler temps on your rotors because they are 2 piece and thus they don't transfer heat from rotor to hat. The gap in between also helps by allowing air to go in and cool the rotor. The longer your brakes stay cool the better braking you have. With 2 piece rotors you have a better chance of not warping the rotors as you do with one piece. The 2 piece rotors are lighter as well because hats are usually aluminum and thus you save weight. And you can replace rotors on the same hat. Here is some info on why they are better:

http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/tw...p?display=back

Advantages:


* Lighter rotor (12-16% weight reduction varied with the size and design) than original one-piece rotor – meaning lower spinning weight.
* Cooler disc - due to higher heat dissipation rate of aluminum hat as compared to cast iron
* True full floating design (unlike others out in the marketplace) allows the disc to expand and contract freely without stressing the hat. This helps prevent the disc from warping or cracking.
* Allows consumers to replace only the rotor ring, while reusiing the hat. Although the initial cost of two-piece rotors is higher than one-piece rotors, the lifetime operating cost could be lower.

Design:

Type of Air Ventilation Vane:

* Solid disc (non ventilated)– Mainly for light duty usage such as rear rotors or drag racing.
* Straight vane (non directional) – For medium duty (usually up to 12”).
* Curved vane (directional) – For heavy duty (from about 12” up to 15”).
* Convergent vane (uni-directional)– Our patented design disc is lighter but stronger and more efficient in air circulation than conventional curved vane designs.

Type of Mount:
Surface mount: (Traditional design)

* Air ventilation is not very efficient because it admits air only from one side (inboard).
* Stress load is unbalanced as load center is on the outboard friction surface.
* Heat load to hat is solely from outboard disc surface and is unbalanced.
* Heat transfer is directly from outer disc surface to rotor hat which heats up rotor hat more rapidly.

Center Mount: (RacingBrake’s Patented design)

* Convergent vane allows greater airflow than conventional curved vane.
* More efficient air ventilation – Center mount provides air inlets from both inboard and outboard sides.
* Heat load on rotor hat is balanced from both sides of friction surfaces.
* Heat transfer from disc surface to rotor hat is greatly reduced due to longer distance to travel.
* Stress load is balanced due to the mounting surface being at the center plane of the disc.
* The hat can be mounted to disc on either side without having to identify left or right sides, yet once mounted, the rotor is truly directional! This avoids mix-up in installation and allows for easier inventory of parts.


Type of Assembly:

Non-Floating type:

* Non-floating two-piece rotors do not allow for contraction or expansion of the disc during heat cycles.
* Hardware used:
- Standard nuts and bolts.
- Bolt through threaded hole
* Many suppliers offer this type of assembly. Although these two piece rotors are lighter than standard one piece rotors, they do not have the functions of floating two-piece assemblies. Non-floating assemblies are easier and less expensive to make because they do not require the same precision as floating type assemblies.

Floating type:

* Disc has oblong holes which allow the disc to move (expansion & contraction) during heat cycles.
* Hardware used:
- Bolt to sleeve nut with conical washer, lock-tite is used (washers usually flatten out and create rattling noises).
- Bolt to “self-locking” sleeve nut w/o having to use lock-tite providing positive fastening without the rattling noise (RacingBrake design).

Production:


Material:

* Rotor Ring: Casting with our own tooling from high alloyed iron with proprietary heat treatment is our best assurance for lasting performance in racing industries.
* Rotor Hat: Forged 6061-T6 aluminum alloy with our own tooling for better strength and rigidity than billet (extruded), used by others.

Machining and Surface Coating:

* Disc is fully machined (including mounting tabs) and dynamically balance to <5gm-cm.
* Disc – EDP (Electro-Deposition Paint) see detail description, disc friction surface receives final double cross grinding to assure high precision in parallelism and thickness variation. Easy to break in.
* Rotor hat is coated with EDP to protect the aluminum surface from oxidation.
 
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