changing studs?
changing studs?
how hard or how easy is it to do??
i just got my ichiba spacers wit the the extended studs.
if anyone has some info on how to change the studs let me know.
thanks.
i just got my ichiba spacers wit the the extended studs.
if anyone has some info on how to change the studs let me know.
thanks.
The proper method is to have the old ones pressed out and the new ones pressed in.
Some guys will tell you to hammer them out and then get the new ones started, and to then use the lug nuts to 'pull' them the rest of the way in.
This is the redneck approach... the proper method requires a press.
Some guys will tell you to hammer them out and then get the new ones started, and to then use the lug nuts to 'pull' them the rest of the way in.
This is the redneck approach... the proper method requires a press.
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Yeah, the wheels have to have holes cut out for the studs to sit inside.... otherwise, the V2's won't work.
I still haven't looked at my wheels to see if they have the necessary cutouts
I still haven't looked at my wheels to see if they have the necessary cutouts
I heard that the "inboard studs" were actually supposed to be cut down to clear the wheel mounting face. I am not sure about cutting holes in the wheels.
There is also the issue about having some thread showing on the backside of the nut fo strength but I don't know if the V2 kit comes with low profile nuts or if regular nuts have enough room.
Anyway before OP decides, please talk to a knowledgable tech or get instructions from the manufacturer.
Here are some notes I found regarding the H&R DRM spacers.
Notes:
8) If the depth of the wheel spacer is smaller than the length of the standard studs, the wheels used must allow for small cavities in the mounting pad of the wheel. If using wheels without cavities, the standard studs should be shortened so that they do not extend beyond the height of the spacer.
There is also the issue about having some thread showing on the backside of the nut fo strength but I don't know if the V2 kit comes with low profile nuts or if regular nuts have enough room.
Anyway before OP decides, please talk to a knowledgable tech or get instructions from the manufacturer.
Here are some notes I found regarding the H&R DRM spacers.
Notes:
8) If the depth of the wheel spacer is smaller than the length of the standard studs, the wheels used must allow for small cavities in the mounting pad of the wheel. If using wheels without cavities, the standard studs should be shortened so that they do not extend beyond the height of the spacer.
Last edited by rustyeleio; Mar 11, 2009 at 02:42 AM.
I would not shorten the stock studs--that negates the benefit of being able to go with or without spacers at any time. If the stock studs are shortened, it is no longer safe to run rim on them without the spacers.
Bottom line, if you commit to ichiba v2 et al., just choose rims that have the cavities to accomodate them. And yes, m45 rims have em.
Bottom line, if you commit to ichiba v2 et al., just choose rims that have the cavities to accomodate them. And yes, m45 rims have em.
There's a great description on their website...
http://www.ichibausa.com/15albowhsp6.html
Last edited by AesonVirus; Mar 11, 2009 at 02:13 PM.
Nobody is cutting their wheels.
There's a great description on their website...
http://www.ichibausa.com/15albowhsp6.html
There's a great description on their website...
http://www.ichibausa.com/15albowhsp6.html


