The X should have the same rear end as the RWD G's. The issue with GCC spec G's is that the finned diff case gets in the way of the M brace. I would assume the Euro spec G's do not have this issue since it does not get as hot over there so a finned case wouldn't be needed. Now whether or not they fit an X, I'd say yes but don't take my word for it.

C'mon guys no one can clarify for me which hole I need to elongate?

You elongate the holes that attach the spring perch, not the ones that attach the camber arms.

Here's a general DIY (albeit for 350z):
SPC rear toe bolt install

Yeah that's the same instructions I posted earlier, thanks for the confirmation ... See Q8ty I told you it was the other hole

i don't get it, the SPC toe bolt is just a bolt that replaces the stock inner bolt on the arm?

look at the instructions above, you have to modify the toe bolt to elongate it so you can bring it back to oem spec (if u ever need to) at the same time you install the adjustable camber arms by replacing the stock camber arms (completely different holes and bolts)

So will the M-brace fit or not?? Any issues with the diff. on X?

I've personally got no idea when it comes to the X, probably better posting your question on the other GT spec brace thread and see if u get any feedback

Thats my point, it looks to me as if you're modifying the stock inner rear arm mount (By arm I mean the main A-Arm that holds the springs) to allow a wider range of adjustment. So in the end, SPC simply supplies you with a longer bolt. Now, to answer your original question, yes those are the bolts you need to elongate. I thought you were talking about the camber arms.

Anyhow, Why do our cars not include a rear toe link? I mean it surely would be a much more accurate way of adjusting toe.

lol yeah thy simply supply me with a longer bolt and say "now go do the hard work" I'm gonna try and get around to doing it tomorrow, I know it'll take me several hours

what exactly do u mean include a rear toe lnk? don't we have that already?

LOL

Well, looking by the pics it looks as if toe is adjusted using the rear inner arm bolt on the actual a-arm rather than a separate toe link connected between the subframe and knuckle. Basically the a-arm mount is fixed and a toe link (similar to the camber link) is used for adjustment. I simply find it more accurate.

Just as a note, who ever said that elongating the toe hole with the dremel bit listed in the installation notes is talking absolute crap, I just spend the past hour trying to elongate just one of these holes with my dremel and the suggested tool bit with no success until I actually fried my dremel

I'm gonna go buy a new one and use the fiber glass cutting tool to make the initial cuts and then punch out the new space required and smooth everything out.

I've got 3 fingers in my left hand damaged from all of this, two are burnt and one is cut

That's odd! I used the exact carbide bit listed and it worked like a charm. Took about 5 minutes each hole.

GCC spec G's must be made out of diamond LOL

man I dunno what it was, but I have the same bit and it wouldn't grind. Now I'm thinking was I running the right volts? because we have 120 and 220 v I think and I think the dremel should have run on 220 but I was running on 120....Only one way to check tomorrow with a volt reader if it isn't 120 then I dunno maybe my dremel is just $hit