I can't say what is currently being shipped by manufacturers, but when I boght my Stoptech lines, they were basically as Mike said, one longer continuous line for the fronts, and one shorter line for the rears . . . SO just I line per corner!.

Guess I had nothing better to do today, so here's some pics:



(Notice I removed the stock intermediate hardline that wrapped around the suspension member)
Left side:




Right side:



Here's the stock parts which I removed. The fronts are layed out, the rears are stuffed into the bag.




Front kit part number:



...and the rear kit:


Hope that helps.

 

...and BTW, that set of lines was purchased 3 years ago.

 

Nicely explained

And gotta love the labeling system, at first i was "looks like my pic, oh, wait!"

 

haha, yep, takes one to know one



I guess I've just been through enough projects over the years to know, when that day finally comes that I pull the parts out of a box and try to use them, I won't remember a damn thing about it, now matter how crystal clear it is to me at the time. So basically, it is my acknowledgement that I anticpate being stupider in the future.

(with maybe a little OCD on the side)

 

You guys are great! Thanks for the help and info.

Looks like I have to order a set as if it were for a 2010 Infiniti G37 sport sedan. This would make sure that I get the right banjo bolts for the calipers.

Here's a nice shot of the goodridge brake lines:
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-bra...ake-lines.html

They look nice but I'm assuming these don't come with the right Banjo bolts for the Akebono. In conclusion it seems as if almost all brake lines made for the Akebono's are interchangeable if you are actually running Akebono's.

 

I keep researching and I'm still not 100% if it'll work. I don't want to order the wrong lines and then be screwed when it comes time for the install.

I found this thread on myg37 in which the OP upgraded their brakes to BBK and had a problem with the Banjo Bolt:
http://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-a...liper-are.html

Goodridge offers two different sets of brake lines for our cars:

Non-Sport Models # GOOD22034
http://www.stillen.com/product/brake...g25-38572.html

Sport Models # GOOD22075
http://www.stillen.com/product/brake...kes-38581.html

I believe that the main differences in the kit is the obvious additional line for the non-sport kits AND the BANJO Bolts needed for the Akebono Caliper which is different than the non-sport calipers (I believe this BANJO Bolt is only different in the fronts?).

In my opinion he should have ordered the Goodridge Akebono Sport Brake Lines instead of the ones for the non-sport.

My only issue is the extra two brake lines that are meant for the front of the car that are used in the non-sport models. Are these two brake lines not needed if I were to upgrade to Akebono BBK?

 

Well put, and i couldn't agree more. j/k

IMHO, the bottom line is if you get the 6 line version, you have to use all of them as each of the two front lines will be too short. The reason there are 6 is so the mid-bracket can be used.

If you get a 4-line version, that mid bracket is not included, and the front lines are long enough to start at the hard line and terminate at the caliper with the single movable bracket to keep it from moving around too much.

Basically, if you get the 6-line, use all of it. The Akebono SS lines will likely include the correct banjo, but can come in a 6 or 4 line version.

 

Thanks again guys for the help.. You guys are great assets to this forum

 

The only thing I'd add to what Mike said is that those banjo bolts are hardly a deal breaker one way or the other. If you ever end up needing a longer or shorter one, they are available separately; no need to buy a whole new line just for the sake of them.

 

Excellent photos and excellent write up. I have an 08 g35s I purchased new in 08 and it just hit 80k miles....time to do brakes, full bleed. I bought the stoptech kit 977.42013 which includes slotted rotors, brake pads and the SS lines.....was quite the bargain as a package. The SS lines have the exact part number you show. Your post will keep me from pulling my hair out this weekend when I install everything. Thank you.

 

Uuuggggghhhhh....I'm working on the lines right now, I got the hard line from the firewall disconnected no problem with a flare wrench....but how do I remove the factory soft line from the wall mount to attach the new stoptech line? I'm stuck lol. I at least got the hard line plugged with the stopper from stoptech so fluid isn't running....but I got to figure this out

 

Nevermind.....just figured out the retaining clip. Had too much crud on it couldn't figure it out. Got it off now!

 

^^ Sorry, just got back to my computer and read this. Hope you didn't lose too much hair over it.

 

Thx for checking ! Lol

Btw...on those photos you posted above, are you referring to left and right as driver side (left) and passenger side (right)? I kept trying to route the R line like you did and use those mounting spots...but my line mounting tabs looked upside down from yours. I decided to call the stoptech tech line and they referred me to this manual pg18-19

http://www.stoptech.com/docs/install...98-487-1450-01

It's actually for a bbk, but the tech assured me its the same for just lines and stock calipers. It uses some different points than you did FYI. Also, I asked him to clarify R and L sides.....driver L, passenger R

 

FIrst off, yes, yes . . . . always, always, always . . . left and right are referenced from the drivers perspective. (L=driver side, R= passenger side) (the tie rods and sway bar were a dead give away too)

You know, it's been some years since I put those on, I'd have to take another look at them to be sure why I did what I did. To my best recollection, I didn't care for the instructions much, and did what I thought worked best at the time to ensure the safe, long term placement of the hose. I do have a vague recollection that I may have added an additional clamp and/or reversed the orientation of the ones that were already there to better accommodate the routing I used, but that could also have just been on a different type car too (I've put similar on quite a few over the years).

I also noticed that those instructions you linked to were to go with their BBK kit, so it could be possible that the banjo bolt sits in a slightly different orientation from the stock Sport brakes I had, and could be why mine is different. The bottom line is that you need to attach them un-kinked and secure in a position where they will not contact any rotating parts (rotor, wheel), nor rub against any stationary parts (shocks, suspension) at any steering angle AND at any degree of suspension compression. That being said, you could probably ask 10 different mechanics to mount them and you may end up with 10 slightly different approaches. Sorry if that's just adding more to your confusion, but it's all I got at the moment. I'll see if I can take another look at it, but it probably won't be until this weekend.