Hi Guys,

Question... how easy/hard is it to change all 4 rotors and pads on a '07 G35x?

After looking at prices around the area for shop/dealer to do it...I feel disturbed...

Anyone have links on DIY's? Also, why do people say front brakes are hardest?

Thanks in advance for input

 

I done this on a few cars, and not knowing specifics on this one, I'd tackle this myself. Rather than paying for the labor. Just plan extra time for the unknown challenges (frozen rotors, runs to the parts store for tools, etc.). And you should be fine, I consider myself a moderate DIY'er, not a beginner and not advanced....

Also search all the DIY's on driver... if there is not one in "our" DIY section there still may be others in the older gen's or coupes or something, that would mostly apply. If not google it, most cars are pretty similar when it comes to changing rotors pads. If you think there is any risk tho leave it to the professionals... the severity is pretty high is you don't do something right (for example closing a bleeder valve is easy to forget and could be disastrous).

G'luck

 

Thanks Kregg. I'm gonna tackle just the rear brakes for now with my GF's brother. he should be knowledgeable in this area since he is graduating from mechanic school this year lol. I'm reading online that it is an easy job tho.

Other Inquiries I have :
1. Can I put any type of rear brake pads on my STOCK rear rotors?
2. What are good brands/types to use on STOCK rotors?
3. Can i put "performance" rotors (slotted or whatnot) and pads on JUST the rear and have front on STOCK pads/rotors? Will this config have potential to mess anything up?

 

Honestly, i think the fronts are much easier than the rears - especially if the rotors are stuck since the OEM has "access holes" that you can screw a bolt in which in turn pops the rotors off the hub.

The rears, if stuck, will require some "work" in the form of banging, or do something similar to this --
1. Any pad will work, but one that has the same performance as the OEM is ideal, or you risk affecting the F-R brake bias. Then again, it's been argued that EBD will compensate for it.
2. There are many brands available, but feel that it's all personal preference. Personally, for daily driving, OEM works best.
3. Yes, but again see point 1 above about bias. Also, for daily driving, there is barely any performance gained with going the slotted or drilled route. Most people do it mainly for cosmetic reasons. Case in point, a directional vaned blank rotor will almost always perform better thermally than a slotted non-directional vane design. It's oversimplifying, but you get the point.

 

^ +1 on Soundmike's advice. If you want to improve braking ability first place to look is tires..... if you are running stock rubber switch those puppies out, you'll also get big gains in lateral G's (handling on the twisties) and acceleration.

 

Thanks for advice guys. I am going to change my OEM RS-A's this weekend. I'm going for Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus's. What do you guys think of this tire on '07 G35x? Will I have to worry about the TPMS if i just put them on STOCK rims?

 

I realize this thread is old, but I just replaced my RS-A's on the X with the Pilot Sport AS+ (but on new 18" wheels, not OEM wheel)... the ride is a lot smoother (even with the +1 wheel size), grip is better, less slop and virtually all of the tram lining (following road groves) is gone... BUT, the Michelin's whine like crazy at certain speeds and are a lot louder than the RS-As. It's so bad that I'm going to take it back to the tire place (Radial in Silver Spring, MD) and give it to them for a day to figure out. The owner thinks something else is going on, so we'll see... otherwise I'll swap out for the Continental DWS which is almost universally praised.

Sunil

 

I know. Old thread.

So, yesterday I changed front LEFT rotor and pads on my 2007 g35x. Then test drove. No problem. Drove car again this morning. No problem.

Today, I changed the front RIGHT rotor and pads. Put everything back together. Was going to test drive, but brakes are stuck. Can't move the car. So, jack the car back up, take the wheel off, remove caliper, reseat brake pads (since I thought they might not have been seated correctly the first time). Put everything back together. Brakes still stuck. Can't move car. Do I need to bleed the brakes? I don't know how.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Doesn't make any sense. Did you remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and compress the caliper pistons? Now way should the calipers be stuck.

 

Unfortunately, I did not remove the reservoir cap. Didn't realize I needed to. Also, didn't remove the reservoir cap yesterday when I did the left side. Probably why the pistons were kind of a pain to get to go back in with the C-Clamp.

 

Just helps the fluid go back with the cap off. Can you spin the wheels freely?

 

Haven't tried to spin them manually. but they'll barely spin under the power of the engine. I went and bought a very cheap bleed kit and will attempt to bleed them tomorrow morning. Unless someone gives me a better suggestion before I get started.

 

Bled the brakes this morning. That didn't help. It seems to be the front right wheel that's dragging. When I try to move the car, the front right tire just drags. Doesn't roll at all. Any suggestions?

 

I would guess that either there is some (foolish) obstruction that resulted from your changing the pads, or your caliper is damaged/toasted. Based on your responses here so far, you don't seem to have much experience working on brakes, so I would suspect an error on your part is the most likely cause. (not hatin, just sayin) I'd suggest you just take it apart again and make sure you didn't screw up somewhere.

.02

 

Yep. User error. I put the right rear rotor on the right front. Apparently they're different sizes. Doh!