07-09 Brake Judder TSB fix

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Old 09-21-2012, 05:51 PM
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Well, here I am... about 15k miles into new centric rotors, hawk ceramic pads and the splash shield tsb and am starting to notice judder. It is not huge but it is still noticeable. Beginning to think it has something to do with my highway speed vibrations which have progressively gotten worse (and no different when swapping 3 sets of rims/tires).
 
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mishmosh View Post
Well, here I am... about 15k miles into new centric rotors, hawk ceramic pads and the splash shield tsb and am starting to notice judder. It is not huge but it is still noticeable. Beginning to think it has something to do with my highway speed vibrations which have progressively gotten worse (and no different when swapping 3 sets of rims/tires).
Hmm . . .Might want to double check that your glide pins are well lubed and not binding at all.
 
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by vqsmile View Post
Hmm . . .Might want to double check that your glide pins are well lubed and not binding at all.
Thanks. I definitely do clean the pins and relube with brake grease whenever I do a brake job. My question has always been, how much lube do you put on the pins? Should there be pins be well seated in the chamber or should there be a push back when you try to push them in fully?

A few months ago when I noticed the judder coming back, I did take temps of the rotors. Both fronts were about the same and a few degrees more than the rears--nothing really out of whack though so I don't think the calipers are sticking. I have never believed in slotted or crossdrilled rotors for street use but maybe they would cool the rotors down faster? For sure ever since the first time I had judder, I have been careful not to wash the car soon after a drive or hit puddles of water if I could avoid it.
 
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mishmosh View Post
... My question has always been, how much lube do you put on the pins? Should there be pins be well seated in the chamber or should there be a push back when you try to push them in fully?

...
Well, the pins fit pretty snug, so most gets wiped off, and there's not a lot of extra room aside from packing a bit in the void spaces before the pins go in. I always put as much in as I reasonably can, while still being able to slide the caliper back and forth freely without it gushing out the boot, but I think what's really important is to remove as much of the old grease as possible before doing so. That way, it's getting replaced, not just adding a smear of new on top of old, stiff, cooked lube.
 
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  #65  
Old 11-16-2012, 09:08 PM
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Went into dealer yesterday to get an LOF and have them check out the brake judder issue.
08 with 37k miles. Dealer: Hoehn Infiniti in C'bad CA.

First call back.

Car is done and Tech doesn't feel the brake judder. I asked if the tech had driven it enough to get the vehicle up to operating temps.(I left the vehicle there the night before)
They said he just went around the dealer. I made sure I didn't step on any toes and politely said that maybe the Tech didn't get it up to operating temps.
I'm sure all their techs know exactly what they are doing. Service adviser said they would have him drive it again.

Second call back:

Tech drove it and felt the issue. Then they called me back and told me my vehicle's VIN doesn't fall under the TSB. After I brought it to their attention that the TSB said All VINs for V36 sedans from 07 to 09. Then they said I was passed the 4year/50k basic warranty. FML
 
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Ozzfest View Post
Went into dealer yesterday to get an LOF and have them check out the brake judder issue.
08 with 37k miles. Dealer: Hoehn Infiniti in C'bad CA.

First call back.

Car is done and Tech doesn't feel the brake judder. I asked if the tech had driven it enough to get the vehicle up to operating temps.(I left the vehicle there the night before)
They said he just went around the dealer. I made sure I didn't step on any toes and politely said that maybe the Tech didn't get it up to operating temps.
I'm sure all their techs know exactly what they are doing. Service adviser said they would have him drive it again.

Second call back:

Tech drove it and felt the issue. Then they called me back and told me my vehicle's VIN doesn't fall under the TSB. After I brought it to their attention that the TSB said All VINs for V36 sedans from 07 to 09. Then they said I was passed the 4year/50k basic warranty. FML
Ehh, aside from a free brake job, I wouldn't get too upset though; folks who've had it done report that the judder still comes back in time. I think the best solution is to just replace the pads and rotors with some good quality aftermarket ones and be done with it. Having the rotor splash guard is nice and all, but I really think it's just a bandaid on the real problem.

.02
 

Last edited by vqsmile; 11-17-2012 at 02:07 PM. Reason: sp
  #67  
Old 11-17-2012, 01:57 PM
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Thanks for the I'm still at I believe 4mm so when the time comes, guess I'll just have to get better parts like you said.
 
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Old 12-06-2012, 03:59 PM
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I am so glad I found this thread. I have an 08 G35x sedan that I purchased with 35,000 miles on it. The stock brakes and rotors were fine, until I had to replace them cause the pads were getting worn out (no judder yet), this was about 2 years ago. I saw this as a good opportunity to get aftermarket pads and rotors. I proceeded to purchase and install slotted and dimpled drilled rotors and pads from brakeperfomance.com. After about 5k miles I started to get the judder that everyone is talking about in this thread on AFTERMARKET pads and rotors. I also constantly heard a clicking noise coming from the car when driving; the noise turned out to be the wind getting caught in the dimples of the rotors and making a funny noise.

So after dealing with the brake judder and noise for about a year, I decided to purchase EBC Slotted Sport Rotors and Red Stuff brake pads. After installation the brakes were perfect, no noise or judder. After putting about 3-5k on the new rotors and pads the judder is back with a vengeance. I have now driven about 10k miles on these rotors and brakes with the jutter and it seems to be getting worse.

I initially thought it was the type of rotors and brakes I was getting, but that does not seem to be the case after looking at this thread and purchasing EBC rotors and pads. I just find it strange that on the stock rotors and pads I never got the judder and it only started after the aftermarket rotors and pads

Do you all think I should try getting the splash guards, turn the rotors, and get another set of new pads to see if that will fix the problem? My car is obviously out of warranty now with about 90k on it. I can't remember if my car already comes with splash guards or not, I think I remember seeing some kind of splash guards behind the rotors during install.
 
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Old 12-07-2012, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by iCRAZEg35z View Post
I am so glad I found this thread. I have an 08 G35x sedan that I purchased with 35,000 miles on it. The stock brakes and rotors were fine, until I had to replace them cause the pads were getting worn out (no judder yet), this was about 2 years ago. I saw this as a good opportunity to get aftermarket pads and rotors. I proceeded to purchase and install slotted and dimpled drilled rotors and pads from brakeperfomance.com. After about 5k miles I started to get the judder that everyone is talking about in this thread on AFTERMARKET pads and rotors. I also constantly heard a clicking noise coming from the car when driving; the noise turned out to be the wind getting caught in the dimples of the rotors and making a funny noise.

So after dealing with the brake judder and noise for about a year, I decided to purchase EBC Slotted Sport Rotors and Red Stuff brake pads. After installation the brakes were perfect, no noise or judder. After putting about 3-5k on the new rotors and pads the judder is back with a vengeance. I have now driven about 10k miles on these rotors and brakes with the jutter and it seems to be getting worse.

I initially thought it was the type of rotors and brakes I was getting, but that does not seem to be the case after looking at this thread and purchasing EBC rotors and pads. I just find it strange that on the stock rotors and pads I never got the judder and it only started after the aftermarket rotors and pads

Do you all think I should try getting the splash guards, turn the rotors, and get another set of new pads to see if that will fix the problem? My car is obviously out of warranty now with about 90k on it. I can't remember if my car already comes with splash guards or not, I think I remember seeing some kind of splash guards behind the rotors during install.
When you installed the new rotors/pads, did you clean and relube the caliper pins with synthetic brake lube? Did you clean all surfaces meticulously, including the metal hardware the brake pads tabs sit on? These are all very important on a floating piston design and often get compromised with age.

Pretty sure your car does not have the splash guards. Hard to say whether they would be useful or whether it is just a band aid. Only time will tell. Clearly Infiniti thinks they are a fix. If you can DIY, then the cost is minimal.
 
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:50 PM
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New to the forum here, just purchased an '07 G35x sedan with 68k on it, and purchased the Infiniti Elite extended warranty. I definitely have brake shudder, and used it to get the price down by $750, roughly my estimate of replacing pads and rotors. I don't know if I have splash guards described in the TSB or not, but assuming I don't, has anyone with the Elite warranty gotten this covered, or should I just go get some quality aftermarket pads/rotors and take care of this myself?

FWIW, I had a Chevy Avalanche that I installed Centric PowerSlot rotors and Hawk pads on, and they were fantastic, planning on using the same here.

Thanks,

Kevin
 
  #71  
Old 05-11-2019, 04:53 PM
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Just replaced my front brakes with new Brembo rotors and pads (did the rears a year ago) The judder is still there. Cleaned the wheel hubs, relubed the sliders and cleaned the piston boots. During hard braking it seems smoother than light. Not sure if it's a design issue or the automatic braking assist feature causing uneven modulation of the caliper. After bedding in the pads it seems to have gotten a smidge better. Will monitor as I only have 20 miles on them so far, but I'm starting to think it's a problem with the actual caliper (dual pistons) degrading after time.

BTW does this issue affect sport models as well?
 
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Old 05-12-2019, 01:51 PM
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Update:

Brake judder is now completely gone! I have a smooth pedal/no vibration... Finally.

The fix? Absolutely nothing. After bedding in the brakes and getting them up to temp. I shut off the car and let it sit. Next time I tried it, the judder disappeared. For everyone saying the oem rotors are crap and brake deposits are getting stuck to the rotor, well that may be the case, but that does not cause the issue.

With a set of brand new brembos on the initial drive it was exactly the same. Imo something is getting stuck/seized and not functioning properly in the caliper.
 
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