My rear brakes (one side) is making an awful groan, so I bought some new pads and was just going to do a swap. My rotors seems to be in good shape, cars brakes straight and smooth.

Just swap pad, use brake cleaner liberally and that's it? Fluid still looks light and clear. I might flush it (or pay someone for that).

 

At 40k miles, I am going to assume that these are the original brakes on the car. In that case, I would NOT suggest you just install new shoes on one side and call it a day. As a general rule (farm equipment excepted), it's never a good idea to hang new shoes on old, unturned, 40k mile rotors. Additionally, installing new shoes on one side without doing the other too, isn't advised.

If the brakes are groaning, there's got to be something bothering them. Either have someone, or yourself, do it correctly. Take it apart and find out what's causing it: binding glides, rusted/glazed/warped rotor, leaking brake fluid, etc.
You've enjoyed braking performance that was "straight and smooth", if you aim to preserve it that way, don't treat your car like and old farm truck.

.02

 

I was going to change the pads on the whole car not just a corner.

 

^ Oh Sorry, I guess I read it wrong then.
You definitely still need to have your rotors turned though and re-lube the glides. If you don't, you will undoubtedly see poorer performance and a diminished life cycle out of the new pad set. It's just never cost or time effective to do a brake job half way. You may be able to get by for a while without much noticeable impact by just hanging those pads, but soon enough, you'll start to see negative repercussions. Worst case, by the time you realize that the rotors need to be trued, you've damaged the new pads to the point that they will need replacing again too. Whether that happens or not, you can be fairly certain that you won't get another full 40k miles.

 

Thanks for the thoughts. Any other opinions?

 

I don't have any problems with replacing just pads and leaving the rotors & brake fluid alone at 40K, but thats just my opinion. My past experience has been that rotors last longer than pads (at least 2x as long), if they arent warped, glazed or worn then they dont need servicing. Same goes if the condition of the fluid is good and you still have time before recommended flush.

If my rotors were compromised in any way (warped) then I opt for new rotors over getting them turned. I'd rather just spend a little more to have fresh rotors than pump money into old ones that will probably just warp again. Plus I can replace rotors myself where I need a shop to get them turned.

 

 

I want to raplace pads myself and not sure is it easy job to do?any help or instructions ?

 

I have no confidence in oe rotors so i would replace the pads/rotors with aftermarket. If the problem is in the rear, I would only do rears though. new rotors, new pads. clean and lube caliper pins. Clean metal hardware where pads insert into. bleed brake lines.

 

hunh ??

 

i just replaced both my rear rotors and pads...easy, less than an hour!

 

I bleed brake lines every 30k miles. They are not part of a brake job but if you haven't done it, I would do it since you are already right there.

 

All rotors (rotor brands) are diffferent. On my VW I did great, on my Honda Pilot, not so much, on this car yet to be determined because I just had the TSB pulled and the dealer turned them for free.

Turning them is best. You might be ok if the rotors look brand new, but its not what the dealer will ever tell you.

 

Other may have had different luck, but I have NEVER had a new set of pads last a full and normal life on an unturned set of rotors . . . EVER! I just won't do it any more, it's not worth the hassle (and cost) to repeat it prematurely.