.

In terms of specs, theres not much option for the sedan. They only offer one fitment really which is 19 x 8.5" with 35 offset. I wish they would of had 19 x 9.5 with 35 offset or conversly, 19 x 8.5 with 25 offset...this would have given it a more "concave" and 3D look. The ones I ordered are still nice but they will be somewhat "flat" looking compared to those you see on the G35 coupes and Nissan Z's.

Color I chose is hyper silver but they do offer gun metal and mat black too.

Theres an "official" VMR photoshoot thread on the forum somewhere. You can see what I mean in that thread.

 

Nice. It should deff settle more low. and btw for small mild drops like this (eibach) you dont NEED camber kits. you dont get much camber at all with this anyway. Its a waste of money IMO

 

So far no more settling. As for camber, my tires are at -1.7 degrees. Slightly out of spec but not too bad. I think the factory acceptable range on the coupe is -1.8 is it not? My mazdaspeed3 (previous car) had visible negative camber from the factory that looked way worse than what my car is now.

I agree completely about the camber kit. I've driven about 800 km and so far no signs of odd tire wear. On my last car lowered car (two cars ago), I could see feathering on the inside edge after I lowered it. I don't see a hint of it yet. I know its early but still.

I have no doubt that the tires will wear unevenly but I really dont think my tires will get "chewed" up at an excessive rate.

 

Actually feathering is a sign of toe...so disregard that. The tires on my old car still went 50,000 km and i sold them without having to replace them yet.

 

You seem impressed by the ride....When I put springs on my Maxima, it would "crash" hard all the time. Have you had any bad incidents so far on the Eibachs?

 

The rides a bit more firm but no crashing at all. Sounds like your suspension was bottoming out? This is the second car I've had Eibachs on. The first car had bump stops on the shocks that needed to be trimmed an inch. The g35 doesn't have bump stops.

Maybe your installer didn't trim your bump stops?

 

So I measured my wheel gaps again...the fronts stayed the same but the rears settled another 1/4"!

total drop on either rear side is 1-3/8"....whats even more odd is that the gap on the rear passenger side is 1/4" less than the rear drivers side. BUT this was the case before I lowered the car too. I just never noticed this until I went back and looked at my measurements when the car was stock. First thoughts were...ok, my garage floor is out of level...but I parked the car 180 degrees and got the same measurements again. Cars pretty much empty but does have 1/2 a tank (30 litres) which is about 50 lbs or so. Tires both have equal wear...cars been in one rear end but there was no structural damage so that can't be it.

Visually, its not that noticeable but I'm considering Engergy Suspension parts 9.6120 (for pass side) and 9.6101 (for driver side) to get the drop back 1-1/8" on the driver side and level out the passenger side...its a $40 fix. Give it another month or two to see if things settle more.

Same as this thread:
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-bra...-too-pics.html


If anyone else has time out there, can you pls measure your stock or lowered wheel gaps and post if you see anything funny? All I did was put the end of the tape measurer to the fender and then eyeballed the dop of the tire so it was just the acutal gap i measured .

 

I'm slowly gathering up the courage to do this myself after this great tutorial. I do have a question regarding the orientation of the springs. The springs obviously have a designated top and bottom so I got that part. What I'm more concerned about is where the "spring ends" go? Are there notches in the front struts and and spring buckets where the "spring ends" sit against?

On another note, where did you buy your impact gun and compressor? How much?

 

i have the prokit rides smooth not harsh at all, i wish the front would have settled more on mine... it seems to high while the rears are perfect

 

For the lower end of the front and rear springs, there are notches or grooves in the strut perch and in the rear spring bucket to line up the lower spring ends. For the top of the front spring, there is also a groove in the upper strut mount. In the rear, there is no groove that I could see in the rubber cone for the spring end.

It's hard to mess up, especially if you take the fronts to a shop.

The compressor, i got at home depot for $400 and the impact gun which came with a rachet as well, I bought at Lowes for $150. It made sense for me since I have other things to do with these tools. For some, it may make sense just to pay a shop to do the whole thing...but keep in mind, you'll pay twice if you wanna go back to stock to sell the car one day.

 

Just to complete the thread...here's my ride with the VMR 710s mounted. I wanted a sporty but still "OEM" look.

I'm pretty happy with the car now...looks and drives the way I want it to.

 

that is a very handsome sedan!!! i am on Eibachs also,, and have same stance,,, don't worry about the front being a little higher than rear,, fenders are cut that way,, 1/2 inch diff. what your really wan't is a LEVEL car where the jack points are..... well done!

 

Do you think it work the same as the RWD Sedan. I just ordered the Eibach Pro-Kit

 

Yes it would,,,,easier install on front i would think....

 

uoftguy, your car looks great and thanks for the DIY info, it was very helpful in getting the job done. Even after eight years the 'G' is such a timeless, clean design.

My son and I installed KYB struts/shocks with the Eibach springs on our '07 G35X. It took us about 6 hours including going to the shop to have the springs compressed. We also tried the Harbor Freight spring compressors but they were useless because the Eibach springs are progressive and the coils are far too close together at the top to get the compressor tooth in-between.

We got the job done but not without some drama: 1st we stripped the front upper control arm ball joint bolt by over torquing. Luckily it can neither be tightened nor loosened, so hopefully it will hold until we get a replacement bolt/nut and cut off the stripped one. 2nd, we left the wheel lock key in the wheel after doing the front and it fell out somewhere on the test drive... we redrove the route and by some miracle we found it! If we didn't find it we would have been screwed because there would be no way to get the back wheels off to do the rear.

Finally, we sheared off one of the rear upper shock mount bolts... hopefully the other will hold or we'll have to drill out the broken stud and put a bolt through... lesson learned - DO NOT use a torque rachet to tighten small bolts and nuts!!

Live and learn I guess.

oh, and the car handles great! I also have the Hotchkis anti-sway bars in the car, so along with the new suspension the car corners like it's on rails with no body roll. Plus the ride quality is very nice - not rough like I was expecting. ... and it looks a lot better with its new stance

Sunil