Thanks for posting the pics Timmay. It looks very nice!

 

Great write up... pretty easy job... took me about 4hrs. (the last bolt for the control arms in the rear would NOT want to line up right )

results

 

Car looks great. I'm glad you like the springs.

 

In light of all the talk about spring purchases and costs going up, someone should sticky this

 

Hmmm, adding to list. Need second job to support mod habbit. Or cloak of invisibility to hide the bank account from wife.

Awesome write-up.

 

+1000

If the wife only knew what I had in mind....
I created a new bank account and I'm squirreling money little by little. LOL

 

This is the first car I've done anything with since we got married (11 years). She nearly stroked out when I bought a $1600 radar detector.

I'm going to use this thread to say "look Timmy is doing it."

 

ALL DISCLAIMERS APPLY HERE TOO, whatever you do on your own, you do so at YOU'RE OWN RISK. These are the Eibach springs used in the RWD installation. No problems with lining anything up, like they were made for the AwD as well.

I would like to thank Timmay77 for writing such a comprehensive DIY with photos.

For those of you who are planning to do this with the AWD models, there are some differences worth noting. Every other step is identical as is the rear spring setup as Timmay77's instructions.

I will do my best to point out the *differences* so please bear with me, as I may get some terminology incorrect as well.

REPLACING FRONT SPRINGS.......

This step is abit different for AWD cars due to there being a driveshaft in the way. This is the best photo I could take as I had put the car all back together.



The black part is the strut that the driveshaft goes through. It forms a "Y" shape and bolts onto the lower control arm. This needs to be removed.

In order to remove the strut from the vehicle, the upper control arm must be separated.



Be very careful when removing the bolt from this part, as when I removed it, it was very *tight* and mushroomed the threads on the bolt. I had to re-tap the threads and it is fine now.

At this point, be careful not to let the assembly drop too low from the car,
there is a danger of the axle coming OUT of the transmission.

If this happens, (depending on your luck) you may be in for a painful moment as you try and line up the axle to put it back into the tranny.
To prevent this, keep the top part of the assemble where you took the bolt out, close to the car,
if you let it drop, best of luck to you, as the axle may come out.

Installing the new spring notes,



As you can see, both look identical, Those of you who do the "Foot technique" for removing springs. This technique will only take you so far, as the struts are PRELOADED. Meaning you will HAVE TO COMPRESS THE NEW SPRING to re-assemble it. There is no way around this. The shaft will not come out far enough and this is the first time I has encountered a pre-loaded suspension. Make sure you have a spring compressor, otherwise, you may have just borked yourself if you employed the "Foot technique" without a compressor.

It was looking pretty bleak with the new springs in, but rest assured, there is a drop involved.

Before the install, I was able to get my entire fist into the fenders, front and back, now:

Back:


Front:


The rears look a little off camber, :



I will take it to an alignment shop in the following week and report my findings.

With all the different complications I have encountered added about 2 hours to the time, so about 3-4 (because I popped an axle out )

A few more pics are here:https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...59#post3218859

Questions or comments will be cheeerfully replied to in time.

 

I'm planning to drop my car, and after reading this i thought i'd attempt it myself. I haven't picked out a spring yet, but after looking at the write up, how would you mount coil overs in the rear??? If it's just a spring on a control arm where would the new spring/strut mount?

 

The springs and shocks in a coilover set up mount in the exact same area as the stock springs and shocks. The only difference is, the springs mount onto a threaded collar which allows height adjustability.

So, technically, the rears are not "coilovers" in the sense that the spring coils are not sitting "over" the shocks, but they're height adjustable just like other regular coilover set ups.

 

well i did mine last week with h&r's and it is alot lower than the 1.3 that they said it would be. Now I am looking at a camber kit for it because the wheels are tilted in alot. I will post a photo soon.

 

Just wanted to say thanks for the excellent write up and pictures. Put on my Eibach Prokit and camber/toe kit today. It took me about 5 hours--I was surprised because I don't consider myself a newb! Putting back the bolt that secures the bottom of the front strut was a bear--if you line up the springs to the rubber spring mounts-the strut will not be oriented correctly. Also dremeling the toe bolt hole took a little time but wasn't too bad.

I also put on GTspec subframe tie brace--great product, although pricey. Very easy to install using existing holes with the hardware provided. Literally took 5 minutes!

Preliminary opinion: you can feel the bumps in the road a LOT more. I also heard some dash noise I didn't have before. I think it is unavoidable that NVH factor is a notch higher. But the car is much more planted in corners and of course looks awesome so it is all worth it!

 

Thanks for the instructions OP!

Does anyone have the numbers for torquing the bolts back down?

Thanks.

 

Added to DIY section

 

Damn. That is such a aggressive drop. Looks nice though!