DIY: Coilover Install
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Joined: Sep 2008
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No problem Mike. The rear (with the right tools), is SUPER easy compared to the front.
Sorry, didn't see your question. The answer is no, refer to this pic (the first time I installed it, we did it wrong):
**EDIT**
I should specify that you will not use the rubber cone with coil overs, but you will use them when doing just a spring change.
This is the wrong way to mount the rears:
**EDIT**
I should specify that you will not use the rubber cone with coil overs, but you will use them when doing just a spring change.
This is the wrong way to mount the rears:
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 21,095
Likes: 47
From: Toronto, GTA north
FWIW....
On the front struts;
I didn't have to touch the end links or sways at all.
I just removed the strut lower side plate,
Pulled the through bolt back as far as it would go,
& slid the strut sideways off the bolt as I removed it.
On the front struts;
I didn't have to touch the end links or sways at all.
I just removed the strut lower side plate,
Pulled the through bolt back as far as it would go,
& slid the strut sideways off the bolt as I removed it.
^ i was wondering about that. I tried installing the Eibach's sometime back and couldn't get the bolt on the endlinks to budge, even with an impact. I now have some of that rust dissolver spray and will try it again, but if you say it can be done without taking the end links off, i'll try that instead. Thanks.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 21,095
Likes: 47
From: Toronto, GTA north
^ was no problem at all.
Just put the jack underneath, & lift until you take the pressure off the through bolt.
AFter working on my '04, the 2nd gen strut is a breeze.
Just put the jack underneath, & lift until you take the pressure off the through bolt.
AFter working on my '04, the 2nd gen strut is a breeze.
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Well, I had to adjust my rear struts yesterday, and I must say that with the hole I made it's really easy now. It's actually harder taking out the baby seat with those fuggin latch anchors than it is taking the seat itself out.
If any of you convert to CO's, drill the hole like I did and save yourself the money the extenders would have cost you and apply it elsewhere.
If any of you convert to CO's, drill the hole like I did and save yourself the money the extenders would have cost you and apply it elsewhere.
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Thanks Ian (got the pm the other day too, thanks for that).
When I took the seat off to see where the strut tower ended up (to see if I could make the extenders work), I figured out what Alan was saying at that moment. He basically told me over PM that the extenders would be crushed by the seat, and that there was no way to adjust the strut stiffness via the extenders w/o removing the seat. So I figured I'd make the hole myself and save the 90 bucks JIC wanted for the extenders.
On top of that, the top of the strut tower was solid, not like on other cars where there is a removable rubber donut covering the top. Sometimes I think the Infiniti engineers had a brain fart on some designs of our cars.
San
When I took the seat off to see where the strut tower ended up (to see if I could make the extenders work), I figured out what Alan was saying at that moment. He basically told me over PM that the extenders would be crushed by the seat, and that there was no way to adjust the strut stiffness via the extenders w/o removing the seat. So I figured I'd make the hole myself and save the 90 bucks JIC wanted for the extenders.
On top of that, the top of the strut tower was solid, not like on other cars where there is a removable rubber donut covering the top. Sometimes I think the Infiniti engineers had a brain fart on some designs of our cars.
San
Thats the best DIY I have seen for a coilover setup.. +++ great job!
I may need your help big time though.. I just tried to install my JIC coilovers for the coupe and came across a problem.. the front fits on great but have a look @ this forum if you can here
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...ml#post4289994
I may need your help big time though.. I just tried to install my JIC coilovers for the coupe and came across a problem.. the front fits on great but have a look @ this forum if you can here
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...ml#post4289994
Here's how I solved adjusting the rears w/o having to constantly remove the strut:
1. The seat is super easy to remove. There's 2 tabs on the lower seat cushion where your calves would touch the cushion. Pull them out toward the front of the car and the cushion will pop up.
2. There's 4 bolts that hold each side of the seat back onto the frame (2 per seat cushion). IIRC, they were about a 17mm or so, and there's 2 on each side. The seat backs are independent of each other, and the center arm rest area will stay mounted to the car. Once you remove the 4 bolts, pivot the lower seat back portion (where the bolts were) up to about 70*ish, and they will release from the tabs that hold the top part of the seat back to the frame.
3. I used a drill driver and 2 uni-bits to make the hole. I centered the hole, but in retrospect the hole should be slightly inset more toward the middle of the car (the strut nut isn't exactly "centered")
4. I IM'd Adrian at JIC about the extenders, but once I opened up the seat, I saw what Alan was talking about how the extender would get kinked by the seat back, and removing the seat would still be necessary. So, save yourself the 85 bux and just make the hole for adjustment.
4. Now you can make easy adjustments using the JIC allen wrench tool once you remove the seat. Once you get the hang of removing the seat, it'll take you 5 minutes, tops.
1. The seat is super easy to remove. There's 2 tabs on the lower seat cushion where your calves would touch the cushion. Pull them out toward the front of the car and the cushion will pop up.
2. There's 4 bolts that hold each side of the seat back onto the frame (2 per seat cushion). IIRC, they were about a 17mm or so, and there's 2 on each side. The seat backs are independent of each other, and the center arm rest area will stay mounted to the car. Once you remove the 4 bolts, pivot the lower seat back portion (where the bolts were) up to about 70*ish, and they will release from the tabs that hold the top part of the seat back to the frame.
3. I used a drill driver and 2 uni-bits to make the hole. I centered the hole, but in retrospect the hole should be slightly inset more toward the middle of the car (the strut nut isn't exactly "centered")
4. I IM'd Adrian at JIC about the extenders, but once I opened up the seat, I saw what Alan was talking about how the extender would get kinked by the seat back, and removing the seat would still be necessary. So, save yourself the 85 bux and just make the hole for adjustment.
4. Now you can make easy adjustments using the JIC allen wrench tool once you remove the seat. Once you get the hang of removing the seat, it'll take you 5 minutes, tops.
So yeah, removing the rear seat is the best option to do it.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 21,095
Likes: 47
From: Toronto, GTA north
Rear damper length setting
Thanks San
I received this set up info from JIC-Magic tech support,
which seems like a logical procedure to keep damper stroke near max. length.
1. Adjust the spring height FIRST.
2. after your spring ride height^ is set, adjust the damper length.
- place car on jack stands
- measure height to bottom of spring cup
- with a floor jack raise the spring cup 10mm (pre-load)
- adjust the damper length to fit this position.
I received this set up info from JIC-Magic tech support,
which seems like a logical procedure to keep damper stroke near max. length.
1. Adjust the spring height FIRST.
2. after your spring ride height^ is set, adjust the damper length.
- place car on jack stands
- measure height to bottom of spring cup
- with a floor jack raise the spring cup 10mm (pre-load)
- adjust the damper length to fit this position.