DIY: Coilover Install
#61
07-08-2010 | 04:53 PM
Basically drenched the entire bolt, front and back, with PB 24 hours prior, banged on it after 24 hours and re-applied more PB 30 minutes before i started hitting it with the impact.
This is similar to the gun i have, rated at 90psi, too. But there was no way it was going to work at that pressure especially since my compressor isn't particularly powerful.
This is similar to the gun i have, rated at 90psi, too. But there was no way it was going to work at that pressure especially since my compressor isn't particularly powerful.
#62
07-08-2010 | 04:56 PM
#63
07-08-2010 | 05:03 PM
IIRC, the rating is based on load pressures.
Compressors aren't all built the same, but generally when you pull that trigger, the pressure regulator will drop a few lbs. So if you set it to 90 there, it drops to maybe 85 or so when the trigger is pulled.
Try bumping it to 100 or 105 and see if that helps any.
And oh, please use a wrench to hold that other end. A vice can easily strip things.
Compressors aren't all built the same, but generally when you pull that trigger, the pressure regulator will drop a few lbs. So if you set it to 90 there, it drops to maybe 85 or so when the trigger is pulled.
Try bumping it to 100 or 105 and see if that helps any.
And oh, please use a wrench to hold that other end. A vice can easily strip things.
#64
07-08-2010 | 06:07 PM
mike,
your advice is too late, lol. no no jk. i used a vice grip because i did not seem to have a wrench big enough (it wouldve been a lot easier with a wrench i must admit). but i finally got it to budge, this is only the drivers side and its too late to do the springs so i just put it back on and will install tommorow.
what i did do in preparation for tommorow was; PB all 4 nuts that need to be undone on each side of the car (front only) and then spray them again 30 minutes later. then tommorow ill spray them again about 1/2 an hour before starting and hopefully it all pays off, my makeshift breaker bar and technique cant do this over and over. i wont lie, minus the badass jack and jackstands my work area is pretty ghetto. but it works so hey.
thanks for all the help OP and soundmike, i think i have the procedure memorized, lol.
your advice is too late, lol. no no jk. i used a vice grip because i did not seem to have a wrench big enough (it wouldve been a lot easier with a wrench i must admit). but i finally got it to budge, this is only the drivers side and its too late to do the springs so i just put it back on and will install tommorow.
what i did do in preparation for tommorow was; PB all 4 nuts that need to be undone on each side of the car (front only) and then spray them again 30 minutes later. then tommorow ill spray them again about 1/2 an hour before starting and hopefully it all pays off, my makeshift breaker bar and technique cant do this over and over. i wont lie, minus the badass jack and jackstands my work area is pretty ghetto. but it works so hey.
thanks for all the help OP and soundmike, i think i have the procedure memorized, lol.
#65
08-28-2010 | 09:50 AM
Here's how I solved adjusting the rears w/o having to constantly remove the strut:
1. The seat is super easy to remove. There's 2 tabs on the lower seat cushion where your calves would touch the cushion. Pull them out toward the front of the car and the cushion will pop up.
2. There's 4 bolts that hold each side of the seat back onto the frame (2 per seat cushion). IIRC, they were about a 17mm or so, and there's 2 on each side. The seat backs are independent of each other, and the center arm rest area will stay mounted to the car. Once you remove the 4 bolts, pivot the lower seat back portion (where the bolts were) up to about 70*ish, and they will release from the tabs that hold the top part of the seat back to the frame.
3. I used a drill driver and 2 uni-bits to make the hole. I centered the hole, but in retrospect the hole should be slightly inset more toward the middle of the car (the strut nut isn't exactly "centered")
4. I IM'd Adrian at JIC about the extenders, but once I opened up the seat, I saw what Alan was talking about how the extender would get kinked by the seat back, and removing the seat would still be necessary. So, save yourself the 85 bux and just make the hole for adjustment.
4. Now you can make easy adjustments using the JIC allen wrench tool once you remove the seat. Once you get the hang of removing the seat, it'll take you 5 minutes, tops.
1. The seat is super easy to remove. There's 2 tabs on the lower seat cushion where your calves would touch the cushion. Pull them out toward the front of the car and the cushion will pop up.
2. There's 4 bolts that hold each side of the seat back onto the frame (2 per seat cushion). IIRC, they were about a 17mm or so, and there's 2 on each side. The seat backs are independent of each other, and the center arm rest area will stay mounted to the car. Once you remove the 4 bolts, pivot the lower seat back portion (where the bolts were) up to about 70*ish, and they will release from the tabs that hold the top part of the seat back to the frame.
3. I used a drill driver and 2 uni-bits to make the hole. I centered the hole, but in retrospect the hole should be slightly inset more toward the middle of the car (the strut nut isn't exactly "centered")
4. I IM'd Adrian at JIC about the extenders, but once I opened up the seat, I saw what Alan was talking about how the extender would get kinked by the seat back, and removing the seat would still be necessary. So, save yourself the 85 bux and just make the hole for adjustment.
4. Now you can make easy adjustments using the JIC allen wrench tool once you remove the seat. Once you get the hang of removing the seat, it'll take you 5 minutes, tops.
#71
10-02-2010 | 05:06 AM
You're Despicable
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,167
Likes: 33
From: on a sand dune
I honestly believe it would depend on what make of suspensions you're going for.
I have JICs and the **** does not stick out at all, it's like 2-3 cm into the hole so it's pretty short.
But I have seen other suspensions which actually have them either flush with the hole or even sticking out slightly.
I think it would all depend on what make coilovers you install.
I have JICs and the **** does not stick out at all, it's like 2-3 cm into the hole so it's pretty short.
But I have seen other suspensions which actually have them either flush with the hole or even sticking out slightly.
I think it would all depend on what make coilovers you install.
#72
10-02-2010 | 06:05 AM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,487
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
#73
10-02-2010 | 08:56 AM
^ Way to rub it in
For the most part, the ***** will not stick out. Some people have drilled 2-4" holes to gain access, while others use the extenders. Some extenders are quite short for our application (unless you route them back into the trunk by drilling yet another hole). Here's my solution.
For the most part, the ***** will not stick out. Some people have drilled 2-4" holes to gain access, while others use the extenders. Some extenders are quite short for our application (unless you route them back into the trunk by drilling yet another hole). Here's my solution.
