no problem! when i do my tranny fluid in the spring i'll make another one.

 

I spent so much time and energy on finding a tool to get into the tensioner, everything was too thick. Finally found out there is a belt tensioner tool at sears and amazon. Made it a breeze.

Btw, no idea how many miles old belt had on it, at least 30k since I've had it and there was barely any wear. I'm thinking I won't be changing again for at least 50k

 

^ glad you got it done but for the tensioner all you need was a regular 1/2" breaker bar or long ratchet... and yes the belts will last longer than 30k as long as your tensioner is in good shape.

 

FYI, I'm at 62k miles on my original belt and it still looks just fine. I have no plans to change it until it shows some signs of wear.

 

Great DIY...I bought a serpentine belt tool from harbor frieght for 15 bucks with coupon and that worked well. Of course I dropped it so I had to jack up the car and take off the cover on the bottom to get the tool..but that worked out well because it was much easier to thread the belt properly with access to both top and bottom.

I had never changed it at 66k miles and had a potential buyer looking at the car this weekend who noticed it was starting to disintegrate.

 

Glad to see that this helped! I hope to do more in the future!

 

I'm so happy this site exists! Looking here has saved me $ before, and today it's saving me over $150!

Maybe someone could answer a question for me?

I will need to purchase a breaker bar, and I'm not sure if there's a particular length I should purchase. Any help is appreciate!

Thanks!

 

Oh man, with breaker bars, i go with the "longer is better" mantra. Unless of course you're trying to fit it in ridiculously small places.

Anywhere from 18" and up is good. If you get the shorter one, you can always slide a pipe over it to gain more leverage later.

 

One thing to consider with longer breaker bars (18"+) is that you usually need the 1/2" drive size on the end or you may end up snapping sockets and/or the drive end of the bar due to the radically enhanced leverage potential. If you are only looking for the length, and not strength too, you can stick with a 3/8" drive.

 

if you buy the actual belt replacement tool i believe it's around 18 or 24" and has the 3/8" drive at the end and there is another 6" or 8" extension that comes with it and has a 1/2" drive on it. the extension can be mounted relative to the breaker bar part at 90, 135, 180, 225 and 270 degrees to allow easier access to the tensioner. worth every penny since i always work on my car, my brother's car, my gf's car, my sister in law's car, etc.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=141488_0_0_

 

Thanks for making a DIY, it definitely made my life a lot easier.

One question though, I know get a whinning sound (almost like a supercharger noise). Is this just the nature of the new belt getting broken in? It looks like its properly seated.

 

So theres only one belt in the 07-08 g35's? I took my car to a mechanic and they were trying to charge me 150 to change "three" belts..

 

FInd a new 'mechanic'.

 

ben_m - I can't actually speak to this as i've never had the problem. If you're tensioner is good I would imagine you shouldn't hear anything at all. You're sure this started with the new belt?

pwntu - Correct, only one serpentine/drive belt on our engines. The VQ35 has a timing chain but I would imagine that this is not what your mechanic was referring to.

 

Noise went away. I think it was just because the new belt was a little stiff. Put on about 300miles since replacing and now its nice and quiet.