Yesterday I went and put my car on the Dynojet, and my best pull out of 3 pulls was 261 whp and 221 torque. I thought my numbers should be higher because I just added a FI high flow cat, and 2.25 custom X-pipe exhaust. Other than G35Robby, I know what he's pulling , what #'s are some of you guys getting on the dyno with or without mods?

 

If you consider that an "average" bone-stock G will dyno around 250ish, you're pretty much spot-on in dyno numbers.

Besides, dyno numbers are worthless. The real indicator of power is 1/4 mile trap speed (and ET to some extent).

 

is your car Auto or 6MT? I know the Autos were like in the 250-255 range Stock. and the 6MT car were in the 260-265 range. so your car did gain some HP's if it's an Auto. do a search here, I forget what member it was, but it showed stock HP's and then dyno numbers after his Mods. and his car was an Auto also, and I think u guy's were close in numbers!

 

This is a little discouraging, I felt like my numbers should have been higher. I think for now I'll hold off with the boltons and wait until vortech comes out with the supercharger they supposedly have in the R&D stage.

 

Yeah I'm auto

 

342rwhp procharged ,stock int. and exhaust..my fuel system had a faulty computer when my dyno was done,i think i can get better numbers.

 

i had 252awhp stock and 220 awtq.
now 272awhp and 250 awtq.
dyno jet.
mods below.

 

Wait Suby you had a reflash though right?

 

261 does seem a bit low, but you do have to remember that each and every dyno will read differently. Also, factors like air temperature, elevation, air to fuel ratio, what gear your in, etc... can really effect you dyno numbers. A dyno is best used for tuning and for determining if a mod is giving you any recordable increases, but you must stick with the same dyno.

Here are my results... so far...

289 HP Stock on DynaPack (~11.5 AFR, 74° F, 30% humidity)
294 HP with K&N on DynaPack (~12.0 AFR, 74°, 30% humildity)

269 HP with K&N on DynoJet (69°, 20% humidity)

Still need to dyno again with my new mods and my UpRev tune (once I get it done).

 

The power difference in the last 2 runs were down to the type of dyno and the weather? I wouldn't have expected it to fall from 294 to 269 with just a change in Dyno, I guess they play an even bigger part than I already expected.

 

Maz
The dynojet is usually the "reference" as far as dynos go since their the most plentiful. The dynapack seems to read high, just as a mustang dyno tends to read low.

As I said, the only "true" measurement of HP is 1/4 mile trap and ET, as all dynos are good for is a "baseline". Besides, a dyno operator can make it read high or low so take each dyno with a "grain of salt"

Take Adrian's dyno for example (and I'm not ******* you bro, you know that ). If he dynoed 289 stock, that's a 17 HP difference from the crank HP number. If you do the math, that roughly a 6-7% drivetrain loss, which is impossible unless nissan severly under-rate the vq motor ( which I doubt is the case). A manual drivetrain loss is in the area of 12-15% while an auto is 17-20%.

 

Would keeping the traction control being on have something to do with horsepower #'s being lower?

 

where did you get a dyno at? I see your local, so must be BSM, Nakaz or Munkywerks? Just was curious.

 

I went to Radmotorsports, and it took them forever to hook the dyno up.

 

nope just those bolt ons. im waiting on one very soon.