I made a few posts about it here and on my350Z. I will tweet about it later today.

 

Sorry, I missed this until now. It started in '05 with the rev up motor. Pretty sure the z didn't have it until then also.

 

Ah... that must be where I heard it; thanks Deane.

 

I just discovered that the ECU has a dedicated RPM output - it's a red wire at pin 110.

This is on a smaller 32 pin plug at the ECU - it would definately be worth giving this signal a shot to drive the shift light!

This is ONLY on the newer ECUs - 07ish up.

 

That sounds good Kev.

 

Nice find Kev.

Come on guys, 2 more peeps and we can get the ball rollin'.

BTW Kev, I asked earlier but you probably missed it: Which is more preferrable, to mount the unit near the VDC and extend the wires to the BCM, or vice versa? Is there any disadvantage to either? Thanks

 

^ under drivers side dash according to install pdf.

http://www.kptechnologies.com/docs/S...stallation.pdf

 

Ya, I read that, but those directions are so generic. Therefore, I'm wondering if it's recommended to lengthen the rpm input or the led wire, or if it doesn't matter.

At least we have a dedicated rpm signal wire now

 

I think it'd be easier to lengthen the RPM wire if you had too.
More than likely, it's long enough to get to the connection point.

The LED is a twisted pr & would be more of a PITA to splice.

 

The LED is pretty long, and the RPM wire is pretty long, so length between the two shouldn't be an issue.

You don't need to actually wire to the BCM, you need the ECU (near the BCM, under the passenger side of the dashboard).

Since most of the wires are at the VDC switch and the RPM wire is long, I would mount the module in close proximatey to the VDC switch. You can grab your program input, ground, and the switched power near the VDC switch, then just mount your LED and run the long RPM wire to the ECU.

 

That's true too, but I was thinking I'd have to use a slightly larger LED anyway, so I'd have to splice the wires. Then again, the VDC switch is under there, so in essence I'd have to lengthen 3 wires (2 led, 1 VDC) rather than one rpm wire. You're probably right.

BTW, when I used to work car audio, we used to put both wires in the tip of our cordless drill and turn it on to twist them so that's super easy to deal with too.

*Edit*, just saw Kev's post, nm lol

 

lol... been there & done that as well.
We do process instrumentation, everything is 4-20ma shielded twisted pair.
I've done the drill routine on occasion though.

 

Did anyone make a post on myg37 about the GB? We only need 2 more, dammit

 

All this "tap into the ECU" talk has me dizzy.
This had better come with instructions that a monkey can follow. (Me being that said monkey)

I'm really surprised this isn't showing more interest.
Only three of us have wished for this?

 

Soooooooo.....

Where we at with this?