V36 General Tech Questions Questions and Posts that Do Not fit under the other Tech catagories

First DIY Oil Change!

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Old May 23, 2008 | 04:23 AM
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oughttoreturn's Avatar
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Smile First DIY Oil Change!

Finally I changed the oil for G35 myself! After reading various posts and threads I decided to use the one side method.

There are two big round plate with donut hole at the side of the suspension frame, it's very thick, i think its called underbrace. I jack up the driver's side up then put a jack stand under the spare wheel jack point then i lower the jack to let the car rest on the jack stand then i jack up the brace again to give it support, so now there are two resting points then the spare jack stand i place it under the suspension plate which 1mm clearance for 3rd safety precaution.

Ok now with the creeper i slide under and unbolt the 4 fasterners (10mm) then fold down the plastic oil pan cover, drain the oil (14mm bolt) and remove oil filter. Lube gasket of new filter and dump small amount in to fill then hand tighten. Tighten oil bolt. Tighten 4 fasterners. Jack up the car 1mm or just release jack stand lock then lower jack. oh make sure to put 2 blocks of wood behind rear wheels and of course e brake on whole time.

Fill in oil, thats it!!! make sure not to let dust around oil cap area to fall into oil hole or just clean dust very carefully in away motion. use a one quart bottle and cut it in half use top as a funnel. have fun

BTW the center jack point for G35 is too deep, most jack wont do, you need the super long nice shop kind which is expensive.

My G35 have 10K miles, been using semi-syntec, switched to mobil 1 today. The semi-syntec stays clean for only 3000k miles from my experience, lets see how long the mobil 1 ep can go before turning from golden to brown.

Went to Walmart, Mobil 1 EP 5-30 5 quart big bottle $26, mobil 1 ep oil filter m108 $11, shop light fixture $8. Jack set(torio brand, 2 ton jack, 2 jackstands, 1 creeper) from Pepboys for $35. $80 total...
____________
2008 G35 journey5at ivory/stone+prem&sportpkg.(k&n airfilters)
 

Last edited by oughttoreturn; May 24, 2008 at 07:38 PM.
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Old May 23, 2008 | 08:27 AM
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you should replace the crush washer too.
 
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Old May 23, 2008 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by oughttoreturn
Finally I changed the oil for G35 myself! After reading various posts and threads I decided to use the one side method.

There are two big round plate with donut hole at the side of the suspension frame, it's very thick, i think its called underbrace. I jack up the driver's side up then put a jack stand under the spare wheel jack point then i lower the jack to let the car rest on the jack stand then i jack up the brace again to give it support, so now there are two resting points then the spare jack stand i place it under the suspension plate which 1mm clearance for 3rd safety precaution.

Ok now with the creeper i slide under and unbolt the 4 fasterners (10mm) then fold down the plastic oil pan cover, drain the oil (14mm bolt) and remove oil filter. Lube gasket of new filter and dump small amount in to fill then hand tighten. Tighten oil bolt. Tighten 4 fasterners. Jack up the car 1mm or just release jack stand lock then lower jack. oh make sure to put 2 blocks of wood behind rear wheels and of course e brake on whole time.

Fill in oil, thats it!

BTW the center jack point for G35 is too deep, most jack wont do, you need the super long nice shop kind which is expensive.

My G35 have 10K miles, been using semi-syntec, switched to mobil 1 today. The semi-syntec stays clean for only 3000k miles from my experience, lets see how long the mobil 1 ep can go before turning from golden to brown.

Went to Walmart, Mobil 1 EP 5-30 5 quart big bottle $26, mobil 1 ep oil filter m108 $11, shop light fixture $8. Jack set(torio brand, 2 ton jack, 2 jackstands, 1 creeper) from Pepboys for $35. $80 total...
____________
2008 G35 journey5at ivory/stone+prem&sportpkg.(k&n airfilters)
You cannot tell if an oil is bad by it's color. Every oil changes color. The only way to tell how long an oil is good for is oil analysis. Mobil 1 EP should be good for a minimum of 10k. I normally do filter changes at 5k intervals and add oil.
 
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Old May 23, 2008 | 08:41 AM
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From: Pothole Central and still ridin slammed...Boston
Very nice write up. Next time I do mine I will have to take some pics!
 
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Old May 23, 2008 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Lemodular
you should replace the crush washer too.
+1 I used to change mine at every interval. I have since installed a valve that never needs replacement. I believe there was a group by here 6-8 months ago. Cost is about $20. Makes life so much easier.
 
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Old May 23, 2008 | 08:42 AM
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I have just gone to a 3750 interval on my car. I don't wanna risk it. I went to a 7K on my Honda which was rated for 5K, and with mobile one, i had a clogging issue with my vtec.
 
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Old May 23, 2008 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by princealyy
I have just gone to a 3750 interval on my car. I don't wanna risk it. I went to a 7K on my Honda which was rated for 5K, and with mobile one, i had a clogging issue with my vtec.
I've been doing extended drain intervals upwards of 20k on my vehicles since 1994 and I've never experienced any issues. 3750 is very conservative even for dino oils.
 
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Old May 23, 2008 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Virus
You cannot tell if an oil is bad by it's color. Every oil changes color. The only way to tell how long an oil is good for is oil analysis. Mobil 1 EP should be good for a minimum of 10k. I normally do filter changes at 5k intervals and add oil.
10K is pretty damn long!! Cool.
 
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Old May 23, 2008 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by oughttoreturn
10K is pretty damn long!! Cool.
Not really. Mobil 1 EP, Amsoil and Redline are good for around 15k in the VQ35 according to oil analysis. 10k is still conservative and provides alot of savings and time to change oil. I use to go 15-20k intervals on an old Honda Civic. Honda recommends 7-10k oil change intervals now with regular oil.
 
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Old May 27, 2008 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Virus
+1 I used to change mine at every interval. I have since installed a valve that never needs replacement. I believe there was a group by here 6-8 months ago. Cost is about $20. Makes life so much easier.
Did you install the Fumoto valve with the spring-loaded lever ( http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/ ) or the Fram SureDrain with a hose that needs to be attached to drain oil ( http://rustysoffroad.com/article_framsuredrain.html )?

I have been using the SureDrain in my MDX for about 5 years, and it works fine. The only thing I don't like about it, is that it takes longer to drain all the oil out. On the plus side, you can direct the hose into your drain container, eliminating the mess that could sometimes happen if oil drips on the frame, exhaust, etc.

I am thinking about switching to the Fumoto valve on the G35. Theoretically, the time to drain all the oil out should be the same as draining with the regular plug without the need to remove the plug. Added bonus: no possibility of stripping threads or drain plug head, and no need to ever replace crush washers.
 

Last edited by mgG35S; May 27, 2008 at 02:15 PM.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 02:49 PM
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I purchased it for the G35, but I've decided that I will let the dealer change my oil every 3750 since they do it for free. Free is free. I am on my 2nd oil change interval for my Nissan Quest. I will be installing the Fumoto Valve on the Quest at the next oil change.
 
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