Performance & 19's or 20's
Performance & 19's or 20's
The time has come to put wheels on my '08 G35S 6MT. Besides looks, my main concern is loss of performance. I plan on getting 3 piece forged wheels. Do you guys think that 20s will still have that much more performance loss than 19s even with 3 piece forged wheels?
If 19's I'm going with 19x9 (f) & 19x10 (r)
If 20's I'm going with 20x8.5 (f) & 20x10 (r)
I've narrowed my wheel choice down to:
WORK VS-XX -OR- DPE S20
If 19's I'm going with 19x9 (f) & 19x10 (r)
If 20's I'm going with 20x8.5 (f) & 20x10 (r)
I've narrowed my wheel choice down to:
WORK VS-XX -OR- DPE S20
what's the weight difference between the 19 and 20?
also tires for 20's will be heavier too..
what kind of performance are you referring to? most likely 19's will be better, and depending on what, 18's may even be better too...
food for thought
also tires for 20's will be heavier too..
what kind of performance are you referring to? most likely 19's will be better, and depending on what, 18's may even be better too...
food for thought
Personally I think you won't notice the difference for daily driving. If you were going to track it, then you would want 18s and wouldn't want to use your Work/DPE anyways. Buy whichever you think looks better on the car.
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Thanks for your replies.
I haven't found out the weights for both wheel choices yet (I'll find out this weekend), but I was thinking since they were 3 piece forged wheels that would be close to the same as stock.
For those of you who don't feel a difference: What kind of wheels do you have (size, brand, weight,etc)?
I haven't found out the weights for both wheel choices yet (I'll find out this weekend), but I was thinking since they were 3 piece forged wheels that would be close to the same as stock.
For those of you who don't feel a difference: What kind of wheels do you have (size, brand, weight,etc)?
before spending major $$$ on those wheels, make sure you're 100% comfortable with the offsets
for example, if you buy something that's 'flush', and then decide to buy lowering springs, you won't be 'flush' anymore
if you can emulate the aftermarket wheel + tires to be the same as stock wheel + tires, overall effect should be the same, but I hardly doubt it since your aftermarket choices are much wider than stock (tires are heavy)
but to remedy this, add more power
for example, if you buy something that's 'flush', and then decide to buy lowering springs, you won't be 'flush' anymore
if you can emulate the aftermarket wheel + tires to be the same as stock wheel + tires, overall effect should be the same, but I hardly doubt it since your aftermarket choices are much wider than stock (tires are heavy)
but to remedy this, add more power
Originally Posted by coldcut
Thanks for your replies.
I haven't found out the weights for both wheel choices yet (I'll find out this weekend), but I was thinking since they were 3 piece forged wheels that would be close to the same as stock.
For those of you who don't feel a difference: What kind of wheels do you have (size, brand, weight,etc)?
I haven't found out the weights for both wheel choices yet (I'll find out this weekend), but I was thinking since they were 3 piece forged wheels that would be close to the same as stock.
For those of you who don't feel a difference: What kind of wheels do you have (size, brand, weight,etc)?
Just pick the wheel you think looks better for daily driving and stop worrying about getting every bit of speed out of your sedan, otherwise you are in the wrong car.
Originally Posted by Mike@RiversideInfiniti
bigger = heavier = more inertia = more performance loss.
You could, theoretically, make up for it with a lighter tire, but that'll cost you even more.
You could, theoretically, make up for it with a lighter tire, but that'll cost you even more.
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