So now I have the Fujita Intake, Stillen Pipes, Stillen HFC's, HKS Muffler, for performance...I Dynoed my car at 256whp and 222lbs of torque....People have told mee that stock it gets 265whp...WTF...How did i lose 9whp from intake exhaust hfcs??

I am a power junkie...if i sell everything on my car, what steps should i take to get the most power being N/A...

My Idea:

Stillen CAI or Injen CAI or K&N .... Which Intake??

ECU...I really need tuning...What choices do I have so that I wont have to send my ecu somewhere??

Headers...In need of these babys...what headers are out for our cars that i can actually buy??

Does Crank pulley give me power??

Does black betty really make a difference??

thanks,
chris cary

 

Well you are basically going with my setup lmao
Stillen looks like is going to give the most power (i have injens)
Technosquare reflash and dyno tune
There are only stillen and IMPUL headers (i'd wait for something else to come out)
The crank pully is on back order but it does give a little bit of power. Just less stress on the crank cuz it's lighter. Better rev responce.

I have the black betty grounding kit and my shifting is amazing. Makes the best difference for autos. Shifting is smoother, a bit faster, and crisp. You'll feel it better in D. Downshifting doesn't lag like it used to. It's a great mod.

And get a fast intentions exhaust lmao

 

As i said earlier titan with all those mods there something wrong with your dyno numbers or you badly need a tune, i would stay with what you have, throw on the Stillen 3G and then tech flash and be all set with it, with this i would expect you to have around 280-290whp..

 

Dyno numbers are worthless and can be easily skewed either up or down. The only "true" measurement of HP is ET/trap speed in the 1/4. Take it to the track and find out.

 

Thank you for your advice...It really helped me...I completely agree with you...

That is some great advice...but i need the dyno sheet for myself...i want thoose numbers to be in the 300s...

 

For mine idea:

1) Mod yur car before going to TS
2) The best Intake so far i see
- Stock,K&N 3rd Gen,JWT POP and Injen Cai..It's depend.Mine idea is don't try anything out of this!!!! you'll waste.
3) Take off your HKS muffler and put Stillen FULL Cat-Back System on
4) No need Stillen Header.They're bad!!!!!
- Since you had HFC on if you add Header.It will be very LOUD but if you like it that way so go for it! I recommend IMPUL same as G35Robby said but too PRICEY!!!!!
5) Black Betty is very good product.They are good for 5AT.Your Radio will be louder at the same level that you adjust.Highly Recommended!!!
6) The crank pully is too Risky with Minimal Gain. NO NEED!!! Read G37.com you'll see.
7) After you got all of these list installed.It's time for TS!!!!
GL

 

awesome thanks bro

 

Bringing a thread back from the dead..... curious if you ever got it sorted out Titan??

 

you cannot compare dyno results from one car to the next. Atmospheric conditions, elevation, different dyno's, even the same dyno with different calibrations change the way your power reads.

The ONLY way to have dyno numbers be valid are runs done in the same conditions, on the same dyno, virtually back to back before and after mods to truly get an accurate result.

 

before you do a reflash....did you reset your ECU?

 

It appears that the Black Betty like 99.99% of the other kits supply a new negative cable to the battery.

Two things to consider. One is your car basically runs off of the alternator, once started the negative battery cable charges the battery. Other characteristics such as the capacitance and resistance of the battery has some effects of course.

The second thing to remember is that on 07 and up sedans and probably coupes the negative battery lead has a current sensor that is used to set the voltage level of the alternators output. If output from this sensor is not seen then it goes to a default output based on the characteristics of the IC. If you install a second negative battery cable you have either modified the output of the sensor or eliminated it all together.

 

Forget the headers and BB kit. the first is more trouble than it's worth and the BB kit doesn't add any hp. save your money and get an Injen CAI and a proper tune. I would'nt be surprised if your whp jumps up to 280-290whp.

Mods will make you lose hp without a proper tune.

 

If I were to pick one of the mods I think it would have to be an intake. I think one thing even if going with intakes that needs to be considered is at what rpm and loading will most of the driving take place? It is actually possible to have a performance decrease in the users normal operating range while another will witness and performance increase for theirs. Both can have the same dyno numbers but have very different real world results based on their driving habits.

 

Intakes and exhausts normally increase whp in the upper powerband, however a decrease in torque down at low RPMs is also seen. In a racing situation, engines are almost always in the upper part of the powerband (hence why we down shift when slowing down) since that's where all the power is. The stock ECU maps are not optimized to make full use of such mods, which is why we see very little whp gained when a tune is not performed. But I do agree with you when it comes to driving habits. People who drive faster tend to notice an increase in power while those who cruise around will notice a decrease. Just depends on how you drive and where in the engines powerband you drive.