^+1 nice detailed diy, but i think you meant to add pics that are missing in this post.

 

It's all in the FSM in the CO (Cooling System) section.

 

^ aha thats why... and i was here thinking you were gifted to know all these facts about our cars

 

^ thanks for the share, will be doing this on the weekend. How long to bleed the system?

 

hey where do you get replacement O-rings from?

are they readily available?

 

^ thanks, nice to know the approx time so i can do this when i have more time and do it right, 7qts is a good amount of new fluid to add.

 

What type of fluid are u folks using or planning to use..?

- Std green Nissan OEM coolant..
- After market generic green coolant
- The new Blue colored Nissan OEM coolant
- Universal transparent coolant

I have the 2006 g35 C, which came with the green coolant and im looking to replace it, but not sure on which coolant to use.

I want to stay with the green, so that means either I get the Nissan jug for $20-25 a gallon or some how find a generic green concentrate coolant, which for the life of me cant find in any of the auto stores in Toronto.

I could switch to the new blue coolant, but according to the tech bulletin #NTB09-040a they sell it as 50/50, which = 2 gallon bottles * $20 or $25. They have the concentrate version too, but apparently have warned against adding any water to it.

Thats a lot of money for a coolant.

Finally, dont want to use the universal ones

so what gives...any input guys and girls...

 

Guys I'm thinking of doing this sometime soon.

Now what's so hard about bleeding the air out of the system? I'm guessing as the video shows you open the bleeder valve, let everything drain out and make sure it's all out, I'll leave it open for an hr.

The slowly fill up the radiator again until fluid comes out the bleeder valve then tighten up and add some more, is there anything I'm missing here?

 

motorking,

Just curious to know if prestone coolant is any better than OEM nissan/Infiniti Coolant.

 

^ Thanks for the feedback

 

Finally did the coolant change today and thought id share a quick DIY that might help.

Firstly loosen the 2 10mm bolts on the coolant reservoir, unclamp the clamps on the hose going to the radiator and pull it off and take out the reservoir. Dump its coolant into a container and rinse with clean water.

Then like treacherous said before NO need to take the bottom cover off, when you get underneath the car you will see a big hole in the under cover on the front passenger side, place a container underneath this hole and just put your philips head screwdriver in there and loosen it, (MAKE SURE FLUID/COOLANT IS COOL BEFORE DOING THIS!) as soon as you loosen the screw the coolant starts coming out and you want to take out the screw completely to allow quick drain so wearing nitrile gloves would be a good idea.

Then you want to take off the radiator cap which would cause the coolant to start pouring MUCH more quickly, once its all out replace the o-ring on the screw(mine was good as well so i reused it) and put it back in, its a plastic screw so stop tightening it as soon as you feel its at its max, it will stop turning after a while as long you dont force it.

Then using a proper size hex key take out the air relief valve screw which is near the driver side firewall next to the brake master cylinder, then take out the air relief philips screw on the radiator on the driver side which allows the bleeding process to be SO much quicker!(i had R2C intakes so all i had to do was to take out the filter and the screw as accessible if you have stock you might have to remove the front portion of the stock intakes)

Reinstall the reservoir and attach all hoses and fill with coolant/water MIX to max and then SLOWLY start pouring in to radiator to allow air to seep out of the relief plugs (if you pour too fast then the coolant might shoot out of the air relief valves).

After about a little more than one bottle of coolant/water 50/50 MIX the mix starter to slowly pour out of the radiator relief plug so i reinstalled the bleeder screw and tightened it. Then continue to fill until the mix starts coming out of the other relief plug and once it does screw back in the plug with new o-rings if yours are bad.

Then continue to fill upto the neck of the radiator but not to the max, start car and let it idle to allow the coolant to circulate and force out the remaining air from the system through the radiator in forms of bubbles, once the coolant level drops add more and let the car idle until the coolant stops 'bubbling'.

Turn off the car and make sure the coolant is topped off and put back the radiator cap and take it for a 10 min spin to allow the system to heat up and coolant to flow through completely. Let the car cool down and check coolant level and assure its full. Keep checking the coolant level for the next 2-3days and refill as necessary which is completely normal.

FYI: If you can hear water running when you accelerate or when you press teh accelerator at idle, the n you have air in your system and need to loosen the relief plugs again and allow the air to seep out.

G/L

EDIT: just realized its not much of a 'mini' DIY as i was expecting but hopefully it helps someone, also just to state the coolant had turned a bit pale/dirty so it was time for a change as im guessing nissan does not put in extended life coolant from factory, i put in Prestone 50/50 Long Life which is supposed to be good for 150,000mi or 5 years. My plan is to check and change every ~60k miles or 4 years now.

 

Thanks for this DIY! No pictures? I still havent done this because I dont know where exactly all of the screws and plugs are located.

 

I can snap pics of the screws and plugs for you tomorrow.

 

Thanks man! I would really appreciate it!

 

Its not a problem but i couldnt do it today cause it was raining cats and dogs here even though the forecaster said only 20% chance of rain Ill get tomorrow if its dry else monday for sure.