Mayas are not forged they are cast 2 piece wheels. they are heavy too.
Not all Volks and Works are forged some are cast. For the ones they do sell as forged usually only the hoops are forged and the centers cast.

DPE, Iforged, HRE....makes fully forged wheels.

 

I have been happy with my $699 set of rims. I researched various, more expensive brands similar in style to my HP EVO's and saw nothing that I preferred. Plus for that price, I could buy 3-4 sets before spending the $$$$ you would for the brands mentioned above. I have nothing against folks who prefer the higher priced rims and they do look good, but I will never take my car to the drag strip and consider the weight effect a non-issue. It just depends on what you prefer.

 

+1 on this, you WILL be happier w some wheels of this caliber. The finish and most def the fit, will be better and more satisfying. Get them maya's you mentioned - some of those others you mentioned are like shinin' a light at the sun

 

I guess I'm either a cheapskate or a contrarian. Personally, I see no real need to fork out $2K+ for wheels if you aren't going racing. The performance differences are minimal at best, sort of like the difference in the way the car feels when you have a passenger in the car. If you like how it looks, and looks are your primary focus, then get what YOU want.

Besides, if you drive like an idiot, hit a pothole and bust up a rim, which would **** you off more...replacing a $250 cast rim or a $700 forged? Metallurgy cannot overcome the basic rules of physics, so no matter how much you may think a cast wheel is stronger, they ALL will bend, crack, or break w/the right amount of pressure.

 

At what weight do you notice or lose a significant amount of performance ?

 

I just e-mailed the manufacturer and they told me their 20" wheel weighs 36lb. Is that bad?

 

that's like 10+lbs more than the stock 19s, per wheel! lol

i'll let you decide if that's "bad" or not

very very very few work wheels are forged. mine are cast, but still strong as fvck! you've held them all before and you know that they're pretty damn light!

the difference...hehe...

axis wheel that cracked...





work wheel that ONLY BENT at 160mph collision...

 

thats not a fair comparison however because of the wheel design, the lips on the works bend in because they extend so far past the spokes, the axis wheels cracked because the spokes go almost to the lip of the wheel, where the force is transfered to the spokes. I've seen TE-37's crack in the same spots as the axis wheels, and its due to the design, not the manufacturing technique

 

Bet those are Axis Hiros too...known for cracking....the spokes are much thicker on the works too...

 

under what circumstances did those te-37's crack, though? did they just crack from daily driving?

another reason why i'll never have volks (that's a joke..but really, i'll never own a set of volk wheels )

 

daily driven te-37 17's on a prelude from preludeonline.com back in the day. I would bet work emotion's would do the same thing since there isn't a lip to them.

 

why do you say that? is that to say that all one piece cast wheels with no lip will crack, then? how long were they driven on for?

 

I'm saying that they will crack before the lip bends, like it did on the S1's because of the design, regardless if they are forged or cast. When the wheel takes a hit, the outer lip absorbs a majority of the force, and this gets transfered to the spokes if they are close to the lip. On big lipped wheels, the lip doesn't have that support so it bends upwards, thats why those works are only bent

 

well....ive been doing alot of research, looking at alot of brands and takin a look at diffrent scenarios that everyone has mentioned on diffrent forums where wheels have been damaged or cracked etc and i have come to a conclusion

the fact of the matter is i will not be driving anywhere near 160 miles per hour....i dont even know a highway where i can possibly go that fast in all of new york unless if im going upstate or to long island. and even then i still never go past 100 cops are swarming out here. even still thats not even a smart thing for me because my license is already in danger of being suspended.

secondly i have looked at all kinds of rims in the past weeks and checked out their details. as i mentioned i was relly interested in the OZs and the Mayas. but once again fact of the matter is those rims would end up costing 3000+ without tires ....and they arent even lighter then the stock rims. The OZs are 29 pounds. granted that im sure they have superb quality...but they arent even that hot..ive seen better

alot of you guys seem to be in love with those Volks rims...yea they may be great and light and good for racing and what not, but im not a racer, and personally, the design of most volks rims that i have seen kinda sucks...

by comparison, from what i have read though maybe im wrong, SSR makes rims that are just as light if not lighter then the Volks and they have their own proprietary manufacturing process to make multi peice rims, and have some pretty good designs as well. all of that and they would costs me about 2Gs with tires. they dont exactly have the dsesign im lookin for so i havent decided to go with those yet, but just a thought.

anyways tho from what i have seen it seems that much like everything else, unless if your racing the best approach to buying rims is balance. there are plenty of rims that you can get for good prices. assuming you have a g35, i would say the sweet spot for buying some rims would be about 2000 dollars.
it a good car, luxury vehicle, and if you invested in a luxury vehicle you should always give it the quality it needs. but its not a 100,000 dollar car, and if your a college student like me or a young adult that doesnt have a rich mommy and daddy or 6 figure job then 4k+ on some rims is kinda unnecesary.

like someone else said 90%(or more) of the people in the world cant tell you the diffrence between some good looking quality rims that cost 400 a peice and some Racing inspired FOrged bla bla bla bla watever they do them rims that costs 1500 a peice ..

im just gonna get some good rims, that weigh no more then 29pounds, and cost no more then 2G's... if i see something lighter then stock fine and if i dont...lets be real 16 pounds is not that serious ...i feel no diffrence driving my car with 2 average sized passengers and again i am not racing


by the way if you dont know what makes the jeans cost 300 dollars then dont criticise someone for buying them, beleive it or not there are good reasons for that....5000 dollars tho? for escada jeans? thats just dumb

 

You don't have to justify a thing to us. Almost all aftermarket wheels are going to be heavier than stock becuase people purchase them in wider widths. Its not an apples to apples comparison anymore. SSR makes decent wheels, with multipiece designs that have similar manufacturing techniques to volks etc with a cast center and forged outer barrel, a good choice if you are on somewhat of a budget. If you can find a set for $2000 with tires, then jump on it, a new set from japan in custom offsets cost almost as much as a set of volks already, so they aren't cheap wheels by any means. The quality of the wheel isn't just in the manufacturing technique but also in the finishing. I can spot a quality wheel from a cheaper imitation just by the lip and paint. Good wheels have polished lips and cheaper 1 piece wheels have machined lips which don't hold a candle to the shine of a set of multipiece wheels. The paint usually doesn't hold up as long either so you may end up paying more in the end just to get them refinished. Its up to you, but I'd rather roll OEM 19's than a imitation 1 piece wheel