Weird question I know, but I've been wondering if it'll be possible to put the OEM Ray's 19" x 8.5"s on the front? Why one might ask??? I've found a guy that I can send the OEM's to that will widen them in 1/2" increments. He'll do the 8 1/2's up to 9 1'2" for $250.

That's what got me to thinking. My rears are totally perfect, no scratches, curb rash, nothing. Whereas the fronts both have one very minor curb rash. I was thinking of sending him the fronts and having the rash fixed along with moving them from 8" to 9 1/2".

Ideas anyone? What's the spacing/offset difference between the OEM Ray's front vs. rear (if any)? Would I need to run spacers on the front and/or rear should I do this?

What lead to this to begin with you might ask? Time for the first set of new rears of course!!!:icon:

 

someone has asked this question before... not a bad read..


https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...t=widen+wheels


Search is your friend...

 

no it's not, I hate that guy!

 

me too...

OP yes the rears can be put up front and the fronts car be widend for the rear... but 9 1/2 isnt wide enough go with 10.5 in the rear

 

its bad to widen wheels becasue the oem wheels are forged, then you take a way tthe strength, of the forged part. NOT A GOOD IDEA, ESPECAILLY WITH A FORGED RIM, THER IS NO WAY TO DO IT CORRECTLY WITH OUT RUING THE INTEGRITY OF THE RIM, SINCE IT WILL HAVE TO BE CUT, AND WELDED BACK TO GEETHER

 

^^^^ its been done befor with no problems

 

The part of the wheel that is cut and welded sees very little rotational torque or stress during use. This mod is very safe to do if done correctly

 

Beebo,

The stock rims are 8" f and 8 1/2" r. What I'm talking about is moving the 8 1/2" rims to the front and widening the rears to 9 1/2". Was just wondering if the offset on the stock rims is different F to R? And yes... I'm being a bit lazy by not going to the garage and measuring the darned things. Just that I had a back procedure done Monday and am not supposed to be bending over AT ALL for a few days.

 

mwarsh1,

Actually it's not a big deal these days to not only widen steel, but alloy as well. With computer truing it's a breeze. (so to speak)

Of course you need to have a wheel that has enough flat area to work with. IE; can't be tapered, must be flat. Don't want to cut off the bead area either.


That being said... SURE moving the centers or widening and narrowing of steel wheels is easier, and has been done for decades. The alloys however are a new art and for $250 per wheel, ($500 total) is an alternative to 4 new ones at over $1500 for sure. Not to mention the added performance/style value of more rubber on the rear.