tpms re-learning pressure sensor ID with no special tools
#16
11-18-2009, 07:52 AM
Thanks....
I quote from said link...
I still wonder what KOEO stands for ?
And the way I read this, is that the grounding wire is momentarily disconnected.... I reiterate.
That would mean that it is constantly grounded just prior to, and during the procedure. True or False ???
I have access to a TPS wake up tool... so that's not the problem, but I just want to make sure I understand this correctly, so that I don't accidentally fry any electrical components. I believe I read somewhere above, there's only 5V, but still, that's enough to burn up some smaller circuitry if it's under a constant load.
I quote from said link...
Start by checking if the vehicle is equipped with a TPMS connector (1 wire connection / white connector) linked to the OBDII electric wiring underneath the dashboard (figure 1, left - note that the following example applies to a 2006 MURANO).
Procedure:
1. Use a jumper to link the TPMS connector to ground (figure 2).
2. KOEO
3. Momentarily disconnect and plug back in the TPMS connector (5 to 6 times)
4. The TMPS warning light will blink when the system starts initiating.
5. Start the reset procedure with the left-front tire, then the right-front tire, then the right-rear tire, and end with the left-rear tire
6. Once the system has completed the reset procedure, the TPMS warning light on the dashboard will automatically stop flashing
Procedure:
1. Use a jumper to link the TPMS connector to ground (figure 2).
2. KOEO
3. Momentarily disconnect and plug back in the TPMS connector (5 to 6 times)
4. The TMPS warning light will blink when the system starts initiating.
5. Start the reset procedure with the left-front tire, then the right-front tire, then the right-rear tire, and end with the left-rear tire
6. Once the system has completed the reset procedure, the TPMS warning light on the dashboard will automatically stop flashing
And the way I read this, is that the grounding wire is momentarily disconnected.... I reiterate.
1. Use a jumper to link the TPMS connector to ground (figure 2).
2. KOEO
3. Momentarily disconnect and plug back in the TPMS connector (5 to 6 times)
2. KOEO
3. Momentarily disconnect and plug back in the TPMS connector (5 to 6 times)
I have access to a TPS wake up tool... so that's not the problem, but I just want to make sure I understand this correctly, so that I don't accidentally fry any electrical components. I believe I read somewhere above, there's only 5V, but still, that's enough to burn up some smaller circuitry if it's under a constant load.
#17
11-18-2009, 09:27 AM
KOEO = Key On Engine Off
I have access to a Consult II
but for those that don't this is a great way
http://www.auto-tool-shop.com/launch...rnet-p-40.html
I have access to a Consult II
but for those that don't this is a great way
http://www.auto-tool-shop.com/launch...rnet-p-40.html
Last edited by Glex25; 11-18-2009 at 09:33 AM.
#18
11-19-2009, 03:47 PM
#21
02-21-2010, 09:00 AM
#22
03-17-2010, 08:39 PM
The OTC site simply states this as the procedure:
"Tire Pressure Reset Tool for Nissan
This tool is designed to extinguish the Tire Pressure Warning Light on 2003 and newer Nissan vehicles with TPM Reset Connector. The connector end of the cable mates to the vehicle connector found behind the DLC connector under the dash. The alligator clip is clipped onto the metal bracket that holds the DLC connector. Once connected and the ignition is turned on, the tool trigger is pressed 5 times within 10 seconds causing the warning light to start flashing. With the tool disconnected, the vehicle can be started and driven over 30 mph until the light stops flashing, which completes the procedure. "
"Tire Pressure Reset Tool for Nissan
This tool is designed to extinguish the Tire Pressure Warning Light on 2003 and newer Nissan vehicles with TPM Reset Connector. The connector end of the cable mates to the vehicle connector found behind the DLC connector under the dash. The alligator clip is clipped onto the metal bracket that holds the DLC connector. Once connected and the ignition is turned on, the tool trigger is pressed 5 times within 10 seconds causing the warning light to start flashing. With the tool disconnected, the vehicle can be started and driven over 30 mph until the light stops flashing, which completes the procedure. "
#23
03-29-2010, 07:30 PM
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#24
03-31-2010, 02:46 PM
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#26
11-04-2010, 01:26 PM
TMPS goodies
The manual method (explained at the top of this thread) look like a good procedure, although I have not tried it myself.
I just purchase a used set of stock G35 rims for my winter tires. They came off a 2003, so they don't have TPMS sensors. I checked with my tire shop and they said "there is no federal law that prohibits you from removing the TPMS sensors" He said this is different then the laws that apply to air bags, safety restraints, etc., which prohibit you from tampering with those systems. He said the worst thing that can happen by not having the TPMS sensors is the annoying light on the dashboard. Since I'm just running w/o the TPMS sensors for the winter months, I might be able to handle that.
That said, I decided to do some searching for lower-cost TPMS sensors, and a home mecahnic's reset tool. Here is what I found, in case anyone else is interested:
**DISCLAIMER - I have not tried any of these product, and I am not endorsing any of these products. The info/links are provided for your information.**
Orange TPMS Sensors (~ $35 each at Amazon):
TPMS Reset tool (for putting the TPMS into learn mode; ~ $22 at Amazon):
TPMS troubleshooting/initialization tools (to activate each sensor after you put the system into learning mode):
I just purchase a used set of stock G35 rims for my winter tires. They came off a 2003, so they don't have TPMS sensors. I checked with my tire shop and they said "there is no federal law that prohibits you from removing the TPMS sensors" He said this is different then the laws that apply to air bags, safety restraints, etc., which prohibit you from tampering with those systems. He said the worst thing that can happen by not having the TPMS sensors is the annoying light on the dashboard. Since I'm just running w/o the TPMS sensors for the winter months, I might be able to handle that.
That said, I decided to do some searching for lower-cost TPMS sensors, and a home mecahnic's reset tool. Here is what I found, in case anyone else is interested:
**DISCLAIMER - I have not tried any of these product, and I am not endorsing any of these products. The info/links are provided for your information.**
Orange TPMS Sensors (~ $35 each at Amazon):
TPMS Reset tool (for putting the TPMS into learn mode; ~ $22 at Amazon):
TPMS troubleshooting/initialization tools (to activate each sensor after you put the system into learning mode):
ATEQ VT-10 (from RevolutionSupplyCompany.com for $125):
http://revolutionsupply.com/VT10.aspx
http://revolutionsupply.com/VT10.aspx
K-Tool KTI71990 TIPS Tool TPMS (from eBay for ~$75):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...em=#vi-content
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...em=#vi-content
#27
04-13-2011, 11:34 PM
#28
08-13-2012, 03:52 PM
Hey guys, Sorry to bring a dead thread back but I need some help. I recently installed some new wheels on my 2006 G sedan. I used some iforged tpms brackets to mount the sensors in the wheels. I have no issues getting the car in learning mode, after driving 10 minutes the light goes solid and stays on, even after filling the tires back up to the recommended levels. any ideas on what the issue could be?
#29
08-20-2013, 09:28 AM
The first time you use the connector, you have to dig it out of the OBD2 harness.
Remove the lower dash panel. Simply remove the 1 screw by the hood pop lever and then pull down on the trim panel from the steering column. When the panel comes down, look at the OBD2 connector and harness. You'll see a single white plug taped into the harness. Cut it out of the tape, tuck it down so you can reach it and put the panel back.
The tool linked earlier in the thread works great, but if you don't want to spend $21 for the convienence, a paper clip stuck into the back of the connector works good too.
Set your tire pressures to what is shown on page 17 of the FSM
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Seda...5_Sedan/wt.pdf
Turn the car ignition to ON but do not start the car. Within 10 seconds, ground the test connector 6-7 times. This is done by pulling the trigger on the tool, or grounding the paper clip. There is a good ground point on the firewall to touch the connector too or ground the tool to. The TPMS light will begin to flash if you do it correctly. Start the car and confirm the TPMS light continues to flash beyond 60 seconds. The TPMS is in learning mode now. No drive around at 25MPH for 10-15 minutes to register the sensors.
If it works correctly, the light should go off. It shoud then come back on due to one of the tires being very low. Top the tires off and the light should go off for good.
If the buzzer sounds, and the light stays solid, something is wrong. Try the procedure again
Code Reading
To run though the codes, ground the TPMS connector to a ground point and keep it constant. After a few seconds, the TPMS light will Go solid. It will then go off and then begin to blink the codes. A long pulse is the first digit, short pulses are the second digit. So 2 long pulses and 2 short pulses would be code 22. When the codes are complete, the light will stay solid again, and then begin to display the codes again.
Chart of codes on page 23
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Seda...5_Sedan/wt.pdf
To erase the codes, turn the ignition off while the codes are still flashing with the pin still grounded.
This is all from trial and error and searching the net for a while to try and understand the TPMS system. With our cars approaching 7+ years old, the TPMS sensors are near the end of their life. With the codes feature, we can at least identify the dead sensor, replace it, and reregister on our own. Good luck
Remove the lower dash panel. Simply remove the 1 screw by the hood pop lever and then pull down on the trim panel from the steering column. When the panel comes down, look at the OBD2 connector and harness. You'll see a single white plug taped into the harness. Cut it out of the tape, tuck it down so you can reach it and put the panel back.
The tool linked earlier in the thread works great, but if you don't want to spend $21 for the convienence, a paper clip stuck into the back of the connector works good too.
Set your tire pressures to what is shown on page 17 of the FSM
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Seda...5_Sedan/wt.pdf
Front − Left 34 PSI
Front − Right 31 PSI
Rear − Right 29 PSI
Rear − Left 26 PSI
Front − Right 31 PSI
Rear − Right 29 PSI
Rear − Left 26 PSI
If it works correctly, the light should go off. It shoud then come back on due to one of the tires being very low. Top the tires off and the light should go off for good.
If the buzzer sounds, and the light stays solid, something is wrong. Try the procedure again
Code Reading
Chart of codes on page 23
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Seda...5_Sedan/wt.pdf
Code
15 Front-left tire pressure drops to * kPa (* kg/cm2 , * psi) or less.
16 Front-right tire pressure drops to * kPa (* kg/cm2 , * psi) or less.
17 Rear-right tire pressure drops to * kPa (* kg/cm2 , * psi) or less.
18 Rear-left tire pressure drops to * kPa (* kg/cm2 , * psi) or less.
21 Transmitter no data (front - left)
22 Transmitter no data (front - right)
23 Transmitter no data (rear - right)
24 Transmitter no data (rear - left)
31 Transmitter checksum error (front - left)
32 Transmitter checksum error (front - right)
33 Transmitter checksum error (rear - right)
34 Transmitter checksum error (rear - left)
35 Transmitter pressure data error (front - left)
36 Transmitter pressure data error (front - right)
37 Transmitter pressure data error (rear - right)
38 Transmitter pressure data error (rear - left)
41 Transmitter function code error (front - left)
42 Transmitter function code error (front - right)
43 Transmitter function code error (rear - right)
44 Transmitter function code error (rear - left)
45 Transmitter battery voltage low (front - left)
46 Transmitter battery voltage low (front - right)
47 Transmitter battery voltage low (rear - right)
48 Transmitter battery voltage low (rear - left)
52 Vehicle speed signal WT-29
15 Front-left tire pressure drops to * kPa (* kg/cm2 , * psi) or less.
16 Front-right tire pressure drops to * kPa (* kg/cm2 , * psi) or less.
17 Rear-right tire pressure drops to * kPa (* kg/cm2 , * psi) or less.
18 Rear-left tire pressure drops to * kPa (* kg/cm2 , * psi) or less.
21 Transmitter no data (front - left)
22 Transmitter no data (front - right)
23 Transmitter no data (rear - right)
24 Transmitter no data (rear - left)
31 Transmitter checksum error (front - left)
32 Transmitter checksum error (front - right)
33 Transmitter checksum error (rear - right)
34 Transmitter checksum error (rear - left)
35 Transmitter pressure data error (front - left)
36 Transmitter pressure data error (front - right)
37 Transmitter pressure data error (rear - right)
38 Transmitter pressure data error (rear - left)
41 Transmitter function code error (front - left)
42 Transmitter function code error (front - right)
43 Transmitter function code error (rear - right)
44 Transmitter function code error (rear - left)
45 Transmitter battery voltage low (front - left)
46 Transmitter battery voltage low (front - right)
47 Transmitter battery voltage low (rear - right)
48 Transmitter battery voltage low (rear - left)
52 Vehicle speed signal WT-29
This is all from trial and error and searching the net for a while to try and understand the TPMS system. With our cars approaching 7+ years old, the TPMS sensors are near the end of their life. With the codes feature, we can at least identify the dead sensor, replace it, and reregister on our own. Good luck
Last edited by Mustang5L5; 03-26-2014 at 01:49 PM.
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#30
03-23-2014, 02:25 PM
