Well, as i said all of my money is going into these Work rims. They're pricey . I'll have my car lower in the future but it's just no the right time for now (not enough money ). Anyways, which tire sizes do you prefer on the front (19x9.5) and rear (19x10.5 or 19x11, Work also comes with 11 width, i might want 11 to give it a wide body look from behind).

 

ooh well since ur not too low, the front i would do a 245 and the rear maybe a 265.. it would give u SOME stretch but not TOO much, bear in mind that i dont like HUGE tires, but since u said u want a wide look in the back maybe do a 275, if u do a 275 then do 255 in the front, but opinions will differ, but you should be fine with 255 and 275.. im hoping the other members will chime in on the safety issues as well

 

Pretty much, if you do 255/35-20 in the front, and 275/30-20 in the back, thats is as close to factory spec that you can get for 20's. (im talking about diamiter wise) the width you can play around with, but make sure you do your research on the sidewall hight (the middle number.)

I am running

255/35-20 front
285/30-20 rear

 

You can run a 305 wide tire on a 10.5 inch wheel with no issues. (Referring to the fitments of tires on the rims and neglecting the issue of clearance).

 

ooh ok well there u go OP, u CAN do a 305 in the rear and no safety issues, so ur good

 

Well I was just referring to the fact that a 10.5 inch wheel is wide enough for 305's. But running 305's on the Coupe requires a less aggressive offset with, depending on the offsets, a little more negative camber.

 

I have an offtopic question, and i dont want to start a thread on it, would spacers of a g37 fit onto a g35?

 

They have the same bolt-pattern.

 

Thanks to all of you guys. It seems like 255 for the front and 275 is good enough for the looks and safety issues.

will the rears still be ok with 275 on 11" width? And if i go with 11" width, what offset should i get? Is it still in the teens? Is there any rubbing with 11" width + offsets <10 when im running with stock height (no fender rollings)

 

If you're going to keep the car for a while and want to save your wheel bearings, stick to the stock offset. I was able to get the exact stock width and offset for my sedan with some BBS wheels. You may be surprised what you can find. I just got lucky to find the exact wheels I wanted were already the correct specs. Do research on the "scrub angle" and you'll see why retaining the stock offset is beneficial for best performance, unless you want to modify your suspension completely to fit your wheels. If the offset is only 5mm off one way or another, it will still cause bearings to wear unevenly one side or the other, but not as quickly or as bad as going off by 10mm or more. Spacers are just kinda cheesy, IMO. If you can avoid it while getting some nice wheels, check it out. I don't know what the stock offset is for coupes, but you'll probably find it here somewhere, or call 2 tire shops to see if you get the same answer from both.

 

wow, this is the first time that i hear the offsets will kill the wheel bearings. Can you or someone else tell me why please? Of course the factory offset is best for performance and other benefits as well, but i dont think the offsets will affect the wheel bearings. I think that if I go with aftermarket wheels and stock suspension (stock height), it just doesn't give a flush look on the car.

 

The whole suspension geometry is designed around the wheel offset. In somewhat simplistic terms, once the suspension designer decides what kind of wheel bearing/hub assembly they will use, the offset is calculated to spread the load that the wheel supports evenly across the wheel bearing. The load is not only the weight of the car, but also cornering loads. As was mentioned by others, too little offset will shift the load to the outside of the wheel bearing, and too much offset will shift the load to the inside of the wheel bearing, causing premature failure. But bearing loading/wear is only one of many variables that are affected by offset. Castor is the angle through the suspension kingpin bearings. These are the bearings that the wheel/tire turns on when you move the wheel left or right. The angle through the kingpins (Castor) is designed to end up on the ground in the middle of the tire's contact patch. If you move the offset very far this scrub radius will be adversly affected. This will make steering more difficult, and less responsive because you won't be using all of the tire's contact patch to steer with. The length of steering components like A arms also depend on wheel offset, so that camber changes as the wheel/tire moves up and down rotate around the center of the wheel/tire. All of these features of suspension design rely on where the centerline of the wheel/tire is. So moving that point very far will not only adversly affect wheel bearing life, but wear on other suspension components as well. I have read that you can get away with + or - 5mm from the factory designed offset before you start to cause damage and adversly affect the handling of your car.

The offset of the wheel places the weight of the wheel directly over the center of the wheel bearings. When you shift the center line of the wheel over one way or another, you put more pressure on one side of the wheel bearings, instead of having everything balanced on both sides. Imagine holding two suitcases, with one weighing ten lbs more than the other, or the heel of a shoe being slightly off to the left or the right, instead of on the center of the shoe. Parts are forced to be off balance, but only to a small degree. It's something that will wear more over time than right away, like a car that is slightly out of alignment wearing the tires unevenly.

 

Thanks for your great info. Seems like i have to get new suspension (new setup) for new wheels. Does anyone know how much for the wheel bearings?