Question? Fender Cutting VS Fender Roll
#2
I had mine cut back in 04 then had it "hammer rolled" then I recently borrowed an Eastwood and rolled my own fenders.
The cut fenders were fine for a while but after adding spacers I def needed to roll mine completly FLAT w/ Flare. Also after adding spacers... There was an area that literally started schredding my tires.
Save yourself time and money... Just like anything for your G. Do it Right the first time!
The cut fenders were fine for a while but after adding spacers I def needed to roll mine completly FLAT w/ Flare. Also after adding spacers... There was an area that literally started schredding my tires.
Save yourself time and money... Just like anything for your G. Do it Right the first time!
#3
Are you talking about fender or Quarter? You can cut your front fenders to gain a little but you will be cutting the tabs that hold the fender liner in. So that is no good. You can cut the quarter lips off but the inner wheel well is welded to the outer quarter so your car is now not welded in that area and able to get water into the inner side of the quarter to sit and rust out your car. Stick to rolling and please do not cut the lips off.
#5
Not if you use a heat gun on the paint.
I've rolled quite a few fenders and quarters and here's a few tips.
1.) If you rent a roller, make sure your rolling media isn't soft plastic. I use a wodden rolling dolly when I can.
2.) Heat gun, heat gun, heat gun! Have a helper keep heat on the paint while you roll. Get it right and you won't crack the paint.
3.) Roll in steps. I've seen people try to flatten fender lips in 1 or 2 angles on the wheel. Try for 6. The less angle you roll at a time, the more consistent it is. It's also a lot easier on your paint.
4.) Keep heat on the fender edge for about 5 minutes after you roll. The metal will be moving slightly, trying to bend into a comfortable shape. Keeping heat on it after you roll won't prevent the metal from shifting, but it will keep your paint flexible while it's moving.
I haven't done an Infiniti yet, but I can tell you that Subarus and Hondas are cake to roll. VWs and Audis are like trying to roll solid iron.
I've rolled quite a few fenders and quarters and here's a few tips.
1.) If you rent a roller, make sure your rolling media isn't soft plastic. I use a wodden rolling dolly when I can.
2.) Heat gun, heat gun, heat gun! Have a helper keep heat on the paint while you roll. Get it right and you won't crack the paint.
3.) Roll in steps. I've seen people try to flatten fender lips in 1 or 2 angles on the wheel. Try for 6. The less angle you roll at a time, the more consistent it is. It's also a lot easier on your paint.
4.) Keep heat on the fender edge for about 5 minutes after you roll. The metal will be moving slightly, trying to bend into a comfortable shape. Keeping heat on it after you roll won't prevent the metal from shifting, but it will keep your paint flexible while it's moving.
I haven't done an Infiniti yet, but I can tell you that Subarus and Hondas are cake to roll. VWs and Audis are like trying to roll solid iron.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#13
When i rolled mine i put a slice in the paint with a razor. When to lip was rolled all the way flat the paint had cracked where i cut it. This part was now up inside the wheel well. I sanded it off and put a coat of paint back on. I was not messing with a heat gun. I work flat rate i don't have time to sit around with a heat gun.
#14
^very good idea/method. I thought about this as well, but didn't actually do it. It's like scorching a nice straight line for the paint to crack evenly