DIY on Painting/Powdercoating wheels
#1
DIY on Painting/Powdercoating wheels
Just a quick question out there for you wheel/tire experts. I was just wondering if painting or powdercoating your wheels is something that can manageably be done at home. I'm just trying to paint my OEM 18's a glossy black for the time being so I can save up and get some black aftermarket 19's. The reason I ask is because I'm located in AL, nowhere near a SoCal or other booming automarket where I can get this done at. I have a friend of mine that works at home depot so getting the paint and sandpaper isn't going to be a problem. I'm just trying to get an idea of the "how-to" and is it worth it?
Also, what all is needed besides sandpaper, the paint, and primer? Thanks for the help guys
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#2
painting yes, powdercoating without the proper type of oven NO.
If your OEM wheels are clean and dont have any big cuts or scrapes, hit up the front face with some wet sanding at 400-grit, lay on light coats of the glossy black (something high temp would be best for lasting durability, but not required), wet sand black coats with 400-grit every couple of coats until your happy. If you do light light coats, you will probably want around 6-coats. If your coats are layed down a little heavy, 4 coats will do.
Thats the quick and dirty way of doing it from home. If you want, I would get a satin black finish and layer up to 4-6 coats and then drop 4 coats of clear coat on top of it for a stronger finish.
If your OEM wheels are clean and dont have any big cuts or scrapes, hit up the front face with some wet sanding at 400-grit, lay on light coats of the glossy black (something high temp would be best for lasting durability, but not required), wet sand black coats with 400-grit every couple of coats until your happy. If you do light light coats, you will probably want around 6-coats. If your coats are layed down a little heavy, 4 coats will do.
Thats the quick and dirty way of doing it from home. If you want, I would get a satin black finish and layer up to 4-6 coats and then drop 4 coats of clear coat on top of it for a stronger finish.
#3
#4
both technically, not all sand paper is good for wet sanding. it will say so on the packaging if its acceptable to use for wet sanding. As far as the technique goes, you want to keep your surface wet and the sandpaper wet as well. It prevents the material you are sanding from building up in the grit, which will primarily waste your sand paper and also cause inconsistant sanding impressions if you use it too long in a dry technique. Most 400-grit will be wet-sanding applicable as it is primarily used in that type of fashion, just check the packaging to be sure.
For small parts I will tend to wet sand them in a sink under running water, removing it from the stream every so often for closer inspection. Larger parts will require you to regulary reapply water to the surface and also rinse your paper, which you want to keep wet to keep it clean of debris. you can probably get away with spraying your wheel down with a hose and then keep a bucket around to keep the paper wet, on 400-grit your thumb and regualr dipping in the water will remove most or all debris.
For small parts I will tend to wet sand them in a sink under running water, removing it from the stream every so often for closer inspection. Larger parts will require you to regulary reapply water to the surface and also rinse your paper, which you want to keep wet to keep it clean of debris. you can probably get away with spraying your wheel down with a hose and then keep a bucket around to keep the paper wet, on 400-grit your thumb and regualr dipping in the water will remove most or all debris.
#5
DIY with Duplicolor
If done right, the duplicolor system lasts a long time. I've done this for several friends and my own cars with factory wheels or old ones that need some new life.
Stage 1: Sand with 400 grit wet/dry and clean with tire and wheel cleaner or simple green. Kerosene for gunky spots on the tire.
Stage 2: With water hose use "mist" setting on your water hose to see if water beads up. If it does, then it's not scuffed enough in those areas. Re-sand those spots that bead up. Use a shop vac and blow all the water off the wheel to dry as much as possible.
Stage 3: Prep with masking tape. Tape will not stick to rubber if it's dirty.
Stage 4: Spray 1-2 coats of sandable primer and sand rough spots when dry. Clean with damp cloth then use a hair dryer on light setting to dry the wheel.
Stage 5: After 30-45 minutes spray 2-3 coats of colormatch wheel paint 10 minutes between coats. Tip: use hair dryer after each coat on low setting in colder months if you're in your garage. DO NOT HEAT the paint, just provide warm air after spraying to promote adhesion and less likelihood of running.
Stage 6: Spray 3-4 coats of clear about 30-45 minutes after color and leave alone for at least an hour before handling.
Let cure for one week (if you must drive on them, DO NOT CLEAN THEM for at least a week). It has to "cure." Also, avoid or go real slow on sanded roads or you'll hate starting over. Best approach is to leave the wheels in a dry location or don't drive the car.
After one week clean softly with soft cloth, then sand with 600-800 grit and spray 2 more coats of clear for a deep gloss. Let sit for about an hour before handling. Be careful when remounting the wheels to the car. If you scrape your wheels with the nuts, then simply pull the wheel off, sand with 400-800 in that area, retouch with color and clear. It happened to me
Only made that mistake once
Good luck!
Stage 1: Sand with 400 grit wet/dry and clean with tire and wheel cleaner or simple green. Kerosene for gunky spots on the tire.
Stage 2: With water hose use "mist" setting on your water hose to see if water beads up. If it does, then it's not scuffed enough in those areas. Re-sand those spots that bead up. Use a shop vac and blow all the water off the wheel to dry as much as possible.
Stage 3: Prep with masking tape. Tape will not stick to rubber if it's dirty.
Stage 4: Spray 1-2 coats of sandable primer and sand rough spots when dry. Clean with damp cloth then use a hair dryer on light setting to dry the wheel.
Stage 5: After 30-45 minutes spray 2-3 coats of colormatch wheel paint 10 minutes between coats. Tip: use hair dryer after each coat on low setting in colder months if you're in your garage. DO NOT HEAT the paint, just provide warm air after spraying to promote adhesion and less likelihood of running.
Stage 6: Spray 3-4 coats of clear about 30-45 minutes after color and leave alone for at least an hour before handling.
Let cure for one week (if you must drive on them, DO NOT CLEAN THEM for at least a week). It has to "cure." Also, avoid or go real slow on sanded roads or you'll hate starting over. Best approach is to leave the wheels in a dry location or don't drive the car.
After one week clean softly with soft cloth, then sand with 600-800 grit and spray 2 more coats of clear for a deep gloss. Let sit for about an hour before handling. Be careful when remounting the wheels to the car. If you scrape your wheels with the nuts, then simply pull the wheel off, sand with 400-800 in that area, retouch with color and clear. It happened to me
![Frown](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Good luck!
Last edited by InfiniteG35S; 03-10-2011 at 12:11 AM.
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