Raderwerks Wheels Question?!?!?!
#1
Raderwerks Wheels Question?!?!?!
Whats up guys! I'm looking to put some new one piece wheels on my car and my top choice are the best looking and best priced in my opinion. My only question is do you think these wheels will fit/run well on my 2004 G35 coupe. The wheels are the MTEN85's from Raderwerks.
I am a little skeptical because everyone on the forum is telling me Raderwerks customer service is a nightmare and that there have been a few mis informed customers dealing with wrong wheel sizes/fits and I want to avoid this at all costs. So I emailed the company last night asking if the MTEN's come in 19", I get a reply that they do, but I might need a spacer. I called today and he told me they have in stock: Fronts 19x8.5 with an offset of 18 and in the rear 19x9.5 with an offset of 21. He asked for my car year, make and model and said they will fit, but I wanted the G experts on this sites opinion. Also what is the bolt pattern I would need for my car? I only want to do this sale/shipping and hassle once and I want to get it done right the first time. So if I order these wheels will they run on my car perfect without any problems? Please help me out!
Max
I am a little skeptical because everyone on the forum is telling me Raderwerks customer service is a nightmare and that there have been a few mis informed customers dealing with wrong wheel sizes/fits and I want to avoid this at all costs. So I emailed the company last night asking if the MTEN's come in 19", I get a reply that they do, but I might need a spacer. I called today and he told me they have in stock: Fronts 19x8.5 with an offset of 18 and in the rear 19x9.5 with an offset of 21. He asked for my car year, make and model and said they will fit, but I wanted the G experts on this sites opinion. Also what is the bolt pattern I would need for my car? I only want to do this sale/shipping and hassle once and I want to get it done right the first time. So if I order these wheels will they run on my car perfect without any problems? Please help me out!
Max
#2
#3
Offsets should be okay I believe, not aggressive like stated before but spacers could fix that if you don't mind running spacers. If I was buying new wheels personally I would go with the right size so I don't have to run spacers, but that's just me. Only thing I don't know about is if you have brembos, and what offsets they would need to be cleared. Just guessing with those offsets I think you are fine even with brembos but you may want to say if you have brembos or not so someone who knows can respond.
#4
#5
Offsets should be okay I believe, not aggressive like stated before but spacers could fix that if you don't mind running spacers. If I was buying new wheels personally I would go with the right size so I don't have to run spacers, but that's just me. Only thing I don't know about is if you have brembos, and what offsets they would need to be cleared. Just guessing with those offsets I think you are fine even with brembos but you may want to say if you have brembos or not so someone who knows can respond.
And single digit offsets is 9 and below I take it? That makes the wheel stick out further or flusher towards the street side right, like towards where my fender is???
Sorry for being a newb, but I am learning!!!
Thanks guys!!
Max
#6
#7
The definition of aggressive wheels and non-aggressive wheels is how they sit inside the wheel wells.
If you want an aggressive set up, you will have run offsets in the single digits or the negatives to be hella flush. Here is a wheel set up example that I will link you.
The image is an offset in the single digits, I believe Ralph is running a +5 all the way around. Its considered an aggressive fitment because he has to stretch his tire and dial in a little bit of negative camber in order for the tire to clear the fender.
Here is another example, using Patman's car. I believe Patman is a -1 offset in the rear in this image. Do you see how the tire is stretched in this image for him to clear? Obviously, your fenders need to be rolled and possibly a slight pull in order to clear.
If you want an aggressive set up, you will have run offsets in the single digits or the negatives to be hella flush. Here is a wheel set up example that I will link you.
The image is an offset in the single digits, I believe Ralph is running a +5 all the way around. Its considered an aggressive fitment because he has to stretch his tire and dial in a little bit of negative camber in order for the tire to clear the fender.
Here is another example, using Patman's car. I believe Patman is a -1 offset in the rear in this image. Do you see how the tire is stretched in this image for him to clear? Obviously, your fenders need to be rolled and possibly a slight pull in order to clear.
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#8
As for semi-aggressive / non-aggressive fitments, most of these will be sitting in the mid-teens to the mid-twenties. Personally, I think the mid-teens are perfect, since they are the offsets of the wheels that I ordered.
Most semi-aggressive fitments only require a fender and MAYBE a slight pull, but I know for a fact that people running Volk GT-S (+17 and +18 offsets) get a way with just a fender roll. Here is an image of a semi-aggressive fitment. No stretch needed, you can run your standard tire size with this.
That is Ralph's car again, before he switched to his Work T1S.
It all depends on the look that you're going for. Ideally, you want a set of wheels in the offsets you're looking for, so you don't have to run spacers. There isn't anything wrong with running spacers, but if you're going to order new wheels, then why not get them in the offsets you want?
The offsets that you listed for the wheels that you want to buy are decent. But I agree with the rest of everyone that the wheel widths are weak. I would definitely run at least a 9.5 in the front and a 10.5 in the back. Although, 9 in the front and 10 in the back is fine too.
Most semi-aggressive fitments only require a fender and MAYBE a slight pull, but I know for a fact that people running Volk GT-S (+17 and +18 offsets) get a way with just a fender roll. Here is an image of a semi-aggressive fitment. No stretch needed, you can run your standard tire size with this.
That is Ralph's car again, before he switched to his Work T1S.
It all depends on the look that you're going for. Ideally, you want a set of wheels in the offsets you're looking for, so you don't have to run spacers. There isn't anything wrong with running spacers, but if you're going to order new wheels, then why not get them in the offsets you want?
The offsets that you listed for the wheels that you want to buy are decent. But I agree with the rest of everyone that the wheel widths are weak. I would definitely run at least a 9.5 in the front and a 10.5 in the back. Although, 9 in the front and 10 in the back is fine too.
#9
The definition of aggressive wheels and non-aggressive wheels is how they sit inside the wheel wells.
If you want an aggressive set up, you will have run offsets in the single digits or the negatives to be hella flush. Here is a wheel set up example that I will link you.
The image is an offset in the single digits, I believe Ralph is running a +5 all the way around. Its considered an aggressive fitment because he has to stretch his tire and dial in a little bit of negative camber in order for the tire to clear the fender.
Here is another example, using Patman's car. I believe Patman is a -1 offset in the rear in this image. Do you see how the tire is stretched in this image for him to clear? Obviously, your fenders need to be rolled and possibly a slight pull in order to clear.
If you want an aggressive set up, you will have run offsets in the single digits or the negatives to be hella flush. Here is a wheel set up example that I will link you.
The image is an offset in the single digits, I believe Ralph is running a +5 all the way around. Its considered an aggressive fitment because he has to stretch his tire and dial in a little bit of negative camber in order for the tire to clear the fender.
Here is another example, using Patman's car. I believe Patman is a -1 offset in the rear in this image. Do you see how the tire is stretched in this image for him to clear? Obviously, your fenders need to be rolled and possibly a slight pull in order to clear.
thanks so much man, I definitely understand a lot more. So to be flush you want your wheels sticking out far towards the street or fender and sitting tucked in the wheel well? Would I be able to find wheels that are one piece and around the price of the Raderwerks with a single digit offset or would I need to step up to a three piece wheel?
and how would I roll my fender and stretch my tires?
thanks for helping this newb out man, embarrassed but I need to learn some how...
Max
Last edited by G305; 06-30-2010 at 10:51 PM.
#10
It all depends on the look that you're going for. Ideally, you want a set of wheels in the offsets you're looking for, so you don't have to run spacers. There isn't anything wrong with running spacers, but if you're going to order new wheels, then why not get them in the offsets you want?
The offsets that you listed for the wheels that you want to buy are decent. But I agree with the rest of everyone that the wheel widths are weak. I would definitely run at least a 9.5 in the front and a 10.5 in the back. Although, 9 in the front and 10 in the back is fine too.
I'd love that sick flush look, but i have no idea how to stretch tires or roll my fender or what not haha.... And it seems expensive to do all that..
#11
Don't be ashamed, we're all here to help. I didn't know much either until I got onto this forum and did some reading. I still don't know everything and I am by no means a fitment guru. So if I do make a mistake in here, then I hope someone else can chime in and correct me.
For flush you want it to be flush with the fender. If you want to be hellaflush, you want your tire to be tucked in with the wheel lined up with the fender, but not to a point where your wheel tucks into your wheel well. You're gonna be dumped if you want to be hellaflush as well. You'll also have to dial in some negative camber as well, which means that you will wear your inner tire a bit faster. Gotta pay to play if you wanna be hellaflush.
I don't know what offsets Raderwerks can offer you, you'll have to do that research on your own. Stretching tires is just getting a smaller width tire on a wider rim.
For example, normally on a 20x10.5 wheel, would most likely run a 275/30/20 size tire or a 285/30/20. But if you're looking to stretch, then most people will run a 255/35/20 size tire or a 245/35/20. Again, its all for the look that you want and what is within your budget.
If you want to be hellaflush and can afford to wear out your tires more, then by all means, go for the look. Just remember that you'll be paying for the proper fender and suspension work. Not cheap.
As for rolling your fenders, there is a DIY posted here on the forum that will show you how to do it if you want to do it yourself. If not, start calling some shops and ask if they know how to roll fenders.
- Son
For flush you want it to be flush with the fender. If you want to be hellaflush, you want your tire to be tucked in with the wheel lined up with the fender, but not to a point where your wheel tucks into your wheel well. You're gonna be dumped if you want to be hellaflush as well. You'll also have to dial in some negative camber as well, which means that you will wear your inner tire a bit faster. Gotta pay to play if you wanna be hellaflush.
I don't know what offsets Raderwerks can offer you, you'll have to do that research on your own. Stretching tires is just getting a smaller width tire on a wider rim.
For example, normally on a 20x10.5 wheel, would most likely run a 275/30/20 size tire or a 285/30/20. But if you're looking to stretch, then most people will run a 255/35/20 size tire or a 245/35/20. Again, its all for the look that you want and what is within your budget.
If you want to be hellaflush and can afford to wear out your tires more, then by all means, go for the look. Just remember that you'll be paying for the proper fender and suspension work. Not cheap.
As for rolling your fenders, there is a DIY posted here on the forum that will show you how to do it if you want to do it yourself. If not, start calling some shops and ask if they know how to roll fenders.
- Son
#12
So what would a bigger width in the wheels do for the look of them ? and would my car still run well and perform the same with bigger wheels ?
I'd love that sick flush look, but i have no idea how to stretch tires or roll my fender or what not haha.... And it seems expensive to do all that..
I'd love that sick flush look, but i have no idea how to stretch tires or roll my fender or what not haha.... And it seems expensive to do all that..
If you're looking to go performance with your whip, then perhaps being hellaflush is not the right path for you.
#15
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Don't be ashamed, we're all here to help. I didn't know much either until I got onto this forum and did some reading. I still don't know everything and I am by no means a fitment guru. So if I do make a mistake in here, then I hope someone else can chime in and correct me.
For flush you want it to be flush with the fender. If you want to be hellaflush, you want your tire to be tucked in with the wheel lined up with the fender, but not to a point where your wheel tucks into your wheel well. You're gonna be dumped if you want to be hellaflush as well. You'll also have to dial in some negative camber as well, which means that you will wear your inner tire a bit faster. Gotta pay to play if you wanna be hellaflush.
I don't know what offsets Raderwerks can offer you, you'll have to do that research on your own. Stretching tires is just getting a smaller width tire on a wider rim.
For example, normally on a 20x10.5 wheel, would most likely run a 275/30/20 size tire or a 285/30/20. But if you're looking to stretch, then most people will run a 255/35/20 size tire or a 245/35/20. Again, its all for the look that you want and what is within your budget.
If you want to be hellaflush and can afford to wear out your tires more, then by all means, go for the look. Just remember that you'll be paying for the proper fender and suspension work. Not cheap.
As for rolling your fenders, there is a DIY posted here on the forum that will show you how to do it if you want to do it yourself. If not, start calling some shops and ask if they know how to roll fenders.
- Son
For flush you want it to be flush with the fender. If you want to be hellaflush, you want your tire to be tucked in with the wheel lined up with the fender, but not to a point where your wheel tucks into your wheel well. You're gonna be dumped if you want to be hellaflush as well. You'll also have to dial in some negative camber as well, which means that you will wear your inner tire a bit faster. Gotta pay to play if you wanna be hellaflush.
I don't know what offsets Raderwerks can offer you, you'll have to do that research on your own. Stretching tires is just getting a smaller width tire on a wider rim.
For example, normally on a 20x10.5 wheel, would most likely run a 275/30/20 size tire or a 285/30/20. But if you're looking to stretch, then most people will run a 255/35/20 size tire or a 245/35/20. Again, its all for the look that you want and what is within your budget.
If you want to be hellaflush and can afford to wear out your tires more, then by all means, go for the look. Just remember that you'll be paying for the proper fender and suspension work. Not cheap.
As for rolling your fenders, there is a DIY posted here on the forum that will show you how to do it if you want to do it yourself. If not, start calling some shops and ask if they know how to roll fenders.
- Son