Help choosing offsets
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Orange County
Help choosing offsets
Getting some new wheels, and i wanna run flush offsets with fatter tires, thinking of a 225/245 setup. I want to barely tuck, so i would be able to roll dumped w/out hitting my fenders.
Offsets right now are 8.5 -22 215/30/20, and 10-5 225/35/20.
Thanks for ur help!
Offsets right now are 8.5 -22 215/30/20, and 10-5 225/35/20.
Thanks for ur help!
Any idea how much your fenders are pulled Vivek?
I'm thinking 9.5 + single digits 10.5 + teens would work. Would be about 15mm less aggressive than what you are running now. You would need to be at least 10mm less aggressive to run the larger tires without adding additional camber or doing more fender work.
I'm thinking 9.5 + single digits 10.5 + teens would work. Would be about 15mm less aggressive than what you are running now. You would need to be at least 10mm less aggressive to run the larger tires without adding additional camber or doing more fender work.
On OEM front fenders with fender finisher you can fit a 9.5+0 with just a standard drop, no upper A arms. Pics below are when I had 9.5 +3 with 225/35 Toyo's. I had still had a tiny bit more room so that's why I'm saying a 0 offset will fit.




If you know how much more the fenders were extended in the rear, just base it off your setup when you had the SF winnings.




If you know how much more the fenders were extended in the rear, just base it off your setup when you had the SF winnings.
As for the rear, I'd measure how much of the rim and tire is sticking out. Once you get that number, add about 5mm. Take note of the inner fender wall, that will play a role with camber. As much negative camber as I had with my 10.5 +0 U was still unable to fully clear the wheel. That's with a 235/35 on the wheel as well. The reason for that is because the fender is double walled. If you have reinforced fenders that can cause a potential issue. My inner and outer fender wall were pressed tightly together as well. The inner arch is what you need to worry about so you don't scrape the wheel. If the tire is the concern and it's minimal, then a 245/30 would more than likely solve it.
Since you're at a 10 -5, with a 10.5 (if you go with a 10.5) you'd be at a 10.5+1. I say you have about 15mm from that tire to the edge of the wheel lip. Add the 10mm for the 245 like Marcus said and you're looking at approx 25mm difference. So on a 10.5 you can be in the low +20's and with the 10, in the mid to upper teens.
I think Marcus has it on point with his suggestion. My advice is to borrow someone that has the tire sizes and width of the wheels you want to run and mess around with spacers. Since you have air suspension it's even easier. Just lower it to the approx height you want to drive at and measure from the lip to fender how much space you have. I'd subtract a few mm and go with that. But to double check I'd say get spacers close to that measurement, try it out and go from there.
The tough part is that you have modified fenders so it's not quite as easy to throw out suggestions. Definitely have to start with a base and play with it from there.
Since you're at a 10 -5, with a 10.5 (if you go with a 10.5) you'd be at a 10.5+1. I say you have about 15mm from that tire to the edge of the wheel lip. Add the 10mm for the 245 like Marcus said and you're looking at approx 25mm difference. So on a 10.5 you can be in the low +20's and with the 10, in the mid to upper teens.
I think Marcus has it on point with his suggestion. My advice is to borrow someone that has the tire sizes and width of the wheels you want to run and mess around with spacers. Since you have air suspension it's even easier. Just lower it to the approx height you want to drive at and measure from the lip to fender how much space you have. I'd subtract a few mm and go with that. But to double check I'd say get spacers close to that measurement, try it out and go from there.
The tough part is that you have modified fenders so it's not quite as easy to throw out suggestions. Definitely have to start with a base and play with it from there.
Last edited by The Stimulation; Nov 15, 2010 at 06:05 PM.
This should help you out. Find out what work Cliff has done to the rear.
https://g35driver.com/forums/media-s...s-fun-fun.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/media-s...s-fun-fun.html
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^ 
I go with what marcus said.
The front is pretty flush as is and not overly poking. So test fit that without the spacer.
Measure from fender to further point of rear lip then use this.... see below to reduce the "poke" category to however much you want to be closer to the fenders.
http://www.willtheyfit.com/
For some reason I knew you were gonna end up doing this.

I go with what marcus said.
The front is pretty flush as is and not overly poking. So test fit that without the spacer.
Measure from fender to further point of rear lip then use this.... see below to reduce the "poke" category to however much you want to be closer to the fenders.
http://www.willtheyfit.com/
For some reason I knew you were gonna end up doing this.
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