Anyone know the torque spec for the wheel lugnuts?

thanks
mark

 

ok, i guess the correct spec is 80ft-lbs, guess i was 10 off.

Dan O
Eaton Corporation<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by DanO on 04/18/03 04:09 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

80 ft-lbs.

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

 

thanks gordgee

 

No problem. Only reason that I know off the top is that I recently took off my winter treads, then it snowed. Back to winters and then back to summers, all within two weeks. [img]/w3timages/icons/blush.gif[/img] Just re-torqued my summer wheels yesterday. So that's 5 times setting 80 ft-lbs on the wrench in the last 3 weeks![img]/w3timages/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

 

yeah, the only reason i said 60-70 is because that is what i toruqe our Formula SAE lugs to. Those are always checked, those are smaller and lighter wheels though.

Dan O
Eaton Corporation

 

Dan, Your 70 isn't that far off. As a matter of fact that's what I torque mine to on the Coupe and b4 that on my Sedan. I like 70 because it's just about enough according to my trusty ESM's that I've just referenced.
Both ESM's recommend 72-87 lb.ft. for lug nuts. So I guess 80 is OK , so is 87, and so is 72. Hope this helps, you guys are prolly as **** as me about your nuts being on right[img]/w3timages/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

wow that sounds wrong

 

It's in both ESM's bro so be careful not to go too tight. These wheels are cast and not as resilliant as steel dude. Overtightening lug nuts will warp your rotors too.
Last Ford I had ('99 Contour) the torque on those was 70 lbs., and the last Mustang I had ('94 GT) was 80lbs. if memory serves.

Bertuzzi just scored to put the Canucks ahead. YESSSSSSS

<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

GSM,
Good rule of thumb is for Alloy wheels to use 80 Ft Lbs and Steel wheels 90-100 Ft Lbs.


<font color=blue>Merlin</font color=blue>

 

Merlin, I've had so many wheel nuts put on too tight, causing warped rotors, I always go to the lower manufacturer's specification.I check my l/n's regularly anyway so for me it's no problem. Someone who doesn't check as often may not want to chance it with the lower torquing.
And I never went over 80 lbs even with steel wheels. Works for me, but I wouldn't recommend it for just anyone.[img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]
What I really hate are these clowns in the shop that insist on 'torquing' the nuts to about 140-150 lbs. That's when I got into the habit of checking the l/n's---every time the car came back from the shop, I had to loosen the freakin' nuts off a turn or 2. [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]

<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

GSM:

Carlos' comment about something not sounding right I think was in reference to <font color=blue>"you guys are prolly as **** as me about your nuts being on right"</font color=blue>! Correct me if I'm wrong, Carlos.[img]/w3timages/icons/blush.gif[/img]

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

 

That's because those nuts in those shops put your lug nuts back on with an air wrench, not a torque wrench, and they don't care. They just want to get it done and get the next car on the lift to make their quota.

If you ever see someone put lug nuts on your car with an air wrench, go find the manager and complain. It's okay for taking them off, but dead wrong for putting them on. Firestone's highly-trained minimum-wage techs cross-threaded and stripped a few of my lug bolts, and tried to get me to pay for them (old Accord, not this car).

2003.5 G35 Sedan Desert Platinum/Graphite Premium/Sport/Aero/Nav/Winter

 

Actually, using an air wrench is okay, BUT ONLY if they use a Torque Stick with it. The Torque Stick is socket size and torque rating specific, ie for our Gs, 21mm and 80ft-lbs. The Torque Sticks limit the torque to what is rated. Pricey and each has a limited lifetime which is why most shops don't use them. They also break if you use it to loosen the lug nuts.

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>