Does anyone else with lowered suspension notice that the rear wheels are cambered, meaning the wheels look like this // \\

I don't want my tires burning out on the insides. It's not THAT bad, but I don't really like the fact that it's doing that with just a 1.1" drop from Eibach Pro-Kits. Does anyone know of any company who makes camber kits for the G35? There goes another $100 for each corner.


It's still a G thang!!

 

After I had mines aligned from a local tire service shop, camber difference was mostly on .1s.

 

Yeah, I gotta get car mine aligned. I don't think I will be getting rims anytime soon [img]/w3timages/icons/frown.gif[/img]


It's still a G thang!!

 

Our cars have negative camber from the factory to aid in cornering ability. Lowering your car will make the existing negative camber even more negative.

Camber is slightly adjustable on our cars from the factory. You may not need to purchase any further items to aid in the adjustment. You may want to have the alignment performed and see how close the shop can bring you to the factory specs.

 

yea i just got mine aligned on Friday and they said they got the rears in spec, but the fronts were off a bit.

So if the front's are off by a little how much is that going to affect wear and tear on the tires?

 

Doesnt matter how much you drop it. By dropping it you are altering the suspension, therefore causing negative camber, or actually more negative camber I should say. I dropped my car on h techs and I had to get a camvber kit, and it wasnt even 1.1. But anyway, yeh rear camber is adjustale, but very little, and with your 1.1 drop I doubt you can get it in spec without a camber kit. Just get one and be done with it, trust me, it will save time. Leave the fronts alone.

 

There is no adjustment at all for camber from the factory. Camber is already at a negative setting and lowering just increases it. The Coupes front tires are notorious for inside feathering. If you lowered your car, I would suggest you get a camber kit if you don't want to be going through front tires in a very short period of time. Mine is factory, and the front tires feather noticeably on the front insides,after 5,000 miles. I need to dismount them, flip them, and switch them to the other side of the car to get some life out of them. Good luck.

 

I am lowered on Eibachs. The shop was able to get me back into alignment with the stock adjusters.

 

camber by itself isnt the worst thing in the world.. most will say "omfg i have camber wear" and blame it all on camber. the main thing when lowering a car that causes off wear is toe.

get your toe in spec and you'll be fine..

lifes to short to be worrying about your tires tread life, worry about the corner ahead.

 

For a daily driver, most people are concerned with excessive negative camber, which will lead to premature tire wear, as I was after installing new suspension components.

I opted for the SPC rear camber and toe bolt combination. I rears were realignment to a dead center factory spec of -1.5 degress and the to was set at 0.11 degrees. I left the original front camber arm assemblies as was. In the past 12,xxx miles, I have had exceptionally even tire wear across both front and rear tires.

 

You are quite lucky with your front tires. As a rule, with our camber scenario, it is wise to set the toe to the maximum toe within the specs to offset the affect of the negative camber. For example if the toe specs are from 0.00 degrees to 0.08 degrees..........try to get the settings as close to 0.08 on both sides as possible. This way the car's front tires will be slightly turned in. Just stay within specs and don't go over. My rear toe has been consistantly set close to max at .16 degrees and I have never had any issues with uneven wear other than of course the usual middle tread wear.

 

I lowered on Hotchkis springs, 9/16" front, 15/16" rear. Rear camber and toe needed adjustment. Both front and rear toe adjusted to spec without additional mods. Rear camber would only adjust back to to -2.3 degrees, -0.8 from spec of -1.5. Front camber specification is -1.2, I've got -1.9, -0.7 from spec. Stock there is no front camber adjustment. I looked for eccentric bolts to allow for front camber adjustability but I could find none available. The only solution for front camber seems to be adjustable upper A arms which are expensive.

So.... I'm running a stock suspension except for lowering springs with .7-.8 degrees extra negative of camber. I'll see if it causes early inside wear but I think it'll really be ok and the extra camber does improve cornering some.

 

A good alignment shop can always drill out and widen the brackets (just slightly) where the front upper control arms bolt up to the chassis so that you slide the stock A arms out a bit to reduce the negative camber to more neutral specs. I would think -.5 degrees should do it. This could save us some big bucks and yet get the job done in reducing the inside front tire wear.

 

Im lowering on Tanabe 210's Normal feeling 1 inch front .6 in the rear. From what im gathering here i wont be able to adjust my fronts but i should be able to get the rears close to factory specs is this correct?

 

holy old thread batman.