Will an alignment fix static camber?
Will an alignment fix static camber?
So I lowered my car on coilovers and my rears are cambered pretty well and it looks really good but the fronts are cambered aswell (I think it looks funky)
I still haven't gotten an alignment because I've been adjusting my coilovers like crazy to get it just the way I like it.
Will an alignment make wheel even again.
The fronts don't need to be cambered because the rim will not hit the fender wall but the rears do.
I still haven't gotten an alignment because I've been adjusting my coilovers like crazy to get it just the way I like it.
Will an alignment make wheel even again.
The fronts don't need to be cambered because the rim will not hit the fender wall but the rears do.
^this, but make sure you find a shop that knows what they are doing. Your average NTB/Firestone will get your toe close, and tell you the camber is f***ed because they don't know about the aftermarket parts.
I don't think there's enough understanding of the terms you're using here. I'll try to explain as simply as possible.
Theoretically you want your camber at 0 if you want your tires to wear evenly. Gravity and physics make this almost impossible to dial that in as far as "still" numbers are concernered. Let me start by saying this: you need a camber kit regardless of what anyone else has told you. Our Cars suspension sucks.
That being said , have you ever seen an under inflated tire start to roll? As it gains speed it starts to grow taller due to centrifugal force. All the energy gathers around the rolling ends. Like when you used to impress your friends by swinging a bucket in a loop and the **** inside doesn't fall out. Get me?
OK, so in the same vain your suspension geometry wants to shift as it starts to centrifugally follow the laws of physics. By that I mean that it will shove all energy ever outward. When it comes to alignments and your wheel being connected to an axle, that energy wants to throw itself outward as well as upward and thats what static camber is. Basically, you want to undercompensate your camber so that when that energy is being forced to the edges at freeway speeds, it actually makes your wheels roll the way they're supposed to (flat).
So, knowing that energy will be thrown outward (up, sideways or a combination), you have to guess where it will end up at 55mph by where you set it when it was standing still. Its an art, not necessarily a science.
Here's the fun part: it depends on how low you are. I've got mine dialed in pretty well. I'm lowered 1" and have -.08 degrees camber. By the time I reach Fwy speeds, due to my center of gravity and centrifugal force throwing my wheel's energy outward, I end up somewhere near 0 when going 55mph.
Theoretically you want your camber at 0 if you want your tires to wear evenly. Gravity and physics make this almost impossible to dial that in as far as "still" numbers are concernered. Let me start by saying this: you need a camber kit regardless of what anyone else has told you. Our Cars suspension sucks.
That being said , have you ever seen an under inflated tire start to roll? As it gains speed it starts to grow taller due to centrifugal force. All the energy gathers around the rolling ends. Like when you used to impress your friends by swinging a bucket in a loop and the **** inside doesn't fall out. Get me?
OK, so in the same vain your suspension geometry wants to shift as it starts to centrifugally follow the laws of physics. By that I mean that it will shove all energy ever outward. When it comes to alignments and your wheel being connected to an axle, that energy wants to throw itself outward as well as upward and thats what static camber is. Basically, you want to undercompensate your camber so that when that energy is being forced to the edges at freeway speeds, it actually makes your wheels roll the way they're supposed to (flat).
So, knowing that energy will be thrown outward (up, sideways or a combination), you have to guess where it will end up at 55mph by where you set it when it was standing still. Its an art, not necessarily a science.
Here's the fun part: it depends on how low you are. I've got mine dialed in pretty well. I'm lowered 1" and have -.08 degrees camber. By the time I reach Fwy speeds, due to my center of gravity and centrifugal force throwing my wheel's energy outward, I end up somewhere near 0 when going 55mph.
Last edited by ScraggleRock; Sep 17, 2014 at 04:59 PM.
the suspensions on our cars are actually pretty awesome, but designed to handle great in stock form. as usual performance and practicality don't really coexist. my advice would be to set it to the stock alignment, but if you are really interested in how the camber affects the car read this:
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ve-camber.aspx
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ve-camber.aspx
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Nah, it sucks. That's why our bushings and ball joints always go prematurely. Its tuned way too aggressively for having no adjustability. There are people trying to start class action lawsuits against Nissan for it actually.
To be tunes to where it breaks parts? That seems counter productive. These are problems on altimas, Z, G, and gtrs. I think they just screwed up. My car handles a hundred times better with the alignment fixed than it did in stock form.
I don't think there's enough understanding of the terms you're using here. I'll try to explain as simply as possible.
Theoretically you want your camber at 0 if you want your tires to wear evenly. Gravity and physics make this almost impossible to dial that in as far as "still" numbers are concernered. Let me start by saying this: you need a camber kit regardless of what anyone else has told you. Our Cars suspension sucks.
That being said , have you ever seen an under inflated tire start to roll? As it gains speed it starts to grow taller due to centrifugal force. All the energy gathers around the rolling ends. Like when you used to impress your friends by swinging a bucket in a loop and the **** inside doesn't fall out. Get me?
OK, so in the same vain your suspension geometry wants to shift as it starts to centrifugally follow the laws of physics. By that I mean that it will shove all energy ever outward. When it comes to alignments and your wheel being connected to an axle, that energy wants to throw itself outward as well as upward and thats what static camber is. Basically, you want to undercompensate your camber so that when that energy is being forced to the edges at freeway speeds, it actually makes your wheels roll the way they're supposed to (flat).
So, knowing that energy will be thrown outward (up, sideways or a combination), you have to guess where it will end up at 55mph by where you set it when it was standing still. Its an art, not necessarily a science.
Here's the fun part: it depends on how low you are. I've got mine dialed in pretty well. I'm lowered 1" and have -.08 degrees camber. By the time I reach Fwy speeds, due to my center of gravity and centrifugal force throwing my wheel's energy outward, I end up somewhere near 0 when going 55mph.
Theoretically you want your camber at 0 if you want your tires to wear evenly. Gravity and physics make this almost impossible to dial that in as far as "still" numbers are concernered. Let me start by saying this: you need a camber kit regardless of what anyone else has told you. Our Cars suspension sucks.
That being said , have you ever seen an under inflated tire start to roll? As it gains speed it starts to grow taller due to centrifugal force. All the energy gathers around the rolling ends. Like when you used to impress your friends by swinging a bucket in a loop and the **** inside doesn't fall out. Get me?
OK, so in the same vain your suspension geometry wants to shift as it starts to centrifugally follow the laws of physics. By that I mean that it will shove all energy ever outward. When it comes to alignments and your wheel being connected to an axle, that energy wants to throw itself outward as well as upward and thats what static camber is. Basically, you want to undercompensate your camber so that when that energy is being forced to the edges at freeway speeds, it actually makes your wheels roll the way they're supposed to (flat).
So, knowing that energy will be thrown outward (up, sideways or a combination), you have to guess where it will end up at 55mph by where you set it when it was standing still. Its an art, not necessarily a science.
Here's the fun part: it depends on how low you are. I've got mine dialed in pretty well. I'm lowered 1" and have -.08 degrees camber. By the time I reach Fwy speeds, due to my center of gravity and centrifugal force throwing my wheel's energy outward, I end up somewhere near 0 when going 55mph.
So as of now I gotta throw another couple hundred for a camber kit :/
Get the kinetix front arms. Half the price of SPC/SPL and more adjustment.
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