Wheels & Tires Grabbing the road and stopping.

.5" drop in rear without springs...

Old Feb 25, 2005 | 07:14 AM
  #16  
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good question. also, is there a bolt that holds that rubber top onto the body?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2005 | 10:38 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by g_man35
I would love to get a hold of about 4 of those suckers.. So have you checked to make sure theyre still in good shape (no cracks,etc...)??
I honestly have not checked them, it's not the type of plastic to crack anytime soon due to the nature of the plastic itself. I can make more, what I'd charge has more to do with covering expences then making a buck. $20 plus shipping for the 4 that you want. It would be a few day's before I can actually get them made.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2005 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by NORCALSTI
wait if you just cut the top part off and put it back in lets say you cut like 1/2 inch wont it be ok just not to put anything back cause spring tensino holds it there
You really have to try and cut one to understand why that's not really possible. It's because of what it's made of (made from the same stuff that car tire's are made of from what I can tell) and how it's shaped. Your only hope of getting any kind of a straight and even cut is to cut along one spot and it means more then a 1/2". The material does not amend itself to correcting bad cut's either. Last set I cut I ended up having to grind down section's with a dremel. When I was done I looked like a coal miner, covered in a fine black rubber powder. I don't ever want to have to do that again.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2005 | 10:57 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by beangrower
good question. also, is there a bolt that holds that rubber top onto the body?
Their are metal tabs in the center that hold it in place, which is why the bushings I made have a hollow center. Really though the spring pushing up all the time holds them in place. Even with a 1" drop given to my by the oem Z springs and when you jack the car up, the springs are still pushing up keeping them in place.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 01:39 AM
  #20  
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Ill be going to the store to buy the board this week ill take pics of the process and what hes talkin about

tony
 
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 07:10 PM
  #21  
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If the rear springs have an effective wheel rate of ~~105-110 pounds per inch. putting 55 pounds x 2 =110 punds in trunk will lower it ~~0.5"........roughly what happens when fuel is full vs. empty.........the static camber changes rougly 0.8 degrees per inch so camber goes 0.4 degrees more negative.

Depending on drivers weight [passengers?] the car lowers more on drivers side when you enter it..........do you want it balanced [the look at wheel wells] without driver or with ......at what fuel level?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 07:10 PM
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If the rear springs have an effective wheel rate of ~~105-110 pounds per inch. putting 55 pounds x 2 =110 pounds in trunk will lower it ~~0.5"........roughly what happens when fuel is full vs. empty.........the static camber changes rougly 0.8 degrees per inch so camber goes 0.4 degrees more negative.

Depending on drivers weight [passengers?] the car lowers more on drivers side when you enter it..........do you want it balanced [the look at wheel wells] without driver or with ......at what fuel level?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2005 | 04:40 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Q45tech
If the rear springs have an effective wheel rate of ~~105-110 pounds per inch. putting 55 pounds x 2 =110 pounds in trunk will lower it ~~0.5"........roughly what happens when fuel is full vs. empty.........the static camber changes rougly 0.8 degrees per inch so camber goes 0.4 degrees more negative.

Depending on drivers weight [passengers?] the car lowers more on drivers side when you enter it..........do you want it balanced [the look at wheel wells] without driver or with ......at what fuel level?
yeah, i kinda want a more balanced look without the driver. don't really carry much of a load and passengers.
 
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