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Thread revival! Man its been a while since I have been on here. Still have the G though. Going strong for 7 years. Anyways its my time to replace my rear drivers side wheel bearing. I was looking to go the route of just buying the hub assembly and installing it. After reading this thread I wasn't sure if they sell complete hubs with bearing already installed for the rear or if I should just buy both separate(hub & bearing) and press them in or just buy the wheel bearing solo and install on original hub. Obviously I know the complete kit is gonna be the most expensive but not sure how much. Haven't found any yet. Can anyone point me in the right direction? My car is pretty much un-driveable since it shakes so bad from the rear and the grinding noise is pretty loud to. Also my tire seems toed in quite a bit.
04 G35 Sedan performance package. 70k Eibach springs and sway bars. 19 inch wheels. Plenum spacer.
Originally Posted by MDH713
Thread revival! Man its been a while since I have been on here. Still have the G though. Going strong for 7 years. Anyways its my time to replace my rear drivers side wheel bearing. I was looking to go the route of just buying the hub assembly and installing it. After reading this thread I wasn't sure if they sell complete hubs with bearing already installed for the rear or if I should just buy both separate(hub & bearing) and press them in or just buy the wheel bearing solo and install on original hub. Obviously I know the complete kit is gonna be the most expensive but not sure how much. Haven't found any yet. Can anyone point me in the right direction? My car is pretty much un-driveable since it shakes so bad from the rear and the grinding noise is pretty loud to. Also my tire seems toed in quite a bit.
so... i needed to get a new front set of tires since my aligment was that off?
I have lifetime aligment at Firestone I guess they just dont care ?
They didnt even bother to explain to me what's wrong with it
Yep that is exactly what -0.42 degrees toe will do to a tire.
About the lack of explanation, it's entirely possible they don't even understand how the geometry affects the tire, they just need to make the boxes green and it's good!
Basically what was happening is the tire was slightly turned to one direction however the car is still pushing in a straight line, it causes SEVERE wear on the tire since it's constantly sliding across the road surface instead of rolling straight down it.
Look at this picture, your front left corner had negative toe so it's pointed slightly outward, yet the rest of the tires were all still pointing in a straight line. The car was being pushed in a straight line but that front left tire was angled slightly outward so the road was constantly sliding at an angle across it ( exactly 0.42 degrees of angle) and it's basically like taking a cheese grater to the tire all the time.
Had to replace 3 wheel bearings on previous Infiniti. Already replacing front wheel bearings on latest with 50K miles. And yes, the axle nut backed off on this last wheel. For sure, do NOT replace with OEM. Junk and they rust up. Was hell getting the last one off (50K miles). For that matter, Nissans (Datsuns) have always been rust buckets. My 2006 M35X rusted through the frame and I live in an area with little salt in the winter. My Lexus LS400 went over 300K miles without replacement of any wheel bearings or rust and the car was from Chicago. Took care of the Infiniti myself and got a quality complete hub for about $40. Have never had a wheel bearing issue when I replace them myself. Next task, I noticed almost no sound deading material in the wheel well. Will add that myself too. Hopefully get rid of some of the loud tire noise. If I didn't like the looks inside and out, I would stop buying Infinities.
I had a humming noise that followed my driver front wheel's rotation. Recently lowered my sedan on BCs and after test drives my friends brought up the noise. (it may have progressively got worse bc I almost didnt even notice it as time went on. Went in for an alignment for recon and asked them to check it out. My friend suggested may be a bad balance job, but turns out it was a bad hub assembly.
swapped out the old one for the last one in stock at oreillys that some day! rode smoother than the first day i drove it. One tip i could give is to make sure the dust pad is lined up correctly when reassembling the hub and rotor. mine got out of place and caused a shameful screeching everywhere i went. lucky its as easy and prying, or pulling back the pad. dont necessarily need to remove tire for this but makes it easier to go around the perimeter of the dust pad and determine where the rubbing of pad and rotor is taking place.
good luck to all with this problem, its not as bad as it sounds! hardest part is locating issue!
Quick extra notes- sound does not change if I put the car in neutral and even turn the engine off.
Additional thought I forgot to mention- Any thoughts on if my differential could be to blame? Could it produce a speed-dependent humming noise if there was a problem with it? If so, would it be likely to continue for so long without showing any other major symptoms? Any way to diagnose a diff problem aside from looking for excessive wear material stuck to the magnet on the drain plug or removing the case cover to visually inspect?
What is a normal amount of metallic sludge/particles to find on the magnet after 30,000 miles? I think the last two times I've changed the fluid, there's been maybe about half a pea sized amount of very fine metal shavings (more like a dust, but sludgy because of the oil). Is this typical? It didn't raise any alarms to me, but of course now I'm wondering.. I'm considering changing the fluid early (15,000 miles on it now) and sending some to be analyzed by Blackstone Labs.
Are you guys using synthetic oil?? If not I would start, cuz I've always noticed that synthetic won't oil won't have any shavings, but just conventional oil will usually always have metal shavings in it...?
04-19-2019, 06:21 PM
