I was researching online when I came across this article..http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec98/mech.htm.that states:


"Height must be right
Some of today's alignment equipment also can diagnose ride height, which is critical to proper alignment and suspension geometry. Ride height is the angle that all wheel alignment angles are built around and should be kept within manufacturer specifications for optimum performance of the entire steering, suspension and driveline system. Vehicle modification is another area of concern. When vehicles have been modified from the manufacturer's original design, factory alignment settings may no longer apply. Aftermarket wheels may have different offsets than the original wheels. Altering tire sizes may upset the spindle's distance from the ground, which can have an effect on scrub radius. Raising or lowering vehicle height may alter the suspension and steering systems' geometry during deflection and cause excessive toe change or stress some parts beyond their limits."

In my case for example, I am planning on installing Tokico Dspec DSP-9's(Z) with Z springs on my 05 sedan which of course will lower my ride height. Taking this into account does this mean that I should use the coupes or even the Z's alignment specs when I get my alignment done?

 

I think what it is saying is that if you lower the car, you may not be physically able to get the car aligned back into factory specs since the geometry will change a bit. I think the alignment choice is going to be up to you. If you want a more aggressive handling car shoot for the z alignment specs - this will be at the cost of slightly more tire wear.

Going back to the first sentence, you might not have any choice but to shoot for the z specs anyway with the z springs without some aftermarket parts (a arms, toe/camber rods, etc).

If you get an alignment and have more negative camber than the z specs allows, you should probably get the adjustable suspension equipment...

 

Just base it on the coupe's alignment specs, then adjust to your preference
from there. Alignment is a trial/error process. ive taken my car in a number of
times to adjust to my driving habits. my car sticks like glue on the road
without compromising comfort or any clearance issues.

 

Factory specs are the amount of misalignment from zero camber and toe necessary to optimize the car for the changes that take place going 60 mph.

Sitting still static settings that result in optimum toe going straight ahead a 60.
Stiffer and lower springs change the camber compensation curve thus less than oem camber may be ideal [at static] all depends on where up or down the curve you move the situation.

With Spring and bushing changes you have no real way of telling other than looking at tire wear what new misalignment setting should be!

 

Let's not forget this platform has woefully high front caster. 7 to 8.5 degree's. No aftermarket way to change that at this time.