alignment results..need help
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
alignment results..need help *pics of results added*
Hey guys, well I have had my car lowered on the Eibach Prokit for a few months now. I had it aligned afterwards and was off slightly on both the front and rear, so I decided to go for camber kits.
This weekend I installed the front Kinetix control arm and the rear SPC camber arm and toe bolt. Went in for my alignment today and here are the results.
Front
Caster
Left 8.7
Right 10.1
Camber
Left -0.5
Right -0.4
Toe
Left 0.05
Right 0.05
Rear
Camber
Left -1.0
Right -1.0
Toe
Left 0.20
Right 0.25
Thrust Angle 0.0
One thing I noticed is that on the front right side (passenger side I presume when they give these readings), is that the ball joint casing (the red rubber thing) is touching the fender wall right above where the wheel well lining stops. Is this normal? The guy said he couldn't do anything about my caster settings unless he were to put my camber out of spec. Does this sound right?
Very confused.
This weekend I installed the front Kinetix control arm and the rear SPC camber arm and toe bolt. Went in for my alignment today and here are the results.
Front
Caster
Left 8.7
Right 10.1
Camber
Left -0.5
Right -0.4
Toe
Left 0.05
Right 0.05
Rear
Camber
Left -1.0
Right -1.0
Toe
Left 0.20
Right 0.25
Thrust Angle 0.0
One thing I noticed is that on the front right side (passenger side I presume when they give these readings), is that the ball joint casing (the red rubber thing) is touching the fender wall right above where the wheel well lining stops. Is this normal? The guy said he couldn't do anything about my caster settings unless he were to put my camber out of spec. Does this sound right?
Very confused.
Last edited by Burrcold; Jun 4, 2005 at 05:08 PM.
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
Originally Posted by kenchan
humm, that front caster ..is that an install issue?
What value is the toe? degrees, right?...if so, that's a lot of
toe-in on the rear.
What value is the toe? degrees, right?...if so, that's a lot of
toe-in on the rear.
All values are in degrees. But isn't the rear toe factory max setting .35 for each side? if so how is that a lot of toe?
Sorry for all the questions but I am a total noob when it comes to reading and understanding alignment numbers.
Originally Posted by Burrcold
Hey guys, well I have had my car lowered on the Eibach Prokit for a few months now. I had it aligned afterwards and was off slightly on both the front and rear, so I decided to go for camber kits.
This weekend I installed the front Kinetix control arm and the rear SPC camber arm and toe bolt. Went in for my alignment today and here are the results.
Front
Caster
Left 8.7
Right 10.1
Camber
Left -0.5
Right -0.4
Toe
Left 0.05
Right 0.05
Rear
Camber
Left -1.0
Right -1.0
Toe
Left 0.20
Right 0.25
Thrust Angle 0.0
One thing I noticed is that on the front right side (passenger side I presume when they give these readings), is that the ball joint casing (the red rubber thing) is touching the fender wall right above where the wheel well lining stops. Is this normal? The guy said he couldn't do anything about my caster settings unless he were to put my camber out of spec. Does this sound right?
Very confused.
This weekend I installed the front Kinetix control arm and the rear SPC camber arm and toe bolt. Went in for my alignment today and here are the results.
Front
Caster
Left 8.7
Right 10.1
Camber
Left -0.5
Right -0.4
Toe
Left 0.05
Right 0.05
Rear
Camber
Left -1.0
Right -1.0
Toe
Left 0.20
Right 0.25
Thrust Angle 0.0
One thing I noticed is that on the front right side (passenger side I presume when they give these readings), is that the ball joint casing (the red rubber thing) is touching the fender wall right above where the wheel well lining stops. Is this normal? The guy said he couldn't do anything about my caster settings unless he were to put my camber out of spec. Does this sound right?
Very confused.
Your toe is set too severe and may cause feathering on your tires. Try these specs:
Front:
Camber: -0.25 to -0.75 deg (-0.50 deg Nominal)
Toe-in: 0.00 to 0.06 deg (0.03 deg Nominal)
Rear:
Camber: -0.75 to -1.25 deg (-1.00 Nominal)
Toe-in: 0.04 to 0.07 deg (0.05 deg Nominal)
Bottom line ..... check out the right front control arm, something is out of alignment and redo the alignment.
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
does it make a difference what size of tire they used when they punched in my car make, model etc? If you notice in these pics they have it at 215/55/R17, and they only had the settings for the 03...could they have possibly used the sedan settings?? Are they any different?
Anyway, here are the pics.
Front before

Front after

Rear before

Rear after
Anyway, here are the pics.
Front before

Front after

Rear before

Rear after
Last edited by Burrcold; Jun 4, 2005 at 05:09 PM.
Since you're going by degrees the wheel size does not matter. It matters when
you use A-B = x mm/inches since it is the difference from lip to lip (rim to rim
for wheels with no lip, i guess....
)
The A-Arm was installed incorrectly or something is binding, etc... did you use
the correct bushing, etc that came with the kit? the caster is quite a bit off on
the right. What happens is that your car's going to squirm left when you hit a
bump on your right cause excessive positive caster will make the car toe-in.
Your right tire is going to wear faster on the inside more than your left...
since you seem to be going for wear than performance.
you use A-B = x mm/inches since it is the difference from lip to lip (rim to rim
for wheels with no lip, i guess....
) The A-Arm was installed incorrectly or something is binding, etc... did you use
the correct bushing, etc that came with the kit? the caster is quite a bit off on
the right. What happens is that your car's going to squirm left when you hit a
bump on your right cause excessive positive caster will make the car toe-in.
Your right tire is going to wear faster on the inside more than your left...
since you seem to be going for wear than performance.
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
Originally Posted by kenchan
Since you're going by degrees the wheel size does not matter. It matters when
you use A-B = x mm/inches since it is the difference from lip to lip (rim to rim
for wheels with no lip, i guess....
)
The A-Arm was installed incorrectly or something is binding, etc... did you use
the correct bushing, etc that came with the kit? the caster is quite a bit off on
the right. What happens is that your car's going to squirm left when you hit a
bump on your right cause excessive positive caster will make the car toe-in.
Your right tire is going to wear faster on the inside more than your left...
since you seem to be going for wear than performance.
you use A-B = x mm/inches since it is the difference from lip to lip (rim to rim
for wheels with no lip, i guess....
) The A-Arm was installed incorrectly or something is binding, etc... did you use
the correct bushing, etc that came with the kit? the caster is quite a bit off on
the right. What happens is that your car's going to squirm left when you hit a
bump on your right cause excessive positive caster will make the car toe-in.
Your right tire is going to wear faster on the inside more than your left...
since you seem to be going for wear than performance.
I actually told the guy that I would like it more on the performance side so closer to the max allowable but obviously, as you can see, he did not do that. My tires look perfectly straight now which is not what I wanted, I wanted some negative camber for handling performance.
So from those pics does it look like they tried to align in within the Sedan specs? or does that even matter? I would bring it to another alignment shop but there are very few that have the G35C in their system that can accomodate getting a lowered car with a lip onto the hoist. This is all getting very frustrating and expensive grr.
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I think they went by the coupe specs and tried to get it close to factory
as possible...which, imho there's not enough camber (as you stated) and
too much toe-in on the rear.
I would use something like this on your prokits for performance driving...atleast
as a starting point. I use more neg camber on the rear (-2.6) for my setup.
Front:
Camber -1.7
Toe-in: Total 0.08
Rear:
Camber -2.0
Toe-in: Total 0.30
as possible...which, imho there's not enough camber (as you stated) and
too much toe-in on the rear.
I would use something like this on your prokits for performance driving...atleast
as a starting point. I use more neg camber on the rear (-2.6) for my setup.
Front:
Camber -1.7
Toe-in: Total 0.08
Rear:
Camber -2.0
Toe-in: Total 0.30
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
Originally Posted by kenchan
I think they went by the coupe specs and tried to get it close to factory
as possible...which, imho there's not enough camber (as you stated) and
too much toe-in on the rear.
I would use something like this on your prokits for performance driving...atleast
as a starting point. I use more neg camber on the rear (-2.6) for my setup.
Front:
Camber -1.7
Toe-in: Total 0.08
Rear:
Camber -2.0
Toe-in: Total 0.30
as possible...which, imho there's not enough camber (as you stated) and
too much toe-in on the rear.
I would use something like this on your prokits for performance driving...atleast
as a starting point. I use more neg camber on the rear (-2.6) for my setup.
Front:
Camber -1.7
Toe-in: Total 0.08
Rear:
Camber -2.0
Toe-in: Total 0.30
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
Originally Posted by kenchan
The camber is for each side. 
so...
-1.7 front right
-1.7 front left
-2.0 rear right
-2.0 rear left

so...
-1.7 front right
-1.7 front left
-2.0 rear right
-2.0 rear left
Also, since I will ask for these camber settings are there optimal toe settings I should be looking to get at as well?
I might as well just go in with the list of all the settings I want and just tell them to do it lol.
By the way, thanks for all the help and advice with this!
Yes, there will be some uneven wear on the inside treads as stock setup does too.
It's just the way it is with this suspension. Since the toe-in isn't too aggressive
you'll get decent tire wear with the added performance.
You can try less neg camber and see how it goes. I had to get my car aligned
several times to dial in my current setup and it handles pretty well for a heavy
but very comfy-ride car.
Mines -1.8 front, -2.6 rear.
It's just the way it is with this suspension. Since the toe-in isn't too aggressive
you'll get decent tire wear with the added performance.
You can try less neg camber and see how it goes. I had to get my car aligned
several times to dial in my current setup and it handles pretty well for a heavy
but very comfy-ride car.
Mines -1.8 front, -2.6 rear.
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