Suspension Help!
#16
Yeh, to clarify further, it's like this on the S-techs over stock dampers:
Front - underdamped, car undulates over bumps/humps especially when on
one side of the car. the positive caster is amplified causing the car to squirm when
going over large bumps/humps making the car unstable (makes your car feel like
it's shifting left/right going over bumps on one side of the car).
Rear - not underdamped, but spring rate too soft to extend the rear sus fast enough
to bring the car flat to where it's suppose to be...making the car feel very sluggish.
Front - underdamped, car undulates over bumps/humps especially when on
one side of the car. the positive caster is amplified causing the car to squirm when
going over large bumps/humps making the car unstable (makes your car feel like
it's shifting left/right going over bumps on one side of the car).
Rear - not underdamped, but spring rate too soft to extend the rear sus fast enough
to bring the car flat to where it's suppose to be...making the car feel very sluggish.
#17
Did Hotchikis ever fix their design to include the collars on their swaybars?
If not, stay away from those and get the Stillens. Your swaybars are
going to be sliding left/right without those collars and it will be a pita
later on. the stillens are already welded on and they are excellent,
and damn inexpensive!
If not, stay away from those and get the Stillens. Your swaybars are
going to be sliding left/right without those collars and it will be a pita
later on. the stillens are already welded on and they are excellent,
and damn inexpensive!
Originally Posted by vodkarocket
Thanks for your help for the millionth time Kenchan- you seem to always have the right answers!
I will move forward with copying your combo. My buddy has a set of Eibach's laying around so I can sweep up the rears for cheap.
D-specs and Hotchkis sways coming up next- I'm sure I'll have more questions for you then.
I will move forward with copying your combo. My buddy has a set of Eibach's laying around so I can sweep up the rears for cheap.
D-specs and Hotchkis sways coming up next- I'm sure I'll have more questions for you then.
#18
Originally Posted by kenchan
Did Hotchikis ever fix their design to include the collars on their swaybars?
If not, stay away from those and get the Stillens. Your swaybars are
going to be sliding left/right without those collars and it will be a pita
later on. the stillens are already welded on and they are excellent,
and damn inexpensive!
If not, stay away from those and get the Stillens. Your swaybars are
going to be sliding left/right without those collars and it will be a pita
later on. the stillens are already welded on and they are excellent,
and damn inexpensive!
#19
This describes exactly how my car feels right now.
Originally Posted by kenchan
Yeh, to clarify further, it's like this on the S-techs over stock dampers:
Front - underdamped, car undulates over bumps/humps especially when on
one side of the car. the positive caster is amplified causing the car to squirm when
going over large bumps/humps making the car unstable (makes your car feel like
it's shifting left/right going over bumps on one side of the car).
Rear - not underdamped, but spring rate too soft to extend the rear sus fast enough
to bring the car flat to where it's suppose to be...making the car feel very sluggish.
Front - underdamped, car undulates over bumps/humps especially when on
one side of the car. the positive caster is amplified causing the car to squirm when
going over large bumps/humps making the car unstable (makes your car feel like
it's shifting left/right going over bumps on one side of the car).
Rear - not underdamped, but spring rate too soft to extend the rear sus fast enough
to bring the car flat to where it's suppose to be...making the car feel very sluggish.
#20
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Hotchkis Sway Bars
VodkaRocket,
I would recommend the Hotchkis Sway Bars & buying the collars from McMaster-Carr (562.692.5911, www.mcmaster.com). They work great with no shifting of the bars. Here are the item numbers from McMaster-Carr, Front #6436K141 (need two), Rear #6436K146 (need two), the total with shipping & tax is approx. $40. I'm really happy with my setup.
I would recommend the Hotchkis Sway Bars & buying the collars from McMaster-Carr (562.692.5911, www.mcmaster.com). They work great with no shifting of the bars. Here are the item numbers from McMaster-Carr, Front #6436K141 (need two), Rear #6436K146 (need two), the total with shipping & tax is approx. $40. I'm really happy with my setup.
#21
Originally Posted by Keith N
VodkaRocket,
I would recommend the Hotchkis Sway Bars & buying the collars from McMaster-Carr (562.692.5911, www.mcmaster.com). They work great with no shifting of the bars. Here are the item numbers from McMaster-Carr, Front #6436K141 (need two), Rear #6436K146 (need two), the total with shipping & tax is approx. $40. I'm really happy with my setup.
I would recommend the Hotchkis Sway Bars & buying the collars from McMaster-Carr (562.692.5911, www.mcmaster.com). They work great with no shifting of the bars. Here are the item numbers from McMaster-Carr, Front #6436K141 (need two), Rear #6436K146 (need two), the total with shipping & tax is approx. $40. I'm really happy with my setup.
#22
#23
Originally Posted by kenchan
naw, Im using my factory bushings. See how worn out your factory ones
are and if they are, just get some from your dealer or go urethane.
are and if they are, just get some from your dealer or go urethane.
I am deciding between the Hotchkis bars and the 350evo bars.
#25
Originally Posted by kenchan
You know what, i tried that setup when I bought the prokits, but the
front springs are too low and too soft. It's like they got the spring rate
right, but the stroke too short...so it's not great either.
From the posts Ive been reading, I would try this setup if you don't
want to buy 2 sets of springs:
Hotchikis springs + D Specs, finish off with Stillen swaybars.
front springs are too low and too soft. It's like they got the spring rate
right, but the stroke too short...so it's not great either.
From the posts Ive been reading, I would try this setup if you don't
want to buy 2 sets of springs:
Hotchikis springs + D Specs, finish off with Stillen swaybars.
#26
Originally Posted by GruppeS
The main function of springs is to absorb bumps, not to get rid of body roll. In order to minimize body roll, I would recommend you to invest in a set of Eibach sway bars. If thats still not enough for you....you might want to look into a set of monotube coilover.
Thanks,
Tom
Thanks,
Tom
Springs absorb bumps, hold the car up, set the CG, and offer increasing or decreasing resistance to roll depending or how stiff the springs used are. And let's not forget since he is one aftermarket springs, what about that springs design may be a factor in his feelings? What about the oem setup that was right for him? The best setup's on these car's use spring rates that are high enough to maintain tire contract, avoid excess camber gain and fine tuned with adjustable sway bar settings. Setup the car up right the first time around with springs, then fine tune with sway bars. Do not use sway bars to overcome ingnoring proper setup laws. Doing so creates a situation where excess roll resistance by the sway makes the cars suspension no longer compleately independent. On the bumps that exist in real life off smooth as glass track surfaces this means the car will dart and try to follow bumps, you'll know it's going on as your head is tossed side to side. {see page 67 last paragraph Carroll Smith's book "Tune To Win"}
#27
Originally Posted by vodkarocket
Thanks, GSedan35, I will check on this as soon as I get home this evening.
It is my understanding that the dampeners are not necessarily at fault here. I think my first step will be to replace the rear springs with either 350z H.Tech's or a G35s Eibach's. From what I have read, their spring rates are stiffer than stock, and should have more of a planted feel, right?
I did alot of trial & error with the suspension in my Maxima, so I am used to this frustration. My problem is that the drop I seek is not only for looks, but performance as well- coilovers would probably be my best bet, but I am also budget-conscious. I do intend on adding D-Spec's and Hotchkis sways next month, but want to sort out the issues with my springs before moving forward.
It is my understanding that the dampeners are not necessarily at fault here. I think my first step will be to replace the rear springs with either 350z H.Tech's or a G35s Eibach's. From what I have read, their spring rates are stiffer than stock, and should have more of a planted feel, right?
I did alot of trial & error with the suspension in my Maxima, so I am used to this frustration. My problem is that the drop I seek is not only for looks, but performance as well- coilovers would probably be my best bet, but I am also budget-conscious. I do intend on adding D-Spec's and Hotchkis sways next month, but want to sort out the issues with my springs before moving forward.
Since you've mentioned performance, avoid the Eibachs, they will not take the car in the direction that your after, they will introduce a lot of weight transfer issues including yawing and pitching. The 350Z H-tech's are a better choice. Though I can tell you from experience that the oem sedan sport shocks do not have enough rebound control in the rear, but you are saying your going to go with D-specs anyhow.
I would still like to know the part number off one of your rear oem shocks and the color the the dot's on the rear oem springs, can you please find out?
#28
gsedan35- the fundamental problem with GruppeS's post is that he doesn't seem
to have much experience (or experimentation) with our cars... more of a
spec sheet modifier type comments from this guy.
Until he's actually tried these setups and played around with it, he will never
know what the customers are complaining about.
Also, before anyone goes out buying springs to mimic my setup, note that my
G35C is setup for dressup, comfort, and handling in that order. It is
my weekend street cruiser where Im just touring around town in, do very
limited spirited run through some entrance ramps and in the forest twistes,
that's it. Most of the time, Im kicking back enjoying the torque of the motor
and exhaust note just driving mildly.
to have much experience (or experimentation) with our cars... more of a
spec sheet modifier type comments from this guy.
Until he's actually tried these setups and played around with it, he will never
know what the customers are complaining about.
Also, before anyone goes out buying springs to mimic my setup, note that my
G35C is setup for dressup, comfort, and handling in that order. It is
my weekend street cruiser where Im just touring around town in, do very
limited spirited run through some entrance ramps and in the forest twistes,
that's it. Most of the time, Im kicking back enjoying the torque of the motor
and exhaust note just driving mildly.
#29
I currently am having the same problems with my sedan. In addition to rubiing I think i will try and get ahold of some 350 Z h-techs for my rear also.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sedan-v35-2003-06/60130-tein-h-techs-issues-rubbing-how-get-rid.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sedan-v35-2003-06/60130-tein-h-techs-issues-rubbing-how-get-rid.html