I finally got my wheels/tires for autocross yesterday. The details are in my signature. I drove around on them and took some corners really fast and the car just stayed planted and I could feel the front tires bite in and take me around the corner, where the stock Pilot Sports would lose traction and cause the car to push. I think it definitely helps to have equal width rubber on front and back, and helps even more that these tires are sticky as hell!

the wheel offset is 27, and you can see it clears the Brembos easily. It doesn't seem to rub at fairly moderate speed turns, but I haven't done a fast turn with the wheel locked yet.

Yes, the car looks a little funny because the overall diameter is smaller than stock, especially in the rears. I will just use these for auto-x and maybe a track day or two. If they didn't burn up so fast, I'd love to use these on the streets because they have so much traction!

EDIT: Pictures fixed & a few more photos added below

How much were just the rears?

hey those look pretty good... especially for the track... I would floss those on the streets too...

they are not as low-profiled as the stock ones right?

I think low profile 17" would only fit a miata hehe, definitely not a G. These make the Brembo rotors look HUGE!

I have the same wheels/tires all around, and it came out to about $1400 total, including tax, lugnuts, etc. The wheels were $126/ea, the tires about $170/ea.

I think they make the Competition wheel in 18", but 17" tires are cheaper

The MB Weapon looks cooler, IMO, but it is a little heavier and was OOS when I originally placed the order a few months ago. It's in stock now.

But won't dropping down to a 17" wheel/tire combo mean you'll be bumped up to a different autox class?

Moot point: the z tube already knocks him into STX and the plenum spacer pushes him into BSP. The 17x9" wheels and 255mm tires are welcome in BSP, so nothing really changes...

Nice setup BTW! Pretty similar to mine. Don't let anyone give you crap about having 17's either - you'll have better tire compliance on the track. I do have to admit its just hard to get over the "bigger is better" state of mind!

I have not gone to a 'real' auto-x before. The auto-x club at my work only designates classes A through F. Stock G35 is in E, but w/ race rubber, it is bumped up to B. I don't know if I can compete with the people in B class, but I mainly wanted to get some tires so I wouldn't be chewing away my Pilot Sports every month.

Glad you got these and posted pics. I'm about to pickup the exact same wheels...same offset/size/width, for my DG G35c also. Lol....so I already know they'll fit and how they'll look. Did you put them on yourself? I'm wondering if the lugnuts are threaded far enough?

These come with some used R-compounds, so we'll see how that goes...

The wheels need tuner spline nuts or whatever they are called. The thread engagement of the studs looked fine. For the initial installation, the shop installed them. But I bought some tools to change the wheels. Here's what you will need:

-Jack (don't use the one that comes w/ the car, it is not as safe)
-1/2" torque wrench that goes to 85 ft-lb (got mine at Sears for $65)
-a deep 13/16" socket for the OEM lugs
-a socket that will fit the adapter that should come w/ the tuner spline nuts (mine was 19mm)
-A 3/8" square drive adapter to fit onto your power drill. Not necessary, but it is fast to spin the nuts on/off.
-A breaker bar to break off the lugs. Do not use the torque wrench to do that!
-you may also need some 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapters (or vice versa) to fit the various sockets on the wrenches.
All this stuff cost $115 at Sears.

Do you know the proper steps to change wheels and torque them?

1. break the lugs loose while the car is on the ground
2. jack up the car
3. remove lugs and replace with new wheels
4. reinstall lugs and hand tighten as far as it can go
5. lower the car and torque to 85ft lbs
6. go autox and lap porsches

Yup, 85 ft/lbs is correct. Don't overtorque.

I forgot you were running a 245. Because I'm running 275's, I think I may need a spacer in the front. Because of that, I don't think my tuner lugs will work. People are recommending I use some Nismo ones i guess...

275's in front? Yeah, not sure if that will fit. you will need longer wheel studs if you use a spacer. The tuner lugs are the type of low profile nut, not the stud (threaded bolt end).

BTW, there is a little screw on the front hubs that prevents you from putting the OEM rear wheels on the front. Just remove it.

Look familiar?