Cv boot torn
#1
Cv boot torn
Well my front passenger side closest to center of the car's Cv boot is torn. The rest of them are fine. I am currently lowered 3 inches on Bc Racing coilovers for 3 weeks now. And it ripped sometime between that period. Could the added stress of lowering have ripped it?
Anyone know of any good websites to get a replacement Cv boot ?
Also I've heard if your going to go through the hassle of replacing the boot some people also replace the cv axle as well as the boots?
Also is this boot pictured called the Inner or outer front passenger boot? I'm guessing inner but want to make sure so I get the correct part.
I found this link online. Good substitute? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sh...initi/g35.html
#3
That looks messy! A woman's opinion (if that makes a difference) :
1) 90% of your costs will be labor, the boot itself is between $15-30. Given this, I would replace both boots if you have higher mileage. Keep in mind that the more you re-engineer your car, the more mechanical problems you'll have-- a 3" drop is pretty huge and you can expect other issues to surface over time. How close are you to the bump stops or subframe?
2) There are 2 joints-- an inner and outer joint on the left and right axles. With a lowered car (especially at 3"), joints will generally fail b/c your highest level of angularity occurs when the wheel is turned. This is when the joint has to redirect the torque from the engine around a corner. The greater angle and the higher the torque, the greater the strain on the axle. When the axle is removed to replace the torn boot, you'll be able to tell if there's any damage to it... then you can decide whether to replace it. Also, if one boot is torn, I'd check the others very carefully (which I'm sure you have), especially the right side. It tends to go 1st-- b/c of the left-handed steering wheel in the US b/c we tend to turn harder/sharper on right corners.
Good luck and I hope this helps. I'm no mechanical genius, so my sense is that those who know more will chime in and correct what I've said.
1) 90% of your costs will be labor, the boot itself is between $15-30. Given this, I would replace both boots if you have higher mileage. Keep in mind that the more you re-engineer your car, the more mechanical problems you'll have-- a 3" drop is pretty huge and you can expect other issues to surface over time. How close are you to the bump stops or subframe?
2) There are 2 joints-- an inner and outer joint on the left and right axles. With a lowered car (especially at 3"), joints will generally fail b/c your highest level of angularity occurs when the wheel is turned. This is when the joint has to redirect the torque from the engine around a corner. The greater angle and the higher the torque, the greater the strain on the axle. When the axle is removed to replace the torn boot, you'll be able to tell if there's any damage to it... then you can decide whether to replace it. Also, if one boot is torn, I'd check the others very carefully (which I'm sure you have), especially the right side. It tends to go 1st-- b/c of the left-handed steering wheel in the US b/c we tend to turn harder/sharper on right corners.
Good luck and I hope this helps. I'm no mechanical genius, so my sense is that those who know more will chime in and correct what I've said.
#4
That looks messy! A woman's opinion (if that makes a difference) :
1) 90% of your costs will be labor, the boot itself is between $15-30. Given this, I would replace both boots if you have higher mileage. Keep in mind that the more you re-engineer your car, the more mechanical problems you'll have-- a 3" drop is pretty huge and you can expect other issues to surface over time. How close are you to the bump stops or subframe?
2) There are 2 joints-- an inner and outer joint on the left and right axles. With a lowered car (especially at 3"), joints will generally fail b/c your highest level of angularity occurs when the wheel is turned. This is when the joint has to redirect the torque from the engine around a corner. The greater angle and the higher the torque, the greater the strain on the axle. When the axle is removed to replace the torn boot, you'll be able to tell if there's any damage to it... then you can decide whether to replace it. Also, if one boot is torn, I'd check the others very carefully (which I'm sure you have), especially the right side. It tends to go 1st-- b/c of the left-handed steering wheel in the US b/c we tend to turn harder/sharper on right corners.
Good luck and I hope this helps. I'm no mechanical genius, so my sense is that those who know more will chime in and correct what I've said.
1) 90% of your costs will be labor, the boot itself is between $15-30. Given this, I would replace both boots if you have higher mileage. Keep in mind that the more you re-engineer your car, the more mechanical problems you'll have-- a 3" drop is pretty huge and you can expect other issues to surface over time. How close are you to the bump stops or subframe?
2) There are 2 joints-- an inner and outer joint on the left and right axles. With a lowered car (especially at 3"), joints will generally fail b/c your highest level of angularity occurs when the wheel is turned. This is when the joint has to redirect the torque from the engine around a corner. The greater angle and the higher the torque, the greater the strain on the axle. When the axle is removed to replace the torn boot, you'll be able to tell if there's any damage to it... then you can decide whether to replace it. Also, if one boot is torn, I'd check the others very carefully (which I'm sure you have), especially the right side. It tends to go 1st-- b/c of the left-handed steering wheel in the US b/c we tend to turn harder/sharper on right corners.
Good luck and I hope this helps. I'm no mechanical genius, so my sense is that those who know more will chime in and correct what I've said.
And yeah I haven't gotten around to replacing it as I work every day and have no down time. Hopefully soon.
#5
#6
I have the same issue, only it is the inner rear axle cv boot that's torn. I'm trying to avoid buying from a dealer, as the parts are crazy expensive there. I've called and they quoted me $36+ tax. I'm not even sure they excluded the tightening brackets in that price. I did find some cv boots on the internet, but not sure about the measurements and fitment.
Can anyone suggest a dealer on g35driver that will not cost me an arm and a leg?
#7
I did a CV joint boot rebuild on my sister's Volvo and they are not fun at all! It's one of the messiest and time consuming jobs on the planet. If you bring it to a mechanic they're going to replace the axle, since it's faster then doing a boot rebuild.
You cut the boot off with a razor, remove the inner race, *****, and cage. Put them all back together and then jam in a ton of nasty grease that stains everything. Then use special clamps to tighten the boot down.
Inner joints are pretty similar, but you'll probably have to replace the outer if your inner fails. You need to replace the whole axle depending on how long you've driven with that failed boot. If dirt, grime, and anything else gets in there it can cause pitting and stuff like that.
Stay away from those Chinese cheap ones and I know a lot of people have used www.raxles.com, I don't know if they make Infiniti ones though. But, they rebuild axles using OEM parts.
You cut the boot off with a razor, remove the inner race, *****, and cage. Put them all back together and then jam in a ton of nasty grease that stains everything. Then use special clamps to tighten the boot down.
Inner joints are pretty similar, but you'll probably have to replace the outer if your inner fails. You need to replace the whole axle depending on how long you've driven with that failed boot. If dirt, grime, and anything else gets in there it can cause pitting and stuff like that.
Stay away from those Chinese cheap ones and I know a lot of people have used www.raxles.com, I don't know if they make Infiniti ones though. But, they rebuild axles using OEM parts.
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