Wasn't there a TBS out for the vibration? Something related to the rotor or something, can't find the link. Anyone know?

 

yeah, but it has nothing to do with the vibration decribed int his thread.

That tsb was for vibration during braking

 

I did not get the problem fixed, I decided to live with it except its getting worse. The rough operation of the engine along with the vibrant felt on my legs is getting even more annoying, I almost hate driving my car now. I am going to take it in one more time, my warranty (56k miles) is almost up which is why I am going to try again.

I suspect its one of the engine mounts or even the tranny mounts, perhaps even the heat shield. Too bad the dealers dont think so.

 

your car seems to be misfiring. bad spark plug or maybe a bad coil

 

If its misfiring then wouldnt it trigger the check engine light? Sadly, I am hoping it would trigger the check engine light one of these days so that I can finally figure out the problem. I am hoping it happens before I hit 60k miles.

 

My Car seems to have fixed itself somehow...maybe becuz of the hot weather? o.O...
its just how it felt when I first drove off the dealers lot... these cars have a mind of their own I tell ya !!

 

Jiggs1219, what grade of gas are you using?
Also, @ that mileage, you may wanna have the dealer clean the injectors & change the spark plugs.

(or just put in some Techron fuel injector cleaner)

 

I always use 93 for gas. I will try the fuel injector cleaner. What is the simplest way to test your engine/tranny mounts? It does not vibrate at idle in the hot weather, I do not feel any jerks when driving or when switching from Park to Drive or Reverse to Park, etc.

 

The olde school method is to have someone switch the gears for your (R,N,D) and for you to watch the engine move to see if "moves too much", but that seems very relative to what you may consider as "too much".

I'd have to agree with the mechanic, it's higly unlikely that your engine/tranny mounts would be shot after only 3 years. They DO usually become hard (and thefore absorb less vibrations), but not until a good 8 years.



Sounds like you just need that 60K service/tune-up

 

Im having the same problem with my G. 56k the first time i took it in they found a leak in the plenum spacer that got replaced under warranty. The car was running a little more smoother but it still shakes when stoped at a red light it seems when the rpms go under 600 the car feel like it will turn off.


2007 g35S 5at, Stillen exaust, 3 gen intake, pulley, ground kit, aftermarket fog, cross drilled rotors.

 

let me know what upgrade part u get

 

It could be just time for a tuneup (oil, plugs, clean injectors, clean TB etc).

But, you also admitted you hit something hard enough to break your bottom plastic cover.

Start with those obvious things first. The tuneup is a good idea either way.

 

My local mechanic cut a piece of the plastic cover off since it was hanging. I was trying to figure out whether that has any thing to do with the vibration. I can have my mechanic just completely remove that cover, I just dont want to do that and find out that it had nothing to do with the vibration. Is this cover even necessary or is it just additional protection?

 

I'm sorry, but i don't see how the plastic cover to cause NVH-like vibration.

I bet if ou take it off, you won't see it affect the vibration in ANY way.
I think someone's making excuses not to do a tune-up (:P)

 

heres a few links you can look at and see if it relates to you. as i have been troubleshooting a problem that is starting to become VERY COMMON amongst VQ35HR owners.

my350z.com/sputtering during warm up

my350z.com/gremlin from hell


best cliffs notes i can give you is.....it occurs after the car has sat for a while(cold start). 2 minutes or so into the drive it begins to spit and sputter, shift horribly slow and abrupt, loose most throttle response, loose 50% of power, ugly exhaust sound, and its jerky. BUT it does tend to clear up once fully warmed up at around 3-4minutes. i have looked at exhaust cam sensors/solenoids/connections/grounds/o2 sensors/maf sensors/throttle body cleaning/idle air relearn/throttle learning/exhaust cam learning/air filters/tranny fluid/brake fluid/associated sensors and gotten no positive results.

best theory i have gotten from another source is about a common problem in some of the 2000+ maximas. they had an internal issue on the throttle body and it messed with the throttle body function as it goes from "warm up" mode to "operational temp" mode.

after reading the previous post about this "new part". the transmission temp sensor sounds like a really good theory too!