ATTN those who are using the stock speaker wire from the BLOSE amp to the front doors using an aftermarket amp and new components.

To those who have done this, which output wires did you use for the passive crossover that comes with the components?

I just took the wires coming from the stock 6.5" in the door and wired those into the crossover leaving the tweeter wires as is as well as the "splitter" harness which i'm assuming splits the output for both tweeter and midbass.

I am not sure if there is any type of passive x-over along the line from my Alpine amp to the door. The tweeter has a x-over right on it.

I wish I had my digicam with me.
The harness on the door that I'm assuming splits the speaker wire up to the tweeter and midbass, there are 3 red wires and 2 green wires coming out of it. What is the extra red wire for?

Is the Green wire + and the Red -

I made my spacers last night and only had time to get the passenger side done. I would like to start tuning the system tonight and don't want to get hung up again figuring out if the line is already x-over'd.

Thanks a lot,
Jay

 

I tapped into the line that the midbass was previously connected to and ran that to the crossover, which was subsequently split for my comps. The other speaker connector, up near the top of the door just under the black trim panel, was left unused, just as you've done.

 

So that line is high-passed or anything? I didn't notice a x-over on the factory midbass, I'll have to look again.

 

Can anyone Verify this?

*** EDIT ***

Then I read this:
<- Stupid

 

found this
https://g35driver.com/forums/attachm...2&d=1129310139

It appears green is positive and red is neg. Just tap them b4 that connector.

 

Yeah I was suprised, too. Thought I was missing something, but plugged in my comps to test and had full range, even though I figured there'd be a high low-pass filter to keep the tweet frequencies out of the midbass....glad to see you found other posts to confirm it.

 

Just looking at what's in front of you should have confirmed it, honestly.

I've never seen a passive crossover lowpassing a speaker in any OEM audio system. The mids always either run wild on the top end, or have a dedicated channel with an active lowpass. Series inductors are costly and heavy and also ahve serious insertion loss, and OEM amps can't afford to lose any of their 18 precious watts, so they don't have any of that.

That's what OEM audio systems have in common with rack systems.

 

el duderino- so your saying the stock bose woofer input can hook right into the input on a passive crossover for a new set of components?

 

Still learning. First vehicle I've owned with comps as part of the OEM setup. I'll know better next time.

 

Yup. The woofer gets a full range signal.

 

Thanks.

BTW: Do you guys think the stock BOSE wiring can handle 150 watts rms?

 

yes