I have the standard Non-Bose sedan. To my ears, it definitely sounds better than the "Premium" Bose system, but I am wondering how much better it would sound with aftermarket. I'm not into rib-flexing bass or anything, but value detail and clarity. I'm considering the Infinity Reference 6012i 2-ways in each door.

Questions: For those with the non-bose that have upgraded the speakers only.

1. How difficult was it to remove the door panels?
2. Did you notice any more vibration, buzzing afterwards?
3. If you installed 2-ways in the 6 1/2" spot, is the signal full range or is there a low pass between the head unit and the speaker somewhere?
4. Was there an improvement over OEM?

I am pretty happy with the OEM system as I think it sounds damn good for stock and people have told me so. But I always wonder what I am missing, but dont want to go through the install to have no improvement or have it sound worse.

 

I don't have the non-Blose system, but I have some answers:

1. Search and you will find a thread with pics that someone posted on how to remove the door panels. You start by popping the plastic fasteners on the bottom and unscrewing the screw behind the door handle...

2. Speakers that will handle higher RMS power and have greater aural range and fidelity will potentially bring about higher instances of buzzing/rattling. Look into sound deadeners. Plenty of threads you can rifle through to decide what you need.

3. This depends on the rest of your system. If you don't have the 6x9s like the Blose systems or a sub, you probably don't need to setup a filter. Add in a sub and you will need to setup a low pass filter to filter out the low frequencies on your fronts. You also have coax rears that could potentially be bridged? to power a weak sub. The Blose comes with a separate amp in the trunk, not sure how the non-Blose is setup. If you are running off the HU, you will need to see which configurations the HU supports. Nevertheless, if you are not experienced in doing this kind of work, consult a MECP certified professional installer. DIY on forum threads is a recipe for disaster if you don't know what you are doing.

Good Luck!

 

I have the non-bose. There is no amps after the H.U., so you can use a LOC to convert 2 of the stock channels into RCAs. If you get a good quality LOC and connect it's RCAs directly into the amp (instead of converting the channels right behind the H.U. and running RCAs all the way to the amp) you shouldn't get feedback. I used a JL Audio LOC, ran it to a JL amp and ran Diamond Audio components off the amp. It sounds suuuper clear, doesn't distort but does create rattles if you don't sound deaden it somehow. I used eDead from the get go and it solved the rattles.

The H.U. is putting out full range, no other low pass or high pass filters to deal with.
For reals if you want to upgrade your G's stereo with aftermarket components, it is a blessing that you got the non-blose, it's soo much easier to upgrade IMO.

The door panels aren't difficult if you have experience doing this before. If you don't then I wouldn't take the chance of doing it yourself. You can scratch, break, or ruin small components of the door panel.
Infintity speakers are nice, but for the money I would look at other brands as well to compare. Rainbow Audio, Diamond, Focal, etc. If your an audio enthusiest and love clean sound, do it right the first time and be done with it. Hope this helps.

 

How do you know if the nonbose HU is putting out the full range? Have you seen the output on an RTA? I've been dying to know this.

 

Thanks for the replies. Sounds like it's worth the time and effort to go the whole way with the separate amp though.

 

Yes, signal is flat and full range. I had mine tested before I did a speaker/amp upgrade. I can pursue the link from my installer (el_duderino) if you want to see pics.

 

Could you? I've seen him post results for a Bose HU before the amp and it was pretty flat, but I have never seen anything for a non-Bose HU on the Nissan/Infiniti. This would give me a much more clearer direction in where I want to take my system.

 

My bad. I am an idiot. I have the Bose unit and realized too late this thread was for the non-Bose.

 

From what I understand, the bose and non-bose systems use the same head unit. The difference is in the bose amp and speakers.

 

FWIW here is the link to post which has some info on the Bose HU output. The post also has a link to pics of the measurements el_duderino took.

https://g35driver.com/forums/showpos...08&postcount=1

 

I believe that's true, but since the non-bose has the amp built-in, I'm suspecting that some equalization is being done and if that's the case, there's no way to bypass that like one the bose system.

It's really frustrating cuz when I turn my stereo beyond 14, the bass doesn't get any louder. Only the mids and highs do, and that's why I'm thinking equalization is being done.

And I wish I had $1300 bucks just lying around. I'd pick up that DD headunit, AC control and the JDM aluminum console frame that someone here is parting out. *sigh*

 

I don't have charts to prove it is full range, but I don't notice any cutoffs that would suggest it's equalized, but I could be wrong. Mine seems nice and flat.

 

Maybe put out the feeler for someone's "deluxe" Bose unit that they have replaced? You might want to get some actual measurements to confirm though. Everyone was swearing up and down the "deluxe" HU had EQ. After testing, it proved to be pretty insignificant.

 

Since the Bose head units apparently put out a line level signal (since no one has measured the output voltage of the non-bose) you might be better off getting a used Bose head unit from someone on this forum for cheap. A lot of people don't want them after they get a DD system.

 

I thought about that but I also saw somewhere on this forum that said the connectors behind the HU for the Bose and Non-Bose were completely different.