Alright guys...I'm confused...
#1
04-10-2007, 10:06 PM
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Alright guys...I'm confused...
Recently I had a JL Audio 500/1 channel amp installed into my car with a 13.5" W6. It run to the stock head unit so I am unable to control the amount of bass that I get.
Heres where the problem starts. Today I had a JL Audio Remote Bass controller installed. I thought that this controlled the amount of bass that I wanted, on any level. Instead it only turns the bass on very low, or when I turn the dial slightly to increse the bass it amplifies the bass to the max. Now, I thought it was a progression of increased bass as I turned the dial.
Is this what the remote bass controller should do, amplify the bass in a progression as I turn the dial?
This is very hard to word and I hope you understand what I'm talking about.
Heres where the problem starts. Today I had a JL Audio Remote Bass controller installed. I thought that this controlled the amount of bass that I wanted, on any level. Instead it only turns the bass on very low, or when I turn the dial slightly to increse the bass it amplifies the bass to the max. Now, I thought it was a progression of increased bass as I turned the dial.
Is this what the remote bass controller should do, amplify the bass in a progression as I turn the dial?
This is very hard to word and I hope you understand what I'm talking about.
Last edited by bizzzrak; 04-10-2007 at 10:08 PM.
#2
04-11-2007, 12:21 AM
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#3
04-11-2007, 09:22 PM
Verify the settings on the amp. There was a thread not too long ago mentioning something similar to this on JL amps i think, some funky setting. Personally, I'd tend to think that the gain was set way too high.
Bass boost just amps the signal at a certain frequency. (EDIT: and yes should be done in a smooth progression if it is an smooth turning dial). So if your sub is already plenty loud at a good volume, bass boost will just be distorting that frequency range when it kicks in to amp it over the normal volume of the rest of your signal. I'd set the bass boost dial to about 80%, and the sub gain to 0. Put in a track that has some punchy bass to it, not booming tracks like rap, etc. Get the volume (of the radio) to almost as loud as you'd want it on freeway speeds, then start cranking up the sub gain till the bass matches the music/your comfort level. Now leave it alone.
You'll be able to turn the bass boost down for the boomier tracks, which will usually sound big anyways, but be able to crank it up for the tracks that need a little help. Since you had it at 80%, you'll have a little headroom. Just be wary of over extending your speakers.
Bass boost just amps the signal at a certain frequency. (EDIT: and yes should be done in a smooth progression if it is an smooth turning dial). So if your sub is already plenty loud at a good volume, bass boost will just be distorting that frequency range when it kicks in to amp it over the normal volume of the rest of your signal. I'd set the bass boost dial to about 80%, and the sub gain to 0. Put in a track that has some punchy bass to it, not booming tracks like rap, etc. Get the volume (of the radio) to almost as loud as you'd want it on freeway speeds, then start cranking up the sub gain till the bass matches the music/your comfort level. Now leave it alone.
You'll be able to turn the bass boost down for the boomier tracks, which will usually sound big anyways, but be able to crank it up for the tracks that need a little help. Since you had it at 80%, you'll have a little headroom. Just be wary of over extending your speakers.
Last edited by Glycerine; 04-11-2007 at 09:37 PM.
#4
04-11-2007, 09:41 PM
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#5
04-12-2007, 07:11 PM
Originally Posted by Glycerine
Verify the settings on the amp. There was a thread not too long ago mentioning something similar to this on JL amps i think, some funky setting. Personally, I'd tend to think that the gain was set way too high.
Bass boost just amps the signal at a certain frequency. (EDIT: and yes should be done in a smooth progression if it is an smooth turning dial). So if your sub is already plenty loud at a good volume, bass boost will just be distorting that frequency range when it kicks in to amp it over the normal volume of the rest of your signal. I'd set the bass boost dial to about 80%, and the sub gain to 0. Put in a track that has some punchy bass to it, not booming tracks like rap, etc. Get the volume (of the radio) to almost as loud as you'd want it on freeway speeds, then start cranking up the sub gain till the bass matches the music/your comfort level. Now leave it alone.
You'll be able to turn the bass boost down for the boomier tracks, which will usually sound big anyways, but be able to crank it up for the tracks that need a little help. Since you had it at 80%, you'll have a little headroom. Just be wary of over extending your speakers.
Bass boost just amps the signal at a certain frequency. (EDIT: and yes should be done in a smooth progression if it is an smooth turning dial). So if your sub is already plenty loud at a good volume, bass boost will just be distorting that frequency range when it kicks in to amp it over the normal volume of the rest of your signal. I'd set the bass boost dial to about 80%, and the sub gain to 0. Put in a track that has some punchy bass to it, not booming tracks like rap, etc. Get the volume (of the radio) to almost as loud as you'd want it on freeway speeds, then start cranking up the sub gain till the bass matches the music/your comfort level. Now leave it alone.
You'll be able to turn the bass boost down for the boomier tracks, which will usually sound big anyways, but be able to crank it up for the tracks that need a little help. Since you had it at 80%, you'll have a little headroom. Just be wary of over extending your speakers.
I don't think thats what he is looking for.
The JL amps take the RBC1 directly in to it. The problem with that is that it is just a bass booster. What I am hearing is that you want to be able to control the level of bass you are receiving. What you need is a LC1. This is a level control that is made by PAC. Tweeter/ Sound Advice carries it. ( I work for them) Tell your installer and sales person that is what u want. This will allow you to 0 bass to full bass.
Keep us posted.
#6
04-12-2007, 09:39 PM
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Yes, yes exactly. I'll keep you posted. But my next question is that my sub sounds sloppy and late, what might make this problem occur? Faulty wiring?
And does Tweeter/Sound Advice have a policy where they can take back and install like this one for example. Because when I agreed to have this installed to my knowledge it was to control the bass, like your telling me. Not have a bass booster.
And does Tweeter/Sound Advice have a policy where they can take back and install like this one for example. Because when I agreed to have this installed to my knowledge it was to control the bass, like your telling me. Not have a bass booster.
Last edited by bizzzrak; 04-12-2007 at 10:54 PM.
#7
04-14-2007, 05:23 PM
miswiring can cause that, assuming the w6 you have is DVC. I've fixed a lot of systems with ill wired DVCs or multiple subs and it sounds just like that. While that's a likely culprit, some cases were due to improper power handling, and i'm not sure what exactly that bass boost could be doing to your sytem.
I'd take it back to whomever installed it. You can probably pop the sub out and fix the wiring yourself (if indeed that's the case), but i'd take it back to them to do as you're going there anyways to have the other module done. Tho personally, i would also pop it out first anyways and draw out how they have it wired and/or take a pic. That way you'd know if it was miswired or if it's another problem.
As for the bass boost vs the remote crossover/remote gain whichever it is, depends on if you asked them specifically for that part #. If you did, they installed what you told them and did their job. Just be nice and ask if you can swap it out for the other, and pay the difference. You'll most likely pay labor again as well.
If you told them clearly what you wanted and asked them if that was it, or they pointed you there, then you have some room to negotiate, even if you signed off on it before. Be polite but tell them it doesn't function as you had anticipated and stated at install, and restate what you wanted. Mention the device BB said above and ask it that's it. Ask if they have one setup somewhere so you can be sure. If it's more expensive, pay the difference, but i wouldn't pay labor for the second install unless it's significantly harder/different than the first install, and even then i'd want a discount at least equal to the amount you paid before
Just don't be d ick about it unless called for 
I'd take it back to whomever installed it. You can probably pop the sub out and fix the wiring yourself (if indeed that's the case), but i'd take it back to them to do as you're going there anyways to have the other module done. Tho personally, i would also pop it out first anyways and draw out how they have it wired and/or take a pic. That way you'd know if it was miswired or if it's another problem.
As for the bass boost vs the remote crossover/remote gain whichever it is, depends on if you asked them specifically for that part #. If you did, they installed what you told them and did their job. Just be nice and ask if you can swap it out for the other, and pay the difference. You'll most likely pay labor again as well.
If you told them clearly what you wanted and asked them if that was it, or they pointed you there, then you have some room to negotiate, even if you signed off on it before. Be polite but tell them it doesn't function as you had anticipated and stated at install, and restate what you wanted. Mention the device BB said above and ask it that's it. Ask if they have one setup somewhere so you can be sure. If it's more expensive, pay the difference, but i wouldn't pay labor for the second install unless it's significantly harder/different than the first install, and even then i'd want a discount at least equal to the amount you paid before
Just don't be d ick about it unless called for
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