Line Driver???
#1
Line Driver???
well here we go. i have a kenwood amp and an alpine 10" subwoofer that should shake the house down, but with everything installed but the sub is extremely quiet. I havent sealed the box yet so im assuming i dont have exactly to spec air and ports, but i got a 500/1500 W sub, so im assuming it should shake the trunk somewhat...
my amp is running off the Speaker Level Input's... its a 1000 W amp 500RMS @ 2 Ohms...
Do i need a Line Driver? Is it needed? I have the kenwood amp that has the Speaker Level Input's but this seems to be my problem with the HU only putting out a little voltage. I have my settings turned ALL THE WAY UP, and its vibrating a little, but not making much noise at all...
WHATS WRONG???
my amp is running off the Speaker Level Input's... its a 1000 W amp 500RMS @ 2 Ohms...
Do i need a Line Driver? Is it needed? I have the kenwood amp that has the Speaker Level Input's but this seems to be my problem with the HU only putting out a little voltage. I have my settings turned ALL THE WAY UP, and its vibrating a little, but not making much noise at all...
WHATS WRONG???
#2
#3
Is it safe to assume that your amplifier has speaker level inputs? If it does of even if it doesn't, make sure that the input signal polarity (+ and -) is correct for each left and right channel. If your input polarity is out of phase or + and - are opposite from each other left to right, this would cause your low output. This is easy to check, just take one input channel of your amp, say the left and flip the wires + - to - + and see what that sounds like.
#4
Originally Posted by topgun_g35
Is it safe to assume that your amplifier has speaker level inputs? If it does of even if it doesn't, make sure that the input signal polarity (+ and -) is correct for each left and right channel. If your input polarity is out of phase or + and - are opposite from each other left to right, this would cause your low output. This is easy to check, just take one input channel of your amp, say the left and flip the wires + - to - + and see what that sounds like.
this sounds dangerous. ill double check the speaker wire colors... but im pretty sure i got it right. maybe im expecting too much out of a 500W sub... ill get a hi/low converter and we'll see if that fixes the problem...
#5
Originally Posted by 06g35meister
this sounds dangerous. ill double check the speaker wire colors... but im pretty sure i got it right. maybe im expecting too much out of a 500W sub... ill get a hi/low converter and we'll see if that fixes the problem...
#6
I've had this happen twice and I don't know why I always forget what the problem was.
It was the fact that the amp had a poor ground. I could get the amp to turn on fine but the sub would either have no sound or very little. Make sure the amp ground is connected to bare, clean metal. Might as well take a wire brush to the ground point (it couldn't hurt) then reconnect the ground wire.
It was the fact that the amp had a poor ground. I could get the amp to turn on fine but the sub would either have no sound or very little. Make sure the amp ground is connected to bare, clean metal. Might as well take a wire brush to the ground point (it couldn't hurt) then reconnect the ground wire.
#7
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#8
Originally Posted by xraycat
I've had this happen twice and I don't know why I always forget what the problem was.
It was the fact that the amp had a poor ground. I could get the amp to turn on fine but the sub would either have no sound or very little. Make sure the amp ground is connected to bare, clean metal. Might as well take a wire brush to the ground point (it couldn't hurt) then reconnect the ground wire.
It was the fact that the amp had a poor ground. I could get the amp to turn on fine but the sub would either have no sound or very little. Make sure the amp ground is connected to bare, clean metal. Might as well take a wire brush to the ground point (it couldn't hurt) then reconnect the ground wire.
An extremely good point... i did just screw it into a spot i thought was clear... ill brush it away and see what happens!.
#9
We put a line driver on my set up & it made a HUGE difference!
I am using the Memphis 16-VBF1 line driver. it was around $85. It has a little indicator that shows how many volts the signal you are using has and I was barely getting one volt. the line driver can boost that to up to 9 volts. you can adjust how much you want to boost it just like you adjust the gain on your amp.
I am using the Memphis 16-VBF1 line driver. it was around $85. It has a little indicator that shows how many volts the signal you are using has and I was barely getting one volt. the line driver can boost that to up to 9 volts. you can adjust how much you want to boost it just like you adjust the gain on your amp.
#11
Originally Posted by 06g35meister
so do i need a LOC or a Line driver???
If you have done everything correctly and you have the non-Bose system, speaker level inputs should be plenty and you won't need a line driver. The speaker level inputs of the amp already have an LOC built into them to drop the signal level.
Have you adjusted the gains?
Last edited by Gilley; 01-03-2008 at 12:40 PM.
#12
Originally Posted by Gilley
From your post, I assume you have the non-Bose system. where are you connecting to the stock system to get the audio signal from your amp.
If you have done everything correctly and you have the non-Bose system, speaker level inputs should be plenty and you won't need a line driver. The speaker level inputs of the amp already have an LOC built into them to drop the signal level.
Have you adjusted the gains?
If you have done everything correctly and you have the non-Bose system, speaker level inputs should be plenty and you won't need a line driver. The speaker level inputs of the amp already have an LOC built into them to drop the signal level.
Have you adjusted the gains?
Bass Boost (1-18dB)
LPF (50-200)
Input Sensitivity (5-.2)
i have set it to 18, 100, .2 respectively and the sub is barely vibrating...
#14
Where did you connect to the OEM harness to get the signal? Was it before it reaches the Bose amp? If you followed these instructions, https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-video-electronics/101293-diy-add-sub-your-bose-equipped-g35-coupe.html, then you have a low level signal going into your Kenwood amp (the signal out of the Bose HU is low level prior to entering the Bose amp). So you need to cut an RCA cable, splice ont of the cut ends into the audio signal from the OEM harness, and plug it into the Kenwood amp. The way you have it connected (low level signal into the speaker level inputs) your amp is stepping down the signal even more.
Looking at your amp, the sensitivity is the gain control. Adjust it after you send the signal to the amp through the RCA jack.
Looking at your amp, the sensitivity is the gain control. Adjust it after you send the signal to the amp through the RCA jack.
#15
Originally Posted by Gilley
Where did you connect to the OEM harness to get the signal? Was it before it reaches the Bose amp? If you followed these instructions, https://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101293, then you have a low level signal going into your Kenwood amp (the signal out of the Bose HU is low level prior to entering the Bose amp). So you need to cut an RCA cable, splice ont of the cut ends into the audio signal from the OEM harness, and plug it into the Kenwood amp. The way you have it connected (low level signal into the speaker level inputs) your amp is stepping down the signal even more.
Looking at your amp, the sensitivity is the gain control. Adjust it after you send the signal to the amp through the RCA jack.
Looking at your amp, the sensitivity is the gain control. Adjust it after you send the signal to the amp through the RCA jack.
thank you so much, ill try this and see if it works, will the + and - work either way once i splice?