What can be the possible scenarios for this problem?
1: protection light comes on anytime the bass hits hard
2: amp gets really hot
3: amp will stay on as long as I dont turn the volume up more than 2/5ths of the way


Im thinking its on its last leg, and its time for a new amp

 

Either of these:

1. Your gains are set inappropriately (too high)
2. Bass boost is on
3. You have your subs wired at a lower impedence than sub can handle.

To solve this, you need to properly set your gains. JL audio's website has a pretty good tutorial.

Bass boost only boosts a specific frequency, usually around 45 Hz and it's a horrible way to EQ since you can't adjust the slope, basically, if you don't have your bass boost set to max before setting your gains, you can easily clip the amplifier.

Also check the impedence on your subs and what the lowest impedence you can run the amp at.

It could very well be the amp itself and be poorly made. One of my oldschool RF 500a2 amps took bass boost and full gain at 1 ohm when it i was either 2 or 4 ohm rated, beast of an amp...some amps are, some amps are not.

 

the amp and subs are set at on a 4 ohm load. the I dont have the gain turned up anymore than a lil pass 1/4 but before 1/2 way. as for the Frequency, Im not sure. Because it was working fine for almost a month, then suddenly this starts happening, and I didnt change anything.

 

Odd problem if it started recently. Double check your connections, make sure the ground has not come loose. Other than that I'm stumped since you said it was fine before.

 

I checked all the wiring. I think the amp is just on its last leg. Shopping for a new one right now

 

if you can trace back your rcas see if they're pinched anywhere

 

i have 1000/1 Jl amp and it gets really hot i dunno which amp ur using but with that much wattage getting hot its what it should do and if it gets hot and ur amp shuts down on and off then HUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM!!!!

 

Actually, it shouldn't get it hot, because either a) there is a problem with the amp primarily because gains are too high or you're pushing it too much, or b) the heat sink is crap and cooling on the amp is horrible.

Before my Zapcos and PDX amps, I had an RF T30001bd. Before that I had a Kicker ZX 2500.1. Kicker does optimum power output of 2500w @ 2 ohms while the RF did 3,000w @ 1 ohm. The Kicker got EXTREMELY hot, as if I was driving around in 120 degree weather constantly. If I put my hand on it for more than a second, I'd get a nice burn. With the RF, playing for a good half an hour and bumping non stop at full tilt, I could rest my hand on the amp for quite some time. The RF had MUCH better cooling. It's sort of like a PC or any other device or product that involves heat for that matter. The hotter the temperatures, the worse it's going to perform. And the cooler, the more it will perform closer to its optimum.

 

well, i bought a new PPI amp today, and when I installed it, I had the same problem. and all my wiring is correct, so I think its my Battery that is all a mess. So Im getting a Yellow top this weekend, unless I can get a deep cycle battery for the same pricing

 

Look into the Odyssey PC 1200. It's a small battery that will easily fit as a replacement, but dont let the size fool you, it's one heck of a battery.

I don't really think the battery would be the problem. A simple test is to check the voltage on it and see what it's reading. Take it to Autozone for a free check. Have them check your alternator while you are at it. Sometimes it is best to just pull everything out and rewire and inspect all wires and connections. I wouldn't go spending hundreds of dollars assuming what the problem is. I'd rather find out and then fix because it could save you money.

 

I replaced my battery anyways since it was corroding, and It still did the same thing. So this is what I did to test my problems..

1: redid my ground
2: checked for any frayed wires on my power, ground, and remote wires (none found)
3: Tried to jump my remote directly to the power wire, (no change)
4: connected the PPI amp with no sub attached just to see if it powered up (wouldnt say on)(think I just had a bad connection)
5: hooked the Rockford amp up, and it stays on but would cut out when the bass hit
6: Today, I had the stereo going, and unplugged the RCA's and it didnt cut out. Not sure if its because it wasnt getting a signal so it had nothing to respond to, or if the RCA's are jacked up and causing the problem

 

What amp has the problem?
And what is your definition of "hot"
"This feels very warm to the touch" or "I can't keep my hand on it" hot

 

well, I put my ROckford 200.2 back in, and it gets so hot I cant touch it.

 

I wouldn't go based on how how the amp is running. Some amps cool better than others. My RF 500a2, although was quite a solid amp, got very hot, much hotter than my T30001bd. I recommend doing something VERY simple. Rather than taking everything out and verifying, etc. try going the simple route.

Get a set of RCA's, I know Fry's electronics has some good ones for $6 for 20 ft. or something like that. Don't get anything that is real cheap, but something inexpensive enough that would work. Run that connection to the amp and run your power, ground and remote wires as you normally would. Hook it up to the speaker or sub (whichever) and see if you notice any difference.

It might very well be the RCA's. I'd also try out a different speaker or sub as a second option. Don't install the RCA's, just run them through the car laying around, this will save time and if it fixes the situation, then you know your problem. If it doesn't, then at least you didnt spend extra time taking out the old RCA's and putting new ones in.

 

I was actually gonna try that today, but ran out of time to hit up Best Buy or Fry's. Its the only thing left that I can think of. I dont think its the sub, because when the amp does turn on, the sub works for that moment, then everything shuts off.